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Old December 6th, 2005, 09:32 AM   #1
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Default Poop Pipe Info!

OK, since I do work on my truck with pipe, thought I'd post a little info.


Pipe is Pipe and Tube is Tube, they are different.

Tube is measured by outside diameter and wall thickness.
Pipe is 'measured' by inside diameter and schedule (wall thickness)

However, pipe is still a standard OD, and the ID varies based on the schedule. So for a 1-1/4" pipe, the OD is 1.66". Schedule 80 would have a smaller ID than Schedule 40...etc..

There's a lot of misinfo about pipe, people thinking its brittle, weak, etc. Not really true. There are a lot of different types of pipe, just like there are lots of types of tube. So getting the right material, no matter what you do, is the key to getting strong material. You will find plenty of circle track cars with pipe-built roll cages, which are going to have higher impact forces than on most any 4x4.


There are lots of types of pipe out there. Going to the home depot and buying a 10 chunk of pipe you don't know what you are getting, and its propably crap. Some types of pipe might be butt welded, so there are butt seams in the pipe that may be weak. Some types might be a weaker iron that leads people to think of the pipes being brittle.


A common one used in building cages is ASTM A53 type S grade B.

This is a carbon steel pipe, with a yield strength of 35,000 psi, and tensile strength of 60,000 psi.


I personally use ASTM A500 grade B, which is a carbon steel pipe known as structural tubing. The A500 standard actually covers both rounds and shapes such as sqaure tubing, and is often what you are buying when you buy square & rectangle tube. It is known as tubing although the rounds are available in pipe sizes. It is specifically designed for use in structural applications, and not going to be brittle or weak like people think. Min yield strength is 42,000 psi, tensile strength is 58,000 psi.



For most roll bars, bumpers, sliders, etc, 1-1/4" schedule 40 makes a nice size. That is a 1.66" OD, with a wall thickness of 0.140". Currently, a 21 ft stick of A500b 1-1/4" sch 40 runs about $35 at Pontiac Steel.

I am using 2-1/2" sch 40 for my rear driveshaft, as well.
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Old December 6th, 2005, 09:40 AM   #2
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Nominal Pipe Size OD Nominal Pipe Sizes Wall Thickness

--------O.D.-----Sch. 5 Sch. 10 Sch. 40 Sch. 80 Sch. 160 XXS

1/4"---0.540----N/A----.065-----.088-----.119-----N/A-----N/A--
3/8"---0.675----N/A----.065-----.091-----.126-----N/A-----N/A--
1/2"---0.840----.065---.083-----.109-----.147-----.187-----.294-
3/4"---1.050----.065---.083-----.113-----.154-----.218-----.308-
1"-----1.315----.065---.109-----.133-----.179-----.250-----.358-
1-1/4"-1.660----.065---.109-----.140-----.191-----.250-----.382-
1-1/2"-1.900----.065---.109-----.145-----.200-----.281-----.400-
2"-----2.375----.066---.109-----.164-----.218-----.343-----.436-
2-1/2"-2.875----.083---.120-----.203-----.276-----.375-----.552-
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Old June 15th, 2006, 02:03 PM   #3
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How do you poop down a 1-1/4" pipe?
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Old June 15th, 2006, 02:53 PM   #4
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Play-doh fun factory..
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Old June 15th, 2006, 03:31 PM   #5
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So what you are saying is the right pipe and a cheap harbor freight pipe bender could be a cheap solution for someone that wants to do some tube fenders, bumper, etc... on the cheap?
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Old June 15th, 2006, 03:34 PM   #6
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yes i believe that is what he is sayin
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Old June 15th, 2006, 04:12 PM   #7
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Yup.. Funny, I posted this info 6 months ago..not sure why the joke was made today..


But, yes, proper graded pipe is quite strong. If you take your time, you can get some good results.

Not as nice as a bender, but I can get close to 90* bends pretty well. All of the tube work on my truck is done with it.

The bender looks like this:



So, you can see here, when I did the main hoop, you can do fairly complex parts




Its actually easier, IMO with a pipe bender than a tube bender, to get your piece correct, because the center of the bend stays at the center of the die, instead of the camming action of a real bender, where its 'grabbed' and 'pulled' around the die. On a real bender, you need to learn where the reference points will end up after you bend a piece.


BTW, the pics, thats 1-1/4" Sch 40 A500 grade B, so thats 1.66" OD with a 0.140" wall, which is stronger than the usual mild steel HREW 1-5/8" 0.120" wall that most people use.
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Old June 16th, 2006, 01:35 AM   #8
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where do u buy ur pipe (sry if you already said it but i didnt see it)
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Old June 16th, 2006, 08:39 AM   #9
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Pontiac Steel
479 University Dr
Pontiac MI
248-858-2350

Usually about $35 for a 21 ft stick with two flame cuts.
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Old June 16th, 2006, 10:03 PM   #10
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How about welding? Pretty much the same strength as welding other mild steel?
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Old June 19th, 2006, 01:06 PM   #11
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what size die did you use for that pipe
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Old June 19th, 2006, 01:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschaffer66
How about welding? Pretty much the same strength as welding other mild steel?
Yes, its mild steel structural rated tubing, in pipe sizes.


Again, there is lots of types of pipe, just like lots of types of tube.


What I used in those pictures is carbon steel, not cast iron or anything.
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Old June 19th, 2006, 01:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junk90xj
what size die did you use for that pipe

I realize this might be shocking... but I used the 1-1/4" pipe die for the 1-1/4" pipe.
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Old June 19th, 2006, 01:40 PM   #14
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any pictures of a complete 90 degree bend? was thinking of building tube(pipe) fenders with one of these if possible.
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Old June 19th, 2006, 01:53 PM   #15
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I used sched.40 for my front fenders and the HF bender did a 90 bend just fine IMO.
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Old June 19th, 2006, 01:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevsCJ7
I used sched.40 for my front fenders and the HF bender did a 90 bend just fine IMO.

sweet, any pictures?
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Old June 19th, 2006, 03:12 PM   #17
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I'll try and get some tonight.
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Old June 20th, 2006, 09:30 AM   #18
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Heres some pics.
Not sure if they'll help or not.

Last edited by kevsCJ7; November 21st, 2010 at 05:40 PM.
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Old September 26th, 2006, 06:57 AM   #19
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Haggar,

What were the dimensions of your main hoop? I would like to copy it but don't want to mess with all the damn prep work that any normal human would have to do, like measuring.
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Old September 26th, 2006, 08:51 AM   #20
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Dunno, I just measured, transfered the measurements in chalk to the garage floor, and fabbed it.

Considering I have a 2nd gen xtra cab on a 1st gen frame with modified body mounts and an indeterminant amount of body lift, I'd just measure your own truck and see.
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