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Old March 18th, 2014, 02:39 PM   #401
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Anybody ever use boat fuel fillers on their rigs? I'm thinking about something like this:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

I'm recessing my fuel cell into the floor and will have it covered. I'd like to get the filler and vent out of the cab to reduce likelihood of fumes. I'm thinking about a stock style filler on the tub, but the stock one won't fit. I could put this right up against the tube flare where it'd be unlikely to get damaged.

So is there any issue with running a filler like this on a Jeep?
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Old March 18th, 2014, 02:45 PM   #402
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shouldn't be a problem.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 08:15 PM   #403
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good idea. I need to do something with mine. either something like that or a fast fill kit
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Old March 18th, 2014, 09:15 PM   #404
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good idea. I need to do something with mine. either something like that or a fast fill kit
For all the sweet races you are winning?
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Old March 18th, 2014, 09:32 PM   #405
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For all the sweet races you are winning?
no, fuck nugget. so I can fill my tank without having to open my soft top and tailgate to fill my tank. and to help remove fumes from fill up inside the vehicle.

but thanks for reminding me that I did enter 1 race last year. which I won.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 09:58 PM   #406
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You got a lot of never talking to me like that
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Old March 18th, 2014, 10:02 PM   #407
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You got a lot of never talking to me like that
You can't make him never, he's not afraid of you.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 10:24 PM   #408
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Old March 18th, 2014, 10:58 PM   #409
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good idea. I need to do something with mine. either something like that or a fast fill kit
I had originally planned on doing a cool radius "gusset" tube basically where the rear upper shock mounts wound up, with a plate with a dimple die on the passenger side and a fast fill on the driver side. I eliminated it for a few reasons. First, I didn't wanna have to unzip the window to get gas. I don't plan to run the top often, but I'm sure it'll happen enough to be annoying. Second, I decided it looks cleaner without tube and plate there so I don't wanna go that route. I was gonna run the filler in top of the cell like it comes from the get-go, but that's not ideal either. Fumes, difficult to fill with cargo back there, etc. The factory filler is too big to fit in the area I'll have behind the tube flare, so I need smaller. Fast fill kits aren't any smaller so I thought of the boat option....I think I'll go for it. I wish it weren't plastic, but the size, angle, and orientation are correct, and it'll be pretty well protected by the tube.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 11:13 PM   #410
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Started on the front sway bar tonight:


I'm not thrilled with where I had to put it, but I didn't have any other decent options. The steering box takes up the whole frame rail, and I'll be keeping the bumper as tight as possible to the front of the box. On top would make it stick WAY up so that wasn't a good option either. It'll work, and should look better once I get the bumper in place. Good news is, the bar will help protect the steering box and will be a perfect place to mount a brace to.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:32 AM   #411
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Suspension is done now, just gotta add limit straps, various gussets, and finish weld it all. Now on to the next hundred small projects on it....
Ride height:


Droop:


Bump:


Tight clearance at full lock, but it fits:

Any higher and the links would be too short and I'd worry about inverting at full droop. Any lower and they'd be below the steering and very exposed to rocks.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 07:36 PM   #412
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looks good. iv never had good luck with that steering setup, how do you keep it from twisting up and down?
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 07:42 PM   #413
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Mine twisted too but never seemed to hurt anything.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 07:44 PM   #414
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yea but gives sloppy feel in steering, and if you hit something real hard it will loosen the jam nut.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 08:00 PM   #415
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if you hit something real hard
Only hit soft things.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 08:11 PM   #416
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even medium hard things would do it
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 08:19 PM   #417
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Only hit soft things.
That's what I did.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:19 PM   #418
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You can rotate the TRE's on the tie rod in opposite directions, that helps a little bit with slop. Also could make some sort of poly or delrin "bushing" that goes between the knuckle and rubber boot to take up any slop. I just rotated mine, seems to work ok.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:33 PM   #419
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You can rotate the TRE's on the tie rod in opposite directions, that helps a little bit with slop. Also could make some sort of poly or delrin "bushing" that goes between the knuckle and rubber boot to take up any slop. I just rotated mine, seems to work ok.
I haven't run it before either, but it was the best option at the height and geometry I'm working with. I plan on running the spacers mentioned above to eliminate/minimize rotation. If I have issues with the jam nuts loosening up I'll tack weld them....not like I'll be adjusting them regularly once it's dialed in.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:43 PM   #420
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Only hit soft things.
I only wheel pillows and mattresses

I take it a high steer arm would interfere with stuff... even if you. Had it bolt to the underside of an angled one
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