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Old August 10th, 2010, 12:19 AM   #1
zjguy721
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Default Full Size Broncos - front axles

Is it worth it to look at anything after '79? I'd like to get a FSB, but don't know how to lift (or even deal with) a TTB setup? Not worth doing? Maybe a K5 instead?
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Old August 10th, 2010, 01:00 AM   #2
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Having switched from an XJ to a '94, the TTB setup isn't all that bad. Lift kits are relatively easy and plentiful for these trucks. Just stay away from anything drop bracket and you should be fine.
I personally want to SAS my truck however the people at fullsizebronco.com have pretty much shot down every logical idea I could come up with. They have itemized write-ups on how to do such a thing but holy crap they blow money. We are talking like 3-4000 dollars to SAS one of these trucks.
For the most part these trucks come with D44 TTBs, which if you look in the axle section of this forum you'll see a great list of axles including this setup and much info on it.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 05:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cglenn View Post
Having switched from an XJ to a '94, the TTB setup isn't all that bad. Lift kits are relatively easy and plentiful for these trucks. Just stay away from anything drop bracket and you should be fine.
I personally want to SAS my truck however the people at fullsizebronco.com have pretty much shot down every logical idea I could come up with. They have itemized write-ups on how to do such a thing but holy crap they blow money. We are talking like 3-4000 dollars to SAS one of these trucks.
For the most part these trucks come with D44 TTBs, which if you look in the axle section of this forum you'll see a great list of axles including this setup and much info on it.

How do you lift a TTB without drop brackets?
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Old August 10th, 2010, 08:33 AM   #4
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the one down side you'll find with the TTB's is they don't stay aligned, especially after lifting and bigger tires. I loved my 86 with body lift and 33's, never broke anything on it, even after jumping it on accedent on dunes. the hardest part on doing suspension lift on them is doing drop brackets for crossmember mount of front axle.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 08:54 AM   #5
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With my bronco I just sold I had my share of issues but its easy to work on. I had a 96 wich has the second generation of the ttb. My truck had a 6" suspension lift with 3" body and 37" tires. I would not recommend tires that big. Dont go over a 35". In 3 years I replaced the ball joints once and wheel bearings several times. I tried several brands and until I bought the timkens I would go through a set in 3 months. Once I had the timkens I just greased every 2-3 months and evertime I went wheeling just to be safe. With the 37" tires I was always breaking axleshafts when wheeling.

All in all they are great trucks but you are just limited to how big you can go or you will always have problems. Most places dont know how to align a ttb properly. They will fix the toe but not the camber. All they need to do is install the correct camber sleeve on top of the top ball joint. I miss mine everyday. I loved having the top off.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 09:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameron69 View Post
How do you lift a TTB without drop brackets?
What he means is this:

There are 2 types of brackets to lift a TTB.

The cheap route uses a plate that goes between the existing bracket and the frame mount (this mostly pertains to the driver side bracket, holding the passenger side axle beam). Basically it makes it so you mount the stock bracket a couple inches lower. The problem with these setups is that since the axle will still come up relatively close to the stock maximum compression, that "drop bracket" is now several inches lower and will punch a hole straight through your differential! unless you run some massive bump stops that make running such a lift seem kind of a waste.

The slightly more expensive route (and really the ONLY route for anything other than a street queen) is a replacement bracket that bolts to the original mounting bracket location but moves the axle pivot bolt several inches lower. This won't put holes in differentials and is generally the stronger solution as well.

Also, this is a very informative read:
Ford\\\\\\\\\\'s (In)Famous TTB suspension - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
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Old August 10th, 2010, 09:59 AM   #7
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There is probably a couple hundred guys on FSB that have wheeled there trucks with drop brackets. MOST people use them. Including some guys who have jumped pretty substantially. With no problems.

The TTB is no weaker than a solid 44. It gives up a little bit of articulation to the solid axle, but rides better on road and off.

You can upgrade the stock TTB 44 with a Dana 50 center section from the F250's, and a Dana 50 inner U-joint.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 11:01 AM   #8
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On my Bronco, I believe it has a Full-Traction extended arm lift (I bought it like this) and the only thing that was said was that the center mount or whatever on the axle is dropped down. I guess my friend said that that drop piece is kind of a weak point, of course I don't know if I should believe him. He ripped a steering box from the frame I think from that drop bracket there or something. I didn't get the whole story.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 11:13 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Bronco View Post
There is probably a couple hundred guys on FSB that have wheeled there trucks with drop brackets. MOST people use them. Including some guys who have jumped pretty substantially. With no problems.
I guess I was going out on a limb there. The TTB Rangers run into that problem all the time and are almost universally agreed upon to not bother using them and spend another $100-$200 on the better kits.

