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Old November 3rd, 2010, 03:44 PM   #1
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Default Chevy Axle replacement Problems

I'm sure this is a simple question for someone who knows but I am trying to be careful with this. I have a 96 K1500 ext. cab short box and I recently wasted my rear axle out of it. Is it possible to bolt in swap out an older 3.73 6 lug axle in or do I need to find one from a full vortec. I have ask quite a few people and its about 50/50 some of the guys are telling me bolt in good to go as long is it is between an 88 and a 99, the others are telling me the perch angles are a few degrees off and its just enough to eat drive shafts. Can somebody please help me and give me some guidance on this. Its my daily driver and I am tired of it being a lawn ornament. On a side note anyone got one laying in there back yard I could drag out for a little bit of nothing
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 04:28 PM   #2
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any axle from a 88-99 k1500 will work,
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 04:53 PM   #3
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Is that from personal experience? Now, as a second part am I further ahead going that way and swapping in another axle or should I shell a good one and put the internals in mine. I know there are shims behind that pinion to set the spacing which was is going to make more sense. I know its only a couple hour project to swap a good one in. I'm just trying to figure out which is going to be the most efficient in the long run until I can get in to full out swaps and lift work, because that is an eventual goal.
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 07:10 PM   #4
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What does "wasted my rear axle out of it" mean? Most likely, putting the internals out of of another one in it isn't going to work with out a master install kit and someone that knows how to set up gears.
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 07:31 PM   #5
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The ring gear set is floating the left side carrier is gone i pulled about 90% of the bearing material from the housing. The pinion looks like someone did some creative grinding on it but the ring looks halfway decent and the spiders look fine. I haven't pulled the assembly yet to check out the end of the shafts. I wanted to get some knowledge from people that know before I spent the time to do it if i am just going to be further ahead to swap it out with a known good one.
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 07:45 PM   #6
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gears and rebuild is a fast way to fix it
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tube bending and gear installs pm me for info! gears installed for $150 and up per axle.
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 07:55 PM   #7
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If you don't want to learn a lot about differential setup swap a whole assembly in. If you don't care about clunks and howls swap the guts. To setup gears correctly and the time and tools involved would outway the cost of a used axle in my opinion.
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 07:57 PM   #8
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if you know someone to help you do it then its not bad
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 08:24 PM   #9
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The help part is what makes this difficult with the gear setting. I work in an auto parts and I have had a few of my installer customers offer to help me with the swap, but when I bring up an internals swap they all say they have the tools to do it but dont know how many times it will take us to get it right. I appreciate the input guys. I think I am just going to work on finding an axle to swap in and go in that direction with it. I know I can do that on my own
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 08:31 PM   #10
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Look in the parts for sale here - there's a semi-floating 14B 6-lug from a 91 that might work.
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 08:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Is that from personal experience? Now, as a second part am I further ahead going that way and swapping in another axle or should I shell a good one and put the internals in mine. I know there are shims behind that pinion to set the spacing which was is going to make more sense. I know its only a couple hour project to swap a good one in. I'm just trying to figure out which is going to be the most efficient in the long run until I can get in to full out swaps and lift work, because that is an eventual goal.
yes thats from experiences,if its your first time doing a gear set up it will take a little longer but most learning experiences do,one trick to speed install
is get a 2nd inner pinon bearing and hone out the center so it is sung on the pinon this way u dont have to press the bearing off to change pinon depth
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 11:23 PM   #12
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I might will just swap in 14b semi floater with 6 lugs and not look back. If it got broke (stock 10b), it might will again later anyway.
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Old November 3rd, 2010, 11:50 PM   #13
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I am thinking that is what I am going to do I eventually want to put some lift on it. I already have the motor for it just need to go through and re enforce the rest of the drive line. I appreciate all the advice guys thanks
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Old November 4th, 2010, 01:42 AM   #14
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The cheap 'n easy way to do it is swap in a whole other axle. 88-98 will bolt in, the same body style Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon will work too (but they have bigger brakes).

The six-lug 14 bolt axle from the same body style truck is a great swap and will be a bolt in deal (aside from a conversion driveshaft u-joint), just make sure its from a 4wd truck as the 2wd ones are a couple inches narrower.
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Old November 5th, 2010, 01:07 PM   #15
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I didn't realize this was going to be so hard to find an axle for this. I'm glad I to the time to re-read this and do some research a guy was going to give me an axle to get it back on the road but 90 suburbans are the old style still. The search continues.....
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Old November 5th, 2010, 02:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I didn't realize this was going to be so hard to find an axle for this. I'm glad I to the time to re-read this and do some research a guy was going to give me an axle to get it back on the road but 90 suburbans are the old style still. The search continues.....

that oughta work fine. if the axle is off a couple of degreese just cut the perches off (carefully) and reweld them on. ive done it several times without troubles.
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Old November 6th, 2010, 05:27 PM   #17
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Shims?
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