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Old February 21st, 2013, 07:37 PM   #2021
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Old February 25th, 2013, 08:14 PM   #2022
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Went wheeling, blew the cv yoke and part of the driveshaft on the front again. I think the problem with the 1310 stuff, the yokes are smaller and weaker and since I don't plan on going easy on it.... I'm gonna invest some cash, up it to a 1350 joint, run a flange on the t case and get a superduty cv front shaft or something similar...let's just hope I can make it all fit.





On a side note, truck ran great, lots of power, no real issues, I'm happy. Just think I need a limiter now, it revs out quick.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 08:29 PM   #2023
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Moving up to that 1350 joint seems like your best option. Going to be a fun project for sure, but more than worth it.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 10:38 PM   #2024
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Look for the e250 and e350, they have the flange on the axle.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 05:35 AM   #2025
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Rear 60?
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Old February 26th, 2013, 05:57 AM   #2026
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looking for superduty parts!
Call this guy, had TONS of crap for FORD SD's hes where i got my Superduty 60 front.
616-889-9035

not sure about the van parts though..

Sure he has shafts, and such that youd need.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 08:42 AM   #2027
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Kyle,

I run the 1330 Ford CV in the front of my truggy and haven't had any breakage so far. Ford used the 1330 CV joint in many older trucks and FS broncos, so finding them cheap is quite easy to do. FWIW, the only u-joint failure I did have was a 1350 in the rear shaft.

From the pics it looks like you are breaking them from binding. The 1330 had the same width cross (3.625) as the 1350 but uses smaller diameter caps instead of the 1350 with 1.188. The combination of the wider joint without the larger cap diameter with give you some extra clearance with the yokes and help with the binding. If you were breaking the cross all the time then the 1350 would be a definite must, but it seems you are breaking yokes and the joint is collateral damage.

I wouldn't be surprised that the CTOR members have enough extra parts laying around that you could swap to 1330 for next to nothing. I have a couple extra 1330 cv yokes for 32 spline tcases, you are welcome to have one if you want. I may have a shaft as well but not 100% sure on that.

Joint specs
1310 Ford : 1.063 and 1.125 caps / 3.218" wide
1330 Ford : 1.063 and 1.125 caps / 3.625" wide
1350 Spicer : 1.188 caps / 3.625 wide
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Old February 26th, 2013, 09:00 AM   #2028
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Rear 60?
Yes
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Old February 26th, 2013, 09:36 AM   #2029
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Originally Posted by big86inthestixx View Post
looking for superduty parts!
Call this guy, had TONS of crap for FORD SD's hes where i got my Superduty 60 front.
616-889-9035

not sure about the van parts though..

Sure he has shafts, and such that youd need.
Will do, thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblockford79 View Post
Kyle,

I run the 1330 Ford CV in the front of my truggy and haven't had any breakage so far. Ford used the 1330 CV joint in many older trucks and FS broncos, so finding them cheap is quite easy to do. FWIW, the only u-joint failure I did have was a 1350 in the rear shaft.

From the pics it looks like you are breaking them from binding. The 1330 had the same width cross (3.625) as the 1350 but uses smaller diameter caps instead of the 1350 with 1.188. The combination of the wider joint without the larger cap diameter with give you some extra clearance with the yokes and help with the binding. If you were breaking the cross all the time then the 1350 would be a definite must, but it seems you are breaking yokes and the joint is collateral damage.

I wouldn't be surprised that the CTOR members have enough extra parts laying around that you could swap to 1330 for next to nothing. I have a couple extra 1330 cv yokes for 32 spline tcases, you are welcome to have one if you want. I may have a shaft as well but not 100% sure on that.

Joint specs
1310 Ford : 1.063 and 1.125 caps / 3.218" wide
1330 Ford : 1.063 and 1.125 caps / 3.625" wide
1350 Spicer : 1.188 caps / 3.625 wide
From my inspection, I see no rubbing going on, at full droop the shaft spun so I don't think there was binding. In the past, yes, but now I don't think so. I haven't had a single joint failure yet either. I think this time it just broke.

