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Old June 22nd, 2011, 10:32 PM   #481
RockSolid Perf.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle M. View Post
We will see, I have a little time to think on it. You guys might have me sold, might have to throw another T shirt in on it or something, lol



How is the steering when welded?
we can get another shirt

steering when welded with no assist or hydro =
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Old June 23rd, 2011, 05:50 AM   #482
feva4u
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Full hydro ftw. Do it once.........
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Old June 23rd, 2011, 09:12 AM   #483
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Old June 23rd, 2011, 09:30 AM   #484
Kyle M.
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When the money comes, sure or maybe a hydro assist??



Here is a picture of my drive flanges I got from Rocksolid Performance.



Gotta love walking in, pay for it (great price I might add) and walking out with sweet parts.
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Old June 25th, 2011, 04:07 PM   #485
Kyle M.
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Got my axles tore down, just gotta degrease them, cut off brackets and paint them. Hope I get my gears soon so I can get doing that too.

The 60


the 14 bolt I am using, cleaner housing


All of my mess


The C6, think it is a short housing, adaptor measures about 6" long, is that good or bad?


My 5.0 sitting on the stand ready to swap, just need a flywheel, oil filter relocator kit and maybe a starter, not sure if they are all the same or not.


Hope this ECU still works, don't really want to have to buy a new one, might anyway, this one is for a 5 speed and I will be running an auto.


The gears I took out, 60 on left, 14 bolt on right


14 bolt gears compared to my 8.8 gears, looks tiny!


Oh, and I scrapped the mustang body, here it is on the trailer


Getting removed

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Old June 25th, 2011, 04:26 PM   #486
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The prob with the short tailshaft and a 205 is you cannot run the double joint style shaft at the tcase end. Not enough clearance to the transmission.

Fwiw this is the style I am running.
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Old June 25th, 2011, 04:30 PM   #487
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Why not pull the cover off the ecm and check the board to see if its damaged at all.
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Old June 25th, 2011, 05:09 PM   #488
Kyle M.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
The prob with the short tailshaft and a 205 is you cannot run the double joint style shaft at the tcase end. Not enough clearance to the transmission.

Fwiw this is the style I am running.
Would clocking the case help at all? I want to clock it up so I can flat bottom the truck and put a skid on it.

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Why not pull the cover off the ecm and check the board to see if its damaged at all.
Good question, guess I will do that. Lol
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Old June 26th, 2011, 11:55 AM   #489
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Nice, one tons and what tire size ?
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Old June 26th, 2011, 03:43 PM   #490
Kyle M.
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Really depends on what I find a deal on, but I would like 40" to 42"
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Old June 28th, 2011, 01:49 PM   #491
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Alright, a thought I am having.....With the direction and timing I am headed, I am thinking about running my current tires till I am ready to get/afford what I want. Issue is, they are 15" and I know they wont fit well on the 60 front end. I know I will have to grind to fit a low backspace wheel, but I was wondering if anyone had more insite on this. I know some of you have done this. I don't want to spend a ton on rims either, any pointers in that area either? Maybe re center my current rims and beadlocks?
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Old June 28th, 2011, 01:52 PM   #492
Fullsize4life
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2in of back spacing will clear with out grinding. 2.5in will clear with just a little bit of grinding. This is all true.
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Old June 28th, 2011, 09:35 PM   #493
Kyle M.
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How about recentering my current wheels? Where can I buy centers? Do they have to be rim specific?
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Old June 29th, 2011, 09:36 AM   #494
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I would call MadMac and see if he can burn you some. Or anyone with a laser jet could burn you some.
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Old June 29th, 2011, 10:11 AM   #495
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Quote:
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Maybe re center my current rims and beadlocks?

kinda depends if youre keeping'em long term and what you want to spend to make it happen.

i ran 15" allieds on my yj with a cucv D60, i got away with minimal spacers and a bit of grinding. like fullsize said 2" is a pretty safe bet but mocking it up with actual parts is the only way to know for sure whats required. mine was pretty wide in the end (too wide for me) it was getting into bodywork and hanging off the sides of the trailer - no issues off camber though

recentering is cleaner but it can be kind of a wash between the two as far as effort and money goes -
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Old June 29th, 2011, 11:17 PM   #496
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y are you switching a manual trans for a auto? Just curious lol
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Old June 30th, 2011, 05:44 AM   #497
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I ran 15" rims on my 60. I converted to 5 on 5.5 and used Chevy half ton calipers.
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Old June 30th, 2011, 06:20 AM   #498
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But kyle has a 14 bolt, Kyle what would be your plan on that? Jim aren't your running a fancy 9"?
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Old June 30th, 2011, 08:00 AM   #499
Fullsize4life
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Jim has a high 9. yes he is a high roller.
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Old June 30th, 2011, 08:35 AM   #500
Kyle M.
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Quote:
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recentering is cleaner but it can be kind of a wash between the two as far as effort and money goes -
Not when the wheels you are recentering are beadlocks, that would be my only benefit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jroberts#77 View Post
y are you switching a manual trans for a auto? Just curious lol
Because wheeling where I wheel an auto will be more fun. I seem to burn my clutch a lot and starting and stopping on hills suck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
I ran 15" rims on my 60. I converted to 5 on 5.5 and used Chevy half ton calipers.
Yeah, I have a 14 bolt and I looked at it and it seems the only way I could convert that is if I used screw in studs and opened up the inside of the wheel and turned down the hub.....I don't think it would work with my full float.

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But kyle has a 14 bolt, Kyle what would be your plan on that? Jim aren't your running a fancy 9"?
Not sure what you are refering to.
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