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Old October 17th, 2010, 04:02 PM   #1
eagle-eye
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Default 95 f150 trans question

Is the bell housing bolt pattern on the 4.9 the same as a 5.0? he was thinking of swapping the 4.9 to the 5.0 but doesnt wanna replace the trans.

and will the clutch from the 4.9 work or will it have to be replaced?

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Old October 24th, 2010, 07:51 PM   #2
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also need to know how to tell how the slave and master cylinders can be tested and diagnosed bad? and if the mastercylinder has been removed, does that mean the slave cylinder should also be replaced?
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Old October 25th, 2010, 02:24 PM   #3
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Bellhousing bolt pattern on the 4.9 and 5.0 are the same. I'm not sure, but i don't think the clutches are interchangable.

If the slave isn't leaking it's probably still good, but wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace it anyway.
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Old October 26th, 2010, 02:03 PM   #4
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thats just it, i dont know if the slave is bad or not. when i got the truck the master cyl was removed so i have no way to test. probably just going to replace master, slave, clutch, and clutch line.

autozone lists the 11" diam. clutch as being interchangeable... so they might be, just need a bit more info... lol. anyone?
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Old October 26th, 2010, 08:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle-eye View Post
Is the bell housing bolt pattern on the 4.9 the same as a 5.0? he wants to shake the 4.9 to the 5.0 but doesnt wanna replace the trans.

and will the clutch from the 4.9 work or will it have to be replaced?
Does shake mean swap out?

You will need engine mount frame adaptors to put a V8 in a truck that had the I6, otherwise your engine will be 4 inches away from the transmission.
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Old October 26th, 2010, 09:04 PM   #6
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Does shake mean swap out?

You will need engine mount frame adaptors to put a V8 in a truck that had the I6, otherwise your engine will be 4 inches away from the transmission.
ha, yeah. sorry, that description wasnt the best. do you know where i could get them or have them made?
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Old October 28th, 2010, 07:05 PM   #7
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The passenger side one can be unbolted in a junk yard, the driver side is rivetted in. You can get them from LMC truck but they are expensive. I personally think a I6 is better for off roading, more torque to spin the wheels.
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Old October 28th, 2010, 08:58 PM   #8
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i do as well, but i do have one problem, truck runs rough, sounds like it has a miss. checked firing order in chiltons and it is right, as well as where all the plug wires go on the cap. if the cap is in the right position in the chiltons diagram, then the one in the truck is 180 degrees from where it should be. anyone got any experience with this?

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Old October 31st, 2010, 08:26 PM   #9
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anyone?
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Old November 1st, 2010, 02:49 PM   #10
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first pic is what chiltons shows, second is what is actually going on with the truck. dont make fun, i drew the second lol.
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Old November 1st, 2010, 03:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
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i do as well, but i do have one problem, truck runs rough, sounds like it has a miss. checked firing order in chiltons and it is right, as well as where all the plug wires go on the cap. if the cap is in the right position in the chiltons diagram, then the one in the truck is 180 degrees from where it should be. anyone got any experience with this?
so instead of figuring it out, you're going to put in a different motor?
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Old November 1st, 2010, 03:41 PM   #12
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so instead of figuring it out, you're going to put in a different motor?
duh thats the easy way to fix it.
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Old November 1st, 2010, 04:15 PM   #13
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no, it was just a curiousity question. so seeing that its running, not well, but running, im going to fix whats wrong with it if i can figure it out.
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Old November 1st, 2010, 07:47 PM   #14
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If your drawing is accurate compared to the Chiltons, you need to move your wires. You may want to start over. Get the engine to top dead center on the #1 piston on the compression stroke, and restart plugging your plug wires to match the firing order.
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Old November 2nd, 2010, 07:21 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Never_Evil View Post
If your drawing is accurate compared to the Chiltons, you need to move your wires. You may want to start over. Get the engine to top dead center on the #1 piston on the compression stroke, and restart plugging your plug wires to match the firing order.
so the chiltons illustration shows the correct placement of the wires and mine is off? timing is 10 degrees bdc on this engine. i only know this as it is written on the underside of the hood.
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Old November 2nd, 2010, 08:18 AM   #16
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the firing order is correct on both drawings, the only difference being the location of No 1 cylinder on the distributor. If i remember right, the ford TFI style cap is marked with a 1 on the correct location.

If you are unsure of the location on the distributor for the No 1 cyl, bring the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, pop the cap off, and the rotor will be pointing to the No 1 cyl.

Are you aware of the procedure to set the base timing?
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Old November 2nd, 2010, 12:16 PM   #17
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how will i know when cyl 1 is at tdc on the compression stroke?
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Old November 2nd, 2010, 04:23 PM   #18
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took plug 5 out to check condition, color, gap, etc. electrode was joined to discharge tip with very black, crusty, deposits and had some oil fouling. what could cause this?
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Old November 7th, 2010, 02:01 PM   #19
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put new plugs in, all plugs were burning to hot with the exception of plug number 5, which is burning all the oil. exhaust smells of partially burned fuel which, i would imagine, is stemming from cylinder 5 which is trying to burn all the oil and barely gets any of the fuel. this seems to be telling the o2 sensor that the mixture is to rich, so it tells the ecu the lean it out. when it does this, cylinders 1,2,3,4,6 all burn excessivly lean causing them to burn very hot.

i have oil in the bottom of the airbox and some dripping from breather line on top of valve cover into airbox, small pools in both sides of throttle body, and cylinder number 5 is dead(spark only ignites enough fuel to burn off the oil). and a motor that runs like crap.

any ideas or pointers?
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