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Old January 27th, 2011, 06:26 AM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hosejockey4506 View Post
how does extra oil add oil pressure
It gives you a higher oil level while at any operating condition. The higher the oil, the less likely you are to uncover the pickup tube. When you pull air, you lose pressure.

While at low rpm operation there is between 4.5 and 3 quarts in the pan for a 6 quart system. At high rpm operation there is right around but not much more than 2 at any given time.

A Z06 during 5-7k rpm track operation has 1.2 quarts in the tank.

The new camaro has an 8 quart capacity and the new dry sump systems have a "band aid" fix.

It's common to run the engine and trans a quart over full.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:38 AM   #182
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Originally Posted by fabricator View Post
after looking over all of the parts, i told becky i would post up a list of the parts needed to get this going.

1. crankshaft spacer
2. intake gaskets
3. wiring harness
4. computer flash
5. headers
6. exhaust system
7. engine oil dipstick and tube
8. trans dipstick and tube
9. trans shifter
10. radiator
11. radiator hoses
12. trans cooler
13. transmission lines
14. fuel system - fuel pump, lines,fittings, ect.
15. egr tube block off plate
16. some kind of gauges
17. trans torque converter cover
18. mass air sensor
19. throttle position sensor
20. idle air motor
21. air cleaner assembly
22. driveshafts
23. front axle 1350 yoke
24. rear axle 1350 yoke
25. t-case front output 1350 yoke

pretty big list and it doesn't include all the little stuff like oil, transfluid, antifreeze. not to mention the current engine issue and i'm sure i am forgetting some stuff.
Have you planned out the cooling system completely, yet? I'm trying to figure out mine, now. Need to figure out where the steam port lines are going, and if I'm using a surge tank or not...
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:51 AM   #183
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Have you planned out the cooling system completely, yet? I'm trying to figure out mine, now. Need to figure out where the steam port lines are going, and if I'm using a surge tank or not...
What is the purpose of the steam ports?
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Old January 27th, 2011, 11:06 AM   #184
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What is the purpose of the steam ports?
pressure release in the heads to prevent steam pockets building up.

Lots of info here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...&highlight=ls1
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Old January 27th, 2011, 11:20 AM   #185
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Use a surge tank. Plumbs into front heater port line on the water pump. Steam port lines can go to surge tank or preferably the top of the rad tank. Needs to go up hill and be on the pressure side of the system.




Had a brain fart on what line was what.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 11:23 AM   #186
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when the harness gets done he can wire it to use her gauges she has in the jeep already.(why i left her computer there with the gauges still plugged in)so no need to buy new gauges.there is many pages of this info in the 5.3 thread on pirate.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 11:26 AM   #187
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Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
Use a surge tank. Plumbs into front heater port line on the water pump. Steam port lines can go to surge tank or preferably the top of the rad tank. Needs to go up hill and be on the pressure side of the system.




Had a brain fart on what line was what.

When you say needs to go uphill... you mean the surge tank should be the highest point on the system, and is on the pressure side, correct?

The steam lines don't need to go uphill specifically, and are preferred to be on a low pressure side, right?
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Old January 27th, 2011, 11:31 AM   #188
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Originally Posted by liv2mx View Post
when the harness gets done he can wire it to use her gauges she has in the jeep already.(why i left her computer there with the gauges still plugged in)so no need to buy new gauges.there is many pages of this info in the 5.3 thread on pirate.

The only caution I have with this, is how well you trust stock gages. Stockers are designed to look nice, and keep the driver feeling like everything is right.

So, say oil pressure, we filter that input, and make it look like its in the middle and all is well. Per the OEM's direction, we don't make it move too much, and when it does move, its done very very slowly.

Same with the temp gage. We will get calibrations from the OEM that make it so that center point on the temp gage, it might be anything between 190-220 it'll sit right in the center.

The OEMs doesn't like the public to see 'unfiltered' gage data.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 11:50 AM   #189
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Idiot gauges, Ford has been doing it on some trucks for near 20 years..
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Old January 27th, 2011, 11:51 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
When you say needs to go uphill... you mean the surge tank should be the highest point on the system, and is on the pressure side, correct?

