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Old January 10th, 2014, 12:55 PM   #301
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LOL, I have some bolts to "trim" also. And a hot date this spring with a wire wheel and a rattle can. Trying to talk myself into doing chassie saver or por 15....
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Old January 10th, 2014, 01:07 PM   #302
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When does/did yours rub? Just at full lock all the time? It's at the axle end so I imagine it'd already be worse than what I'm dealing with. I did already look for a button head bolt though Couldn't find anything in 9/16"...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#89955K789

can you go down to 7/16 bolt safely?

I guess it wouldn't matter because the sleeve would bear load too.
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Old January 10th, 2014, 01:35 PM   #303
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Could, but I won't bother until I find it's necessary
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Old January 21st, 2014, 04:10 PM   #304
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Been working on the rear suspension lately.

Had to take a big chunk out to clear the links. I'll box it in and add bracing to the top similar to what I did up front.


Gotta build channels for the floor:


Approximate shock location at ride height:


Pinion gets pretty high at full bump. It looks like it's tilted way up, but the angle actually dropped about 3 compared to ride height.

I want to run this parking brake setup. Looks like it'll be a somewhat tight fit but doable: http://undercoverfab.com/brackets-an...acket-kit.html
I'll probably build a guard for it so it doesn't get taken out if/when I break a driveshaft u-joint.

Approximate shock mount locations:
The sleeve will be through the center of the truss tube, I just tacked it on top for mockup. Glad I did, I need to inboard it about 1". It'll get a bracket on the back for double sheer too, obviously.

Kustom scrap angle iron brackets up top:


I was preoccupied checking clearances underneath as I cycled it and forgot one important little detail


Lower mounts are moving inward 1" and uppers in 1/2" to aleviate this issue:

I may also run 1.5" wheel spacers to add some clearance and bring the width closer to the same as the front, but I'll worry about that later.

Decent clearance on the droop side, but don't wanna move em in too far:
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Old January 21st, 2014, 06:14 PM   #305
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Leave the lowers and just move the uppers? You have tons of room with that tube frame.
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Old January 21st, 2014, 06:22 PM   #306
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Leave the lowers and just move the uppers? You have tons of room with that tube frame.
I looked at the various scenarios and moving both slightly is definitely the best option. I have plenty of room travelling vertically, but under flex it gets tight in a hurry.
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Old January 21st, 2014, 09:07 PM   #307
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What length shocks are you running? 2.0's?
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Old January 21st, 2014, 09:59 PM   #308
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Old January 22nd, 2014, 06:26 AM   #309
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Agree with Thomas, top inboard a bit. My 2.5" air shocks rubbed at full articulation but that was with my old wheels. With re-centered H1's they barely clear. I believe the shocks are about a 13* angle.


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Old January 22nd, 2014, 07:27 AM   #310
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Mine are angled about 10 back and about 10 inward. Like I said, I played around with them a bit and moving the lowers in 1" and uppers in 1/2" seems like the best bet. There's a ton of room between the shock and frame on the stuffed side, but it's a lot tighter on the drooped side. The droop picture angle makes it hard to tell where the interferences are, so you'll just have to take my word for it I can always notch the frame if need be, but I'd rather avoid that.
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Old January 22nd, 2014, 07:35 AM   #311
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Found a better pic. This kinda shows why I'd rather leave the top roughly where it is, but swing the bottom in slightly. I think swinging the top in is gonna hurt frame clearance more than moving the bottom.

Obviously the more vertical the shock is the less travel I'll have, but I'll have plenty as it is. It's a minimal angle change anyway(less than 1.5).
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Old January 28th, 2014, 10:05 PM   #312
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I just read through the last 2 pages of bullshit looking for a picture of coilover hoops sticking through the hood and was disappointed... you want me to come over and cut the holes for ya?
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Old January 29th, 2014, 05:45 AM   #313
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I think you are on the right track. My tires never hit my rear shocks in full cycle in the garage but in the real world of off camber and tire flex they do. I would guess I have at least 1/2" clearance in my worst case.

I'm assuming you are running a double cardan rear driveshaft??

What are your up and down travels at ride height?
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Old January 29th, 2014, 06:08 AM   #314
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Quote:
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I just read through the last 2 pages of bullshit looking for a picture of coilover hoops sticking through the hood and was disappointed... you want me to come over and cut the holes for ya?
get on it. they look sweet that way
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Old January 29th, 2014, 07:26 AM   #315
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Looking good, I'm glad I shafted ya this weekend ;)
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Old January 29th, 2014, 07:49 AM   #316
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I just read through the last 2 pages of bullshit looking for a picture of coilover hoops sticking through the hood and was disappointed... you want me to come over and cut the holes for ya?
It'll happen, but hasn't been done yet. If you come over and cut my Jeep I will cut you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
I think you are on the right track. My tires never hit my rear shocks in full cycle in the garage but in the real world of off camber and tire flex they do. I would guess I have at least 1/2" clearance in my worst case.

I'm assuming you are running a double cardan rear driveshaft??

What are your up and down travels at ride height?
The way I have it set up now the coilover spring/slider comes fairly close to the frame on the droop side at full flex, but I don't see that being a problem if it just barely contacts now and then. It's only at the most extreme case and still doesn't hit in the garage. Even if it makes contact I doubt I'll ever know. Currently the tire barely touches the spring on the compression side at full flex, but I'm going to add wheel spacers to alleviate that. Some people don't like them, but with proper torque I've never seen an issue with them, even with some serious abuse. I'm only running them on the rear, which will bring the rear WMS to just shy of what the front already is.

Yes I'll be running a double cardan shaft, probably gonna get a high angle unit from Tom Woods, cuz at full droop the angle at the t-case gets pretty steep. I don't wanna be binding up the driveshaft when I'm blasting around the dunes jumping and stuff. I'm just running 1310s in the driveshafts for now. I'd rather those be my fuses since I'm still running stock axleshafts and lockouts for the time being. I'll carry spares on the trailer.

Front is about 5" up, 9" down, rear is about 6" up, 8" down. I was shooting for 7" up at both ends, but with the low ride height there just isn't clearance.

Quote:
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Looking good, I'm glad I shafted ya this weekend ;)
I wish they were .6" longer for better spline engagement, but for the price they'll make good spares


Here's the latest progress. This extreme cold weather and an uninsulated shop with only a torpedo heater sucks for motivation, but I'm moving along slowly.
Lower mount. Still gonna add plate to the back side for double sheer:


Top mount. Still gotta add some speed holes, welding, bracing, etc.



I guess it ain't much, but progress is progress....
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Old January 31st, 2014, 07:44 AM   #317
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Rear upper shock mounts done. Sorry for all the pics but I'm pretty proud of these lil guys






Weld porn?
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Old January 31st, 2014, 07:58 AM   #318
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All that work and you didn't add a weld washers to the outside of the bracket to increase the thickness? That's one thing I wish I would have done on mine. Even 1/4" gets wallowed out over time.
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Old January 31st, 2014, 08:05 AM   #319
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Nope I didn't. I don't see the point right now, and if you're right and they do get wallowed out it's an easy fix later.
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Old January 31st, 2014, 08:12 AM   #320
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Quote:
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Rear upper shock mounts done. Sorry for all the pics but I'm pretty proud of these lil guys
Purdy. Did they start off as purchased brackets or made from scratch?
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