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Old August 31st, 2010, 10:49 AM   #1
kkodet
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Default I've got one selectable locker - put it in the front or rear?

I'm the guy that bought Trail Junkie's Auburn Ected locker gift certificate. I can get any of their electric selectable lockers I want. Unfortunately they don't currently make any for the big axles, so I'm going to use this for my WJ trail/DD project.

The Grand Cherokee is my Daily driver and will see 50-70,000 miles a year driving for work for now (I work as a delivery driver from my own vehicle) I also plan to use it as my trail rig until my next big project is finished. I've currently got an 8.8 Ford rear, and plan on picking up a dana 30 HP XJ front to put in it.

My old XJ had a quick lock in the front and I loved it. Never even noticed it until I put it in 4 wheel, which is when it mattered.

My thoughts are to use the Auburn Ected in the rear, as it gives me limited slip, and no street issues, and then put another lunchbox in the front. This will give me a full locker front and a selectable rear.

However I'm willing to listen to other ideas as to why it might be better to put it in the front. I know this will reduce stress on the front axle, but if I lock the rear I'll have street issues.

Let me know what you think.
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Old August 31st, 2010, 12:01 PM   #2
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I like your thinking. I'd probably go that route.
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Old August 31st, 2010, 12:22 PM   #3
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Old August 31st, 2010, 12:43 PM   #4
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Based on your stated usage and the amount of driving you do, I would run a selectable in the front.

If you run a non-selectable locker in your front axle, your daily-driver/delivery rig WJ that normally shines in bad weather will suck ass in the winter.

Your WJ is heavy enough, long enough, and insulated enough that you should not have street issues with a non-selectable rear locker. I ran an XJ wiht a Detroit for a long time as a DD and only noticed it when I had the wheel locked to one side, or perhaps when backing up. It would be way more noticeable in a SWB.
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Old August 31st, 2010, 07:34 PM   #5
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I know you are new to Jeeps, but if you call your zj a wj one more time, I'm going to come over and "help" you wrench every night (drink your beer).
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Old August 31st, 2010, 07:34 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by PavementPounder View Post
Based on your stated usage and the amount of driving you do, I would run a selectable in the front.

If you run a non-selectable locker in your front axle, your daily-driver/delivery rig WJ that normally shines in bad weather will suck ass in the winter.

Why do you think it would suck ass in the winter with a locked front? I put 70,000 miles on my old XJ with a quick lock in the front and an open rear. It rocked in the snow and ice. I rarely had to put it in four wheel, and when I did, having a locked front pulled me through everything I needed. The front quick lock only engages when you put it in four wheel drive. Am I missing something?
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Old August 31st, 2010, 07:37 PM   #7
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a locker in the rear is a bit scary on a dd on an icy road. let me test it in my cherokee and i will let you know.

vote: selectable rear, limit or lock front
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Old August 31st, 2010, 07:51 PM   #8
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I know you are new to Jeeps, but if you call your zj a wj one more time, I'm going to come over and "help" you wrench every night (drink your beer).
WJ, CJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, - I can't tell them apart anyways. All jeeps look the same to me
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Old August 31st, 2010, 08:15 PM   #9
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Just a note, while they call it a selectable locker it is more like a selectable spool. just a fyi.
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Old August 31st, 2010, 09:55 PM   #10
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Just a note, while they call it a selectable locker it is more like a selectable spool. just a fyi.
That's the point. Full lockup when switched. Limited when not. Best of both worlds.

This will be my first selectable. I've had Detroits, quick locks, Lincoln Lockers, and limited slips. I've never been a fan of selectables, but I figured it was time to try one.
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Old August 31st, 2010, 11:34 PM   #11
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I started with a locker in the rear of my YJ. With the short wheelbase, it sucks when it's icy, but it's not a DD so it really doesn't matter. I also have a lunchbox in the front and although it's fine for wheeling, it sure tires my steering pump out when I'm offroading. It would be nice to have a selectable in the front. To me a selectable in the rear of a fully locked rig seems unnecessary. I know there's a ton of people who will disagree but that's just my thought. If you're only even going to lock one axles, then I would put it in the rear though.

shortened version vote:
one locker only - put it in the rear
2 lockers - selectable front, whatever else in the rear.
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Old September 1st, 2010, 05:35 AM   #12
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Locker in the rear and open in the front if you want to have decent road maners still. I had welded rear and lunch box in the front of my cj and the thing was scary to drive to the gas station in the winter! I am sure each rig will handle a little different but on snow I am sure this would suck when u put it in 4 wheel with the lunch box up front
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Old September 1st, 2010, 05:50 AM   #13
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Selectable up front to save axle shafts, use it only when needed
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Old September 1st, 2010, 06:09 AM   #14
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WJ, CJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, - I can't tell them apart anyways. All jeeps look the same to me
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 09:20 AM   #15
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I just ordered up one for my 8.8 rear. My reasoning is thus.

