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Old July 12th, 2010, 05:20 PM   #1
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Post Upgraded steering question

Well the time has come for me to change up the steering up front. I have had shot TRE's for quite some time, and a small bend in the tie rod which was just recently discovered, both of which will provide me an excuse to install upgraded steering of some sort. Price isn't a huge issue here, although savings is always welcome. What I'm looking for is testimonial to the systems that are available for my '00 XJ. The systems I have found and am interested in so far are:

JCR 1-ton OTK- $$

ORO U-Turn OTK- $$$

BPS Bullet Proof OTK- $$

Currie Enterprises- $$$

I'm interested in the BPS system with the upgrades ends. However, since this is not my area of expertise, I did my research and saw that some people mentioned the on-road manners of heim joints are sometimes or often piss poor and can create huge amounts of bump steer. I understand the inherent risk factor of separating a heim (there are spacers intended to eliminate this but still) but I am wondering for real world experience, on a trail-ready 80% DD rig, what's my best option here?

By the way, it's a 2000 XJ with a 4.5" short arm on 33's.

Also, with these setups, do you guys recommend running a drop pitman of some type, or just keeping stock?
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Old July 12th, 2010, 05:25 PM   #2
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i have been more than happy with my jcr 1 ton on my xj. I'm running 7.5 inches of lift and have never had any bumpsteer problems or any problems with their steering setup.
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Old July 12th, 2010, 05:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martianjeep View Post
i have been more than happy with my jcr 1 ton on my xj. I'm running 7.5 inches of lift and have never had any bumpsteer problems or any problems with their steering setup.
Are you running the OTK kit or UTK? I would like to go OTK, but am wondering about the hassles of relocating the track bar bracket and sway links.
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Old July 12th, 2010, 05:30 PM   #4
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Not exactly your setup but glean from it what you will.

Using the Currie setup on my 98 TJ, 4" lift with 33s. Easy install, drives nice. Instructions insisted on a stock pitman arm. Stock vs dropped may cause some debate but many people, including me now, will say that a dropped pitman arm is not necessary.
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Old July 12th, 2010, 05:52 PM   #5
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Here's a stupid question- if I were to go JCR UTK right now, obviously I have to drill and ream, but can save the headaches of sway bars and track bar mounts. However, if I go UTK now (drilling, reaming from under the knuckle) will I not be able to do OTK later? I'm trying to imagine how the drilling/reaming works for the OTK, and I'm figuring you have to ream from the top of the knuckle for OTK. Am I wrong? Would the conversion go smoother than I imagine?
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Old August 10th, 2010, 12:26 PM   #6
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Free bump since I'm waiting to see how yours goes to do mine. The steering gear just made a big puddle in my driveway and that combined with every joint being shot makes me want to do this and the durango box sooner than later now.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 12:38 PM   #7
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You didn't list it, but Teraflex makes a crossover steering kit for D30s too. Its pricey, but works well. It is designed to be UTK, but I think they make a conversion kit to make it OTK.

FYI the crossover steering kit on our site is not for late model D30s...YJs, TJs, XJs, etc. It only works with CJ style D30 setups.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 12:12 AM   #8
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Well the final upgrade is going to be as follows:
Jcr utk 1 ton
Wj ps pump
99 durango steering box
New steering lines and (as per recommendation from pirate) amsoil htf.

I will try to get a record of everything that I do and how everything goes with the install and post it in my build thread. Ryan, I will come by for some more lights and show you the setup when I'm done.

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Old August 11th, 2010, 02:17 AM   #9
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Why not just go with V8 ZJ steering ? cheap and easy to install, less hassle - you don't have to ream out the knuckles, easy to maintain, mine has held up great.

And you can still upgrade your other steering system parts if you so desire. (I wouldn't)

If you want to go over the knuckle visit Goferit Offroad. You'll be back to drilling out your knuckles but you were willing to do that in the first place.

Last edited by two_much_talk; August 11th, 2010 at 02:23 AM.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 08:31 AM   #10
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a 4.5 lift on an XJ is like a 6.5 on a TJ. I am running the ZJ setup on my 5-5.5 lifted XJ and when I droop the passenger front tire I bind the crap out of the TRE at the pitman arm (I have CA drop brackets however). He is far better off with a True OTK kit that will solve the angle problems and will still work if the jeep ever sits higher. Not to mention the ZJ setup still uses stock sized ends.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 08:43 AM   #11
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Hey Blackjeep- whichever set up you end up tunning- just make sure that your track-bar and main steering link coming down from you steering arm are parallel. That is the issue that causes drivability problems. If they are not parallel to each other, you will have bump-steer and death wobble issues that won't go away until corrected.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 10:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackjeep View Post
Here's a stupid question- if I were to go JCR UTK right now, obviously I have to drill and ream, but can save the headaches of sway bars and track bar mounts. However, if I go UTK now (drilling, reaming from under the knuckle) will I not be able to do OTK later? I'm trying to imagine how the drilling/reaming works for the OTK, and I'm figuring you have to ream from the top of the knuckle for OTK. Am I wrong? Would the conversion go smoother than I imagine?
I didn't see this thread until now.

Yes, the tapers would need to go from the top-down. I switched my knuckles out when I went from UTK to OTK with the JCR setup and did it over again.

My solution to the sway bar problem were Teraflex's relocated lower sway bar brackets that weld to the top of the knuckle yokes and come inboard to the stock link location. Worked great, but have the coils in place when you tack the brackets in. This way you can account for the variation in thickness and diameter of aftermarket lift coils. This was not done on mine and the Skyjacker coils were right up against the Teraflax bracket, which generated a little noise once in a while in addition to just rubbing all the time.
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Old August 12th, 2010, 12:15 AM   #13
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Twomuchtalk- I considered this setup and the cons outweighed the pros.

Sandvipr- I will be adjusting my iro track bar and praying for parallel. If all else fails I can grab a different pitman arm to fix my draglink angle and drill/ream it. Thanks for the heads up.

PP- so my (unstated) assumption is correct then, that the same tie rod and drag link can be used for otk but I will just need to swap my knuckles from my other d30 and ream again? If so then I may just grab my other d30 and build it up a little (pointless i know) including otk for a future swap.

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys. I should be starting the install either tomorrow or saturday, so I will let you guys know how everything goes. Hopefully my rig will stop trying to kill me.

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Old August 13th, 2010, 10:22 AM   #14
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Been running JCR OTK on my YJ for about 2 years, (1 year on the road and 1 looking pretty sitting in the garage) I had to ditch my drop pitman arm because it would hit on full stuff, other than that, no complaints. My stock tre's were shot from day 1 i got her, so I noticed a huge improvement.
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