The steam lines don't need to go uphill specifically, and are preferred to be on a low pressure side, right?
Vent lines from the head, either rear or front depending on how the engine is angled in the vehicle (Corvette is at rear because engine is angled nose down, 0.45*, Trucks are at front as engine angle is around 6*, rear down) are all on the high pressure side of the system. Some people however vent from all 4 points just to be safe. The overflow tank is a pressurized tank with a pressure cap. Radiator cap never comes off anymore.
Pressurized overflow tank should always be higher than the radiator. Think of it a a extension of your radiator top tank.
Essentially you are bleeding the water/steam off the top of the cylinder heads constantly. That's a reason they are in the 2.0 mm range. They are the fittings that are bolted to the head near the intake port at the corners of each head. Sometimes the unused ports at the back of the heads are riveted shut.
j-kb8ymf

Last edited by kb8ymf; January 27th, 2011 at 12:00 PM.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 02:53 PM   #191
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Originally Posted by jeepbrattt View Post
Motor was cleaned out last night and leakdown test done, passed with flying colors, not as bad as it looked when intake came off.......moving on
good deal!
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Old January 27th, 2011, 03:13 PM   #192
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Motor was cleaned out last night and leakdown test done, passed with flying colors, not as bad as it looked when intake came off.......moving on
Great to hear!
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Old January 27th, 2011, 06:06 PM   #193
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Great to hear Becky. A couple other things from this discussion....

Extra quart of oil sounds good but I have heard in the past that too much oil creates a froth problem. True or no?

Steam port. Mine is piped into my radiator just below my pressure side of the cap. My overflow tank is still the original plastic jeep tank that is not pressurized nor higher than the radiator. So far, (3 years) no problem.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 07:30 PM   #194
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Steam port. Mine is piped into my radiator just below my pressure side of the cap. My overflow tank is still the original plastic jeep tank that is not pressurized nor higher than the radiator. So far, (3 years) no problem.
Mine has been capped for a year, haven't noticed anything bad
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Old January 27th, 2011, 08:31 PM   #195
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If you want to see how your harness will look from Jim's, I just got mine back today. A few pics here:

Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest - View Single Post - Refurbishing my Scrambler...
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Old January 29th, 2011, 05:27 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Extra quart of oil sounds good but I have heard in the past that too much oil creates a froth problem. True or no?

Steam port. Mine is piped into my radiator just below my pressure side of the cap. My overflow tank is still the original plastic jeep tank that is not pressurized nor higher than the radiator. So far, (3 years) no problem.
Too much oil is too much... While the engine is on the level is about an inch to an inch and a half below the crank shaft deflector/windage tray. One quart gets spread out over a large area so it doesnt raise the level much. Too much oil and it'll get splashed around by the crank shaft and get air in it; bad. Not enough oil and the pickup tube gets uncovered too easily and pulls air; worse than too much oil. The other downside to not enough oil is the dwell time in the pan where it needs to cool and seperate the air. The same thing applies in a transmission, too much and the rotating parts get restriction and frothy oil, not enough and you lose pressure on the clutches.

It is a balancing act and 1 quart is about all you can safely get away with.


Overflow tanks dont matter, all it does is push and pull air and coolant as needed. A surge tank is an active part of the system and it is the vent and fill point so if it isnt the highest (or even) point in the system then it will not remove air from the other points and filling from there wouldnt get all the air out.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 07:25 AM   #197
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While we are still on the oil/oil-pan debate I found this over at LS1tech; good stuff.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...-oil-pans.html
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Old January 30th, 2011, 09:25 AM   #198
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Wow, over 3" difference in my truck pan and an F body pan.
I don't remember who said it on here, but the F-body pan is about flush with the transmission pan; big difference.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 11:49 AM   #199
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It all depends on what trans you have. There's about a 2" different between a th350 to a th400 and another inch and a half to a 6L80.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 01:25 PM   #200
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was looking for a oil cooler block off plate. didn't think they would be that hard to find. maybe a dealer only item? anyone have one?
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