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Old March 13th, 2014, 09:44 PM   #381
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I didn't know Great Lake had that style bracket for ford. I previously had one that looked like that from a guy that was selling them on ebay, I think it was hard-on off-road. When I sold that axle and got new brackets, I got them from Virginia 4x4 on pirate. I did modify them a bit to fit bigger pads, but they seem to work with the stock 1/2-ton pads just fine with no mods. The mod was to open them up into a similar shape to the ruff stuff rear brackets where it is more of a U shape.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...onversion.html

We also run the same style prop valve you show. We also setup two ball valves, one per circuit. If we have a failure we can shut down the failed circuit and still have good pedal on the opposite circuit. It was a trick we picked up from AlumCJ on his racer. It also works good as a line lock for digs, or to set a 4 wheel park brake when winching.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 09:57 PM   #382
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I saw a few other companies with similar brackets that I wasn't a huge fan of, but I think GLO's kit is fairly new. I'll be ordering it pretty soon here. I've gotten a few other things from them that I was happy with so I'll gladly give them a shot again.

I think I'll steal your ball valve idea too. I'll probably put them in the engine compartment though, I don't think in cab would be much benefit in my case.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 06:11 AM   #383
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We also setup two ball valves, one per circuit. If we have a failure we can shut down the failed circuit and still have good pedal on the opposite circuit. It was a trick we picked up from AlumCJ on his racer. It also works good as a line lock for digs, or to set a 4 wheel park brake when winching.
I like this with one exception. After setting both brakes as a parking break IF YOU FORGET TO TURN THEM BACK on, you have zero brakes. I think it's smarter to only set one circuit and leave the other live. (starting to roll down outer limits with no breaks was a tad bit scary )
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Old March 14th, 2014, 07:03 AM   #384
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I like this with one exception. After setting both brakes as a parking break IF YOU FORGET TO TURN THEM BACK on, you have zero brakes. I think it's smarter to only set one circuit and leave the other live. (starting to roll down outer limits with no breaks was a tad bit scary )
Agreed, I placed mine on the rear circuit only. Mainly for a parking aid, but also for a line lock option.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 07:27 AM   #385
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I like this with one exception. After setting both brakes as a parking break IF YOU FORGET TO TURN THEM BACK on, you have zero brakes. I think it's smarter to only set one circuit and leave the other live. (starting to roll down outer limits with no breaks was a tad bit scary )
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Old March 14th, 2014, 07:42 AM   #386
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The parking brake setup I'm planning to run should do the job for all that stuff too, it just uses a separate master cylinder instead of a manual valve. I like that it hooks up to the factory e-brake lever. Just gotta decide it I want another valve in there to lock out the front or rear in case of a broken line.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 07:42 AM   #387
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Agreed, I placed mine on the rear circuit only. Mainly for a parking aid, but also for a line lock option.
Having them on front and rear is a good thing for the reasons John pointed out. I just recommend using only one for a parking brake.
If you are doing a fresh piping job, take the time to do it.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 08:35 AM   #388
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Having them on front and rear is a good thing for the reasons John pointed out. I just recommend using only one for a parking brake.
If you are doing a fresh piping job, take the time to do it.
I don't see the concern you have being an issue. If you lock the brakes with the pedal and then close the valves, the brakes will be locked. You won't be able move until you open the valves again. Once the valves are open the brakes will work like normal. If you were to close both valves when the brakes aren't applied, then you'd have no brakes....but I don't know why you'd ever do that.

And yes, I'm doing all new lines and doing it right. I don't like halfassing anything, let alone brakes.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 08:50 AM   #389
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I don't see the concern you have being an issue. If you lock the brakes with the pedal and then close the valves, the brakes will be locked. You won't be able move until you open the valves again. Once the valves are open the brakes will work like normal. If you were to close both valves when the brakes aren't applied, then you'd have no brakes....but I don't know why you'd ever do that.

And yes, I'm doing all new lines and doing it right. I don't like halfassing anything, let alone brakes.
In theory you are correct. But here's what happened in the real world. Going down Outer Limits @ KOH, John stripped his pitman arm. We chocked it with rocks and applied the brakes as discussed, and then welded up the pitman arm. Once finished, I jumped in to drive it down the rest of the obstacle. The chock rocks were removed and I put it in gear, forgetting to unlock the brake valves. Apparently the brakes had softened up enough that they could not hold back the torque of the motor in low range, so I started to roll down hill uncontrolled. I applied the brakes hard enough that I blew out one of the lines.