Which I still stand by my recommendation.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 11:20 AM   #10
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I had 3 of the early TTB trucks and beat the crap out of them, climbing nasty rutted out hills at an old gravel pit, most other vehicles would not go near them. I used 2" lift coils in the front and add a leafs in the rear. I ran 32's on them until they were rusted then cut away the rust and ran 35's. I wore out one set of ball joints. I used the adjustable caster camber eccentrics on the upper ball joint for alignment and had no issues with keeping them aligned. I also installed a set of air lift air bags inside the front springs to adjust the ride height when I ran the winch on a removable mount. I did things with those trucks that none of my other Broncos would do. I have owned 66,72,73,77(2),78 79,81 & 84(2) Broncos and the 81 saw more abuse than all of the others combined. Unlees I was rockcrawling or wanted to run something bigger than a 35 I wouldn't bother with a SAS.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 12:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ledd View Post
I guess I was going out on a limb there. The TTB Rangers run into that problem all the time and are almost universally agreed upon to not bother using them and spend another $100-$200 on the better kits.

Which I still stand by my recommendation.

From what I gather, you are right, cut and turned beams are stronger. But, that is what the desert guys say. And LOTS of those trucks have reinforced the stock crossmember where the beams mount.

Either way like I said LOTS of guys use the drop brackets.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 12:50 PM   #12
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I completely agree with above, and TTB absorbes abuse way better than solid because of the way it moves. I miss my 86.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 01:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Bronco View Post
From what I gather, you are right, cut and turned beams are stronger. But, that is what the desert guys say. And LOTS of those trucks have reinforced the stock crossmember where the beams mount.
I never mentioned anything about cut and turned beams.

I was comparing a NEW bracket (that completely replaces the OEM bracket) that moves the pivot bolt lower (the better option). As opposed to a plate that moves the original stock bracket lower (can punch a hole in your differential housing).
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Old August 10th, 2010, 06:34 PM   #14
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Well, I wouldn't be planning on running anything bigger than 35's, maybe 33's even, so sounds like it is very doable. Just used to solid axles, didn't want to get into something that I would regret.

Thanks for all the input. I'll definitely do some more research on it!
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Old August 10th, 2010, 06:46 PM   #15
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I run 33's, NO LIFT, all i did was space the front bumper out .500" at the brackets and ran aftermarket rims. I wheeled the piss out of it at the dunes and the tires never rubbed. And my susp is whooped and sagging a bit on top of that.

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Old August 10th, 2010, 07:51 PM   #16
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Unless you are doing Duke of Hazard jumps into a valley of jumbo boulders, the Rough Country lift for $500 is more than enough for most people.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 11:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ledd View Post
I never mentioned anything about cut and turned beams.

I was comparing a NEW bracket (that completely replaces the OEM bracket) that moves the pivot bolt lower (the better option). As opposed to a plate that moves the original stock bracket lower (can punch a hole in your differential housing).
At this point I don't even know what your talking about. Have you ever seen the crossmember that the beams bolt to on a fullsize? The stock bracket is the entire crossmember.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 11:40 PM   #18
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I should know in a couple weeks how a mild setup will work.

78-79 springs, stock replacements from JBG. They are 270-something lbs per inch, and stock in the TTB Broncos is 337lbs or 360lbs

These combined with TJ spring seats and retainers from Ruffstuff, should net about 2.5" of lift.

I'll have pictures of what you need to do to the TTB to run the earlier springs later this week if your interested.

I'm also going to install a used set of 2.5" lift rough country drop brackets.
Doetch Tech Pre-Runner shocks for a 4" lift, relocated bumpstops, (for more uptravel without much lift) and extended radius arms.

I suspect it will move nicely on the trails, and ride nicely on road too.


Currently it's all stock, trimmed fenders and 35's
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Old August 11th, 2010, 12:30 AM   #19
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Quote:
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At this point I don't even know what your talking about. Have you ever seen the crossmember that the beams bolt to on a fullsize? The stock bracket is the entire crossmember.
Crawled under one once, everything looked pretty much the same as a Ranger. Though I was only asked my opinion about a ball joint/tie rod end. I guess I never even imagined the crossmember itself would come down that far, especially on a full size.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 02:08 PM   #20
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if you don't plan on running bigger than 33, i'd personally just do body lift, keep suspension stock
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