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Old November 6th, 2010, 05:58 AM   #1
John D
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Default Narrowed 9" Question

So I am narrowing this 9" rear for the XJ and I cannot find the answer to what others have done. Just doing some rough measurments it looks like the center section is offset 2" to the passenger side and the pinion is offset about another ~1" to the passenger side ~3" total offset to the right side from the factory with the same length axles.

So, when you narrowed your's did you cut off the same from each side leaving the offset? Or did you cut one side different from the other and have two different length axles?

It seems like the Jeep would tolerate the offset with the u-joints in the driveshaft but would it be better to leave the offset?

What's the name of a shop in the Grand Rapids area that can cut, turn down the flange and reweld for me?

Thanks,
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Old November 6th, 2010, 06:36 AM   #2
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How wide of an axle are you wanting? There is so many applications for a 9" that there is probably one the right width from the factory.

I did narrow one on just the one side to use a Early bronco 9" shaft and centered the pinion up nicely was like 2.5" shorter roughly.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 06:42 AM   #3
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It's an F100 9" and my plan was to narrow it 5" to fit under the XJ. Originally I was going narrow 2.5" per side, but when I was measuring yesterday I noticed the offset.

Last edited by John D; November 6th, 2010 at 06:49 AM.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 06:47 AM   #4
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Just buy a Early Bronco 9" then and sell the one you have. It is close to the width you want.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 09:28 AM   #5
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You need to center the pinion yoke with the driveshaft for best results.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 09:49 AM   #6
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or leave it the width it is, and run a rim with alot of backspacing.
thats what i would do.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 09:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuggets View Post
You need to center the pinion yoke with the driveshaft for best results.
This is what I am thinking needs to be done.

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Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
or leave it the width it is, and run a rim with alot of backspacing.
thats what i would do.
Not really an option for me. I already have the front narrowed and I have my wheels.

Is there a minimum that can be taken off a 9" when narrowing? In my situation I am thinking 1" and 4" (or 1.5" and 3.5") for my total of 5".
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Old November 6th, 2010, 12:15 PM   #8
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I have equal length shafts in my YJ, and I did the same in Stan's Jeep. People run 8.8's in jeeps all the time with nearly the same pinion offset (2-3/16). It's not a problem. My wife's XJ doesn't vibe at all with an 8.8 and a cv shaft, nor did my YJ back in the day.

I'd recommend either finding a bronco 9" housing (different length shafts,) or buying a spidertraxs housing and adding semi float ends (Ballistic Fab.) I cut down a housing, then trussed it, and now I really wish I would have just ran a spidertrax housing in the rear.

The nice part about the bronco housing is Superior makes a double hardened shaft for it (evolution) which is going to be your strongest shaft anywhere near that price range. Anything custom cut and not re-heat treated will have less strength. I run one length of the Superior Bronco evo shafts on both sides of my narrowed axle. But ordering them that way was a fluke that may not be repeatable.
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Last edited by Monkeyevil; November 6th, 2010 at 12:18 PM.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 01:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyevil View Post
I have equal length shafts in my YJ, and I did the same in Stan's Jeep. People run 8.8's in jeeps all the time with nearly the same pinion offset (2-3/16). It's not a problem. My wife's XJ doesn't vibe at all with an 8.8 and a cv shaft, nor did my YJ back in the day.

I'd recommend either finding a bronco 9" housing (different length shafts,) or buying a spidertraxs housing and adding semi float ends (Ballistic Fab.) I cut down a housing, then trussed it, and now I really wish I would have just ran a spidertrax housing in the rear.

The nice part about the bronco housing is Superior makes a double hardened shaft for it (evolution) which is going to be your strongest shaft anywhere near that price range. Anything custom cut and not re-heat treated will have less strength. I run one length of the Superior Bronco evo shafts on both sides of my narrowed axle. But ordering them that way was a fluke that may not be repeatable.
Thanks for the advice, this housing is really my only option at this point. With the dough I have into 35 spline Detroit 3rd Member and chromos already along with the D44 front that is almost ready I just don't have another 600-800 to stick into a housing. Moser will narrow it for $125 to whatever I want, and I can do the trussing/shaving myself. My axles are cut-to-length and I haven't cut yet.

So my question really boils down to centering the center or keeping it offset. I need to cut both sides for it to work for me so it's no more work either way. Just a question of which will be better.

Offset with equal length shafts or centered with different length shafts? Also, I plan to go no bigger than 35" tires and I have a 5.3L. I don't see breaking a shaft as very likely.

BTW, recognize the Jeep in my Avatar? You guys did the exo cage and rear doors for me a couple years ago. Thanks again.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 03:51 PM   #10
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If you want to run equal length shafts you have to tolerate the compound driveshaft angle. If you are going to be pounding it, I still recommend centering the pinion. I will say that I had a pretty good compound angle on my Metro rear driveshaft and I never had any issues with it at all. The Metro was an offroad only rig so the compound angle didn't effect it much.



This is the 9 inch I cut down for my Honda project. I opted to center the pinion and live with the pumpkin being off center. I plan on beating the piss out of this car so I wanted the driveshaft to be straight.


Last edited by Nuggets; November 6th, 2010 at 03:55 PM.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 03:59 PM   #11
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You should have talked to me before you did anythig. My 44 and 9 would be ready for you to weld on link ends and bolt under.
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Old November 10th, 2010, 10:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John D View Post
BTW, recognize the Jeep in my Avatar? You guys did the exo cage and rear doors for me a couple years ago. Thanks again.
No problem!
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Old November 11th, 2010, 04:36 AM   #13
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I decided to center the pinion. Should be getting it back from Moser tomorrow. I needed it 5" narrower so I had them take 4" off one side and 1" off the other. Now its on to trussing and shaving. Thanks for helping me talk my way through it.
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Old November 14th, 2010, 08:26 AM   #14
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I don't thik I have seen anyone address this yet. Where do I put my drain plug after I do this? I have some ideas, just curious what others have done.

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Old November 14th, 2010, 09:00 AM   #15
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On my toyota I took the lowest 3rd member bolt and drilled and tapped it for a bigger bolt and just used it for the drain plug instead of using a stud. you can't get all teh fluid out but it is a simple option.
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Old November 16th, 2010, 05:20 AM   #16
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I found this little spot that seems protected (as protected as can be on rocks). Drilled and tapped to a 3/8" pipe and I will get a plug with a teflon seal.


Last edited by John D; November 16th, 2010 at 08:22 AM.
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Old November 16th, 2010, 08:13 AM   #17
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Subscribed! Keeping 5x5.5?
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Old November 16th, 2010, 08:21 AM   #18
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Subscribed! Keeping 5x5.5?
Of course! I will do a whole thing when it's all done.
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Old November 16th, 2010, 04:20 PM   #19
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You can clear a 9 that much? I am not very familial with them, yet. Look forward to more info..
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Old November 16th, 2010, 05:55 PM   #20
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You can clear a 9 that much?
Yeah, there is still 3/8" between my plate and the ring gear so you could go even more.
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