How it happened versus theory, I can't explain. I just know John needed to wipe his seat before he sat back in it.

I know it doesn't look like much of a drop but when you don't have brakes....


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Old March 14th, 2014, 09:06 AM   #390
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Probably because ball valves under that kind of pressure won't perfectly seal and will bleed off pressure over time. I agree, not a good situation, but also not likely to happen with a competent driver

Either way, if I get the valves I don't intend to use them as a parking brake, just an emergency shutoff should I tear a line at one end or the other. I plan to get the Undercover Fab bracket to use a master cylinder hooked to the factory e-brake lever. That will be more convenient to use, easier to tell if it's left on, and will only effect the rear brakes, still allowing the front to function normally.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 09:44 AM   #391
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It was locked front and rear on 35s, nothing can stop that.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 09:53 AM   #392
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True dat.
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Old March 14th, 2014, 10:13 AM   #393
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Probably because ball valves under that kind of pressure won't perfectly seal and will bleed off pressure over time. I agree, not a good situation, but also not likely to happen with a competent driver

Either way, if I get the valves I don't intend to use them as a parking brake, just an emergency shutoff should I tear a line at one end or the other. I plan to get the Undercover Fab bracket to use a master cylinder hooked to the factory e-brake lever. That will be more convenient to use, easier to tell if it's left on, and will only effect the rear brakes, still allowing the front to function normally.
The ball valve I bought is rated for those pressures and does not bleed off over 3-5 month period tested to date. I know because I couldn't figure out why the hell my junk kept stalling out when trying to drive on flat ground......I always forget I set it
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Old March 14th, 2014, 10:15 AM   #394
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The ball valve I bought is rated for those pressures and does not bleed off over 3-5 month period tested to date. I know because I couldn't figure out why the hell my junk kept stalling out when trying to drive on flat ground......I always forget I set it
Truth..

Even stalled his fawkin winch in Canada.

Dumbass

Edit - I still love you keep helping me with the 4link numberz
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Old March 14th, 2014, 10:19 AM   #395
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Some GREAT info. on brakes here!!!! I have nothing of value to add unfortunately.....
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Old March 14th, 2014, 10:36 AM   #396
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The ball valve I bought is rated for those pressures and does not bleed off over 3-5 month period tested to date. I know because I couldn't figure out why the hell my junk kept stalling out when trying to drive on flat ground......I always forget I set it
Depends on the valve I'm sure. One of the guys in my offroad club in college was using a linelock to hold his Burbalanche stationary on a slight incline. It gave out, started rolling, ran him over when he tried to hop in to hit the brakes, and ended up on its lid at the bottom of a ravine.


Edit: Nevermind, I typed all that then realized it was a manual trans that was left in gear and either rolled through the engine compression or popped out of gear. I forget....I drank a lot in college, and drink only slightly less now....
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Old March 16th, 2014, 02:58 PM   #397
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I'm healed up enough that I was able to start back at it yesterday. Made decent progress on front bumps.






(no the bumpstop is not fully extended)

Heading out now to get the pad on the passenger side of the axle. Clearance is tight over there between the coilover and axle end track bar mount, but I got it all to fit.
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Old March 16th, 2014, 08:50 PM   #398
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Fancy looking......!

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Old March 17th, 2014, 07:08 AM   #399
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Truth..

Even stalled his fawkin winch in Canada.

Dumbass

Edit - I still love you keep helping me with the 4link numberz
I was getting so pissed. I thought I was bound up between the rocks and the tree and it was my damn parking brake. Randy was as confused as I was, then gave me the "Turn your brake off jackass" salute. Damn it.


Good to see you making progress. Brace the hell out of that trackbar mount. It's going to see major forces and impacts.
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Old March 17th, 2014, 07:35 AM   #400
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Good to see you making progress. Brace the hell out of that trackbar mount. It's going to see major forces and impacts.
It'll get plenty. It'll be welded to the axle tube, truss, bump pad, and gusseted again on both sides to tie in at the same points all over again. It's not going anywhere. The sway bar link will probably mount to it as well.

Edit: Damnit, just realized you meant the frame end that's in the pics. Yeah, it'll be welded on the side and bottom and boxed in. That won't be going anywhere either.
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