If you have extra parts around, I'd gladly grab them from you, not positive on what I am doing yet, just that I have to do something.

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Yes
Thanks!
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Old February 26th, 2013, 08:15 PM   #2030
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Any other thoughts or opinions?

1330, 1350, cv, non cv, flange vs yoke?

What gonna be the best for my driving style?
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Old February 26th, 2013, 08:58 PM   #2031
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Imho..
Id do 1330 cv with a flange, and a 1350 at the axle.
But thats only my .02$..
Id think thatd hold up wondermuffleous..

Sended frum da cumputar box in my hands eh.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 09:10 PM   #2032
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Or just say f it and make room for 1410s on both ends.

Sended frum da cumputar box in my hands eh.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 09:11 PM   #2033
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1410 u bolt style yoke

same size caps of a 1350 but you can get more angle out of it
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Old February 26th, 2013, 09:25 PM   #2034
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Only problem with a bigger joint is less room. I'm limited on space, c6 205 clocked, so a non cv 1410 if I could fit it and get enough angle out of it. My front drive shaft is short, like 25" joint to joint so it gets pretty angled as it moves.

I want this to be a final upgrade.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 09:47 PM   #2035
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Kyle, when I was looking for a rear shaft for my rig, I made a call to Tom Woods to see about a BAMF jointed shaft. After I gave him my c to c distance and the amount of drop I needed, the guy I talked to recommended using an xj front shaft. He told me to hog it out with a die grinder, but that it would give me the angles I needed. I know you are not going to run the same shaft, but perhaps one of the guys there would be able to give you an idea of what your issue is and what you can do to fix it. I know there are a lot of guys here that have tons of experience, but they might be able to give a little bit more...
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Old February 27th, 2013, 09:33 AM   #2036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle M. View Post
I want this to be a final upgrade.
I'm very sure this isn't your final vehicle so I don't know that it'll be the final upgrade

300M 1480 joints with unobtainium 45 spline slip and .5" wall 4" OD heat treated chromoly.......................or find what's actually causing it to break, then fix it.
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Old February 27th, 2013, 09:38 AM   #2037
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Originally Posted by feva4u View Post
I'm very sure this isn't your final vehicle so I don't know that it'll be the final upgrade

300M 1480 joints with unobtainium 45 spline slip and .5" wall 4" OD heat treated chromoly.......................or find what's actually causing it to break, then fix it.

Wouldn't that be Kyle's right foot? Or, the guy next to him sayin' "you can make it".
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Old February 27th, 2013, 09:45 AM   #2038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feva4u View Post
I'm very sure this isn't your final vehicle so I don't know that it'll be the final upgrade

300M 1480 joints with unobtainium 45 spline slip and .5" wall 4" OD heat treated chromoly.......................or find what's actually causing it to break, then fix it.
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Wouldn't that be Kyle's right foot? Or, the guy next to him sayin' "you can make it".
What this guys says


I have broke it 2 times due to binding, one was right after I put it together orginally. The last time at snofari was the second bind breakage. The other Yoke I borke was because I had it widdled out too much....this time, it just broke.

I have broke yokes 4 times now.

I just would like something to hold up more than one season.
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Old February 27th, 2013, 09:46 AM   #2039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBird View Post
Kyle, when I was looking for a rear shaft for my rig, I made a call to Tom Woods to see about a BAMF jointed shaft. After I gave him my c to c distance and the amount of drop I needed, the guy I talked to recommended using an xj front shaft. He told me to hog it out with a die grinder, but that it would give me the angles I needed. I know you are not going to run the same shaft, but perhaps one of the guys there would be able to give you an idea of what your issue is and what you can do to fix it. I know there are a lot of guys here that have tons of experience, but they might be able to give a little bit more...
I may have to call a pro sometime, but I don't have a budget to buy a custom built one yet.
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Old February 27th, 2013, 09:56 AM   #2040
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I may have to call a pro sometime, but I don't have a budget to buy a custom built one yet.
I understand budget, they may just recommend something like they did for me...
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