The 8.8 is the biggest and strongest one they make in the Ected line, and I'm about to swap the 8.8 into the back of my ZJ, so the timing is right.

I don't even have the front axle I want/need yet for the jeep, so going with the 8.8 feels right. For the front I'm probably going to swap in a HP XJ dana 30 and regear/lockright it. However I've recently come across a good deal on a complete axle with the right gears and shafts that's open, so I maaaaaaay leave it open and save up for another ected.

However I have not completely tossed the idea out of building a 44 or maybe even a 60 for the front, In which the ected wouldn't even be an option for the 60.

My tire size choice will ultimately dictate my desicion as to the front. I'm aiming for 33's, but I may stay with 31's or 32's. A 30 should hold up fine to all those sizes, but if I decide to go bigger I'll most likely build up somthing.
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 09:28 AM   #16
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I believe you've made the right choice.
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 09:33 AM   #17
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I believe you've made the right choice.
Thanks. I know alot of the guys dismiss the 8.8 as a light duty axle, but if you really think of it, it's got 31 spline shafts, which are bigger than most factory rear dana 60's. The ring gear is fairly thick and stout, and the only disadvantage I see is that the axle is a C-clip. However I'm using a disc brake explorer axle, so even in the off chance I manage to break a shaft with my tiny tires, the caliper/disc will most likely hold the shaft in long enough to get off the trail, where if I had drums it would do the famous c-clip walk-out.
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 09:39 AM   #18
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Thanks. I know alot of the guys dismiss the 8.8 as a light duty axle, but if you really think of it, it's got 31 spline shafts, which are bigger than most factory rear dana 60's. The ring gear is fairly thick and stout, and the only disadvantage I see is that the axle is a C-clip. However I'm using a disc brake explorer axle, so even in the off chance I manage to break a shaft with my tiny tires, the caliper/disc will most likely hold the shaft in long enough to get off the trail, where if I had drums it would do the famous c-clip walk-out.
FWIW there is kits available to eliminate the c-clips on the 8.8. I agree though, I think the 8.8 is under-rated by most. IMO run a 30 up front. If you go to a 44 or 60 then you won't have matching bolt patterns and unless you are narrowing them the WMS will be different front to rear as well. The bolt pattern thing isn't a huge deal but it basically forces you to carry 2 spares or risk it with one that might not work.
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 09:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithshotrodshop View Post
Thanks. I know alot of the guys dismiss the 8.8 as a light duty axle, but if you really think of it, it's got 31 spline shafts, which are bigger than most factory rear dana 60's. The ring gear is fairly thick and stout, and the only disadvantage I see is that the axle is a C-clip. However I'm using a disc brake explorer axle, so even in the off chance I manage to break a shaft with my tiny tires, the caliper/disc will most likely hold the shaft in long enough to get off the trail, where if I had drums it would do the famous c-clip walk-out.

I beat the crap out of my 8.8 and it doesn't even flinch even with 16/35 X 15 boggers and steel wheels. 2 recommendations for the 8.8 before you install it. 1st is to weld the tubes in. They have a tendency to spin in the housing. 2nd, on the bottom of the housing, there is one heck of a lip. You really can't grind much there since the oil valley is pretty low. Instead of grinding mind off, I took some 1/4" plate and made a little ramp for it in the middle. The difference was night and day for snagging that thing. It was like a boat anchor before, now I just slide it over things when I need to.
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 09:57 AM   #20
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I beat the crap out of my 8.8 and it doesn't even flinch even with 16/35 X 15 boggers and steel wheels. 2 recommendations for the 8.8 before you install it. 1st is to weld the tubes in. They have a tendency to spin in the housing. 2nd, on the bottom of the housing, there is one heck of a lip. You really can't grind much there since the oil valley is pretty low. Instead of grinding mind off, I took some 1/4" plate and made a little ramp for it in the middle. The difference was night and day for snagging that thing. It was like a boat anchor before, now I just slide it over things when I need to.
I planned on welding the tubes already, and that's a good tip on the bottom. I've done the same thing on standard dana 70 axles. They too have a big valley/lip on the bottom that likes to snag. Once you weld them up they slide over rocks like butter.
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