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Old August 14th, 2010, 08:41 PM   #21
LuckyCharm4x4
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Is the fuel pump hard to replace or require any special tools or is it something that I can do with normal handtools?
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Old August 14th, 2010, 09:05 PM   #22
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Here is the pump. it comes with a 1/2" line and I believe a wiring harness. Not to forget that it has a lifetime warranty.

http://www.xtremediesel.com/pureflow...ump150gph.aspx
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Old August 14th, 2010, 11:33 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by LuckyCharm4x4 View Post
Here is the pump. it comes with a 1/2" line and I believe a wiring harness. Not to forget that it has a lifetime warranty.

http://www.xtremediesel.com/pureflow...ump150gph.aspx
The Raptor is a good pump, but if you can afford it, I'd recommend going with an Air Dog, which is also made by Pure Flow Technologies, due to the added water/air separator and better filtration.

I personally have a FASS 150/150 on my truck currently, and while it has done the job, the pump motor did go out on me a few months ago and I had to send it back to have it rebuilt. The Air Dog is basically the same design, but I have seen better luck as far as reliability goes. I have seen several other motors burn up on FASS systems.

One other option to consider, and the next pump I will be purchasing, is a Fuel Boss from Glacier Diesel. It is a fully mechanical lift pump that increases output as engine RPMs increase. You'll never have to worry about electronic failures ever again.

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...pf_id=FB-98502
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Old August 14th, 2010, 11:45 PM   #24
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That pump says it still needs a lift pump. Is that just an add-on or would you just use the injector pump until the Fuel Boss kicks in?
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Old August 15th, 2010, 12:14 AM   #25
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That pump says it still needs a lift pump. Is that just an add-on or would you just use the injector pump until the Fuel Boss kicks in?
The Glacier Kit does say you need the electric lift pump, but only to prime the fuel canister after replacing the fuel filter. The pump only turns on at start up, like normal, and is then kicked off by a pressure switch after the truck is running. If you're current lift pump works at all, it may very work good enough to prime the fuel canister. And even at that, it's still possible to prime the fuel system without an electric lift pump.
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Old August 15th, 2010, 04:14 PM   #26
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side note: I am looking to put in a fuel pressure gauge. What pressures do these trucks see? There are gauges from 0-15 and 0-100psi.
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Old August 15th, 2010, 05:09 PM   #27
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Is this the Air Dog that you've been mentioning? http://www.vulcanperformance.com/AIR...p/fp150d24.htm

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Old August 15th, 2010, 06:16 PM   #28
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http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....ber=ISS-R17055 That is the one i have. these trucks normally run under 20psi. Mine ranges from 18 down to 11ish. so i got a 1-40 gauge.
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Old August 15th, 2010, 09:18 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyCharm4x4 View Post
Is this the Air Dog that you've been mentioning? http://www.vulcanperformance.com/AIR...p/fp150d24.htm

Yep, that's the system.

And like Spudy said, a VP pump should run in the range of 10-20 psi. At idle, you should typically see 17-18 psi and no less than 10 psi at wide open throttle, unless of course you're running a mechanical system. With the Fuel Boss, pressure at idle is usually 10 psi and about 18 psi at WOT.
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Old August 16th, 2010, 08:18 AM   #30
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I think that I am going to order the 100gph pump. After hearing what the guys were saying on the Cummins forum it seems that the 100 will be plenty for my truck.
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Old August 16th, 2010, 11:06 AM   #31
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How do you hook up a gauge to this system? I am not going to be able to do it at the same time as the pump swap, but within a few weeks I want to have a gauge on there. Is there anything I need to do for the gauge before/during the install?

When I order the pump will I need to order the: "Tapped 90 degree fitting 1/8 NPT"
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Old August 16th, 2010, 11:07 AM   #32
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Thanks again for all of the help so far guys, like I said before, Diesels are new to me.
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Old August 16th, 2010, 10:24 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyCharm4x4 View Post
I think that I am going to order the 100gph pump. After hearing what the guys were saying on the Cummins forum it seems that the 100 will be plenty for my truck.
A 100 GPH pump is plenty for a stock to moderately modified truck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyCharm4x4 View Post
How do you hook up a gauge to this system? I am not going to be able to do it at the same time as the pump swap, but within a few weeks I want to have a gauge on there. Is there anything I need to do for the gauge before/during the install?

When I order the pump will I need to order the: "Tapped 90 degree fitting 1/8 NPT"
You'll want to mount the sender for the fuel pressure gauge at the feed line on the pump, rather than the gauge port on the lift pump which is what I'm assuming that tapped 90 fitting is for. You'll get the most accurate reading at the injection pump.

You have a few different options as far as gauge set ups go. Ideally, you don't want to run fuel into the cab. You can get an electric fuel gauge and mount the gauge directly in the cab, as there is no fuel line running to the gauge. Only downfall is electric gauges cost much more than mechanicals and aren't always as accurate and reliable. Your second option is to buy a mechanical gauge and mount it on the hood/wiper cowl directly in front of the windshield. This way the fuel line doesn't have to enter the cab. Or, you can get a mechanical gauge and buy an isolator. You run your fuel line from the sender to the isolator, which mounts under the hood, and then connect the gauge to the isolator, which allows you to mount the mechanical gauge inside the cab.

As far as hooking up the sender goes, you can buy a tapped banjo bolt to replace the factory bolt on the VP feed inlet and hook the sender into the tapped end of the banjo bolt. Or you can purchase a tapped T-fitting and splice it into your fuel hose going into the VP.

One other thing you'll want to look into is a snubber or a needle valve to protect the sending unit from pressure spikes and vibrations. Also, in the event you decide to mount a mechanical gauge inside the cab without an isolator, the needle valve will you allow you to shut off fuel supply to the line running into the cab in the event of a leak.

Last edited by Blacklung; August 16th, 2010 at 10:28 PM.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 09:34 AM   #34
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I am going to be purchasing this gauge: http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/6161/10002/-1 It covers the psi range, it's electric, and it matches the other gauges that I am picking up pretty cheap.

Where can this banjo bolt be purchased and what does it look like? Can you get a picture of where it goes on the VP?

What is a snubber or needle valve? Is it like a check valve? Do you have a link to one of these?

Thank you!
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Old August 18th, 2010, 10:07 AM   #35
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Is this where the airdog gets installed? On the framerail, and not on the block like the old pump?

pic stolen from someone on this site! bwa ha ha





Also, is this the original pump?





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Old September 11th, 2010, 12:37 PM   #36
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I would definetly recommend a external lift pump and water seperator of some sort..personally I'm not a fan of Airdog..I'm a fass guy.. the filters are a must for a VP44 truck.. they do not last long at all...from what you are saying you could have a VP issue which is the injection pump..you could take it off and go a Diesel shop have them test it retime it and maybe rebuild it..not to cheap either.. thats why is was replaced on the 3rd Gen trucks for a CP3. and common rail injection.. If you get a airdog or fass.. it will replace everything and installation is easy.. just drop the tank for installing the draw straw..cut it to the correct length and cut 2 triangles in it and have it sit on the bottom then you won't have the 1/4 tank issue.. try thsi web site they are a bit cheaper I think..http://www.alligatorperformance.com/...m-t-192-5.html
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