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Old June 25th, 2010, 03:14 AM   #1
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Default bender arm thickness

I am building a bender in the next week or two. building a jd2 style bender not a got trikes style. My question is what size thickness arms should I go with? I read that a few people have bent the stock 1/2" arms which made me think go 5/8" or 3/4" for the arms and not worry about it. Just don't want to do stupid overkill. Its going to be manual for now but maybe someday I will add a hydro conversion. mostly will be bending .120 wall but possibly the occasional 1/4" if I ever converted to hydro. I am very new to tube bending. Would I have to worry about die breaking if I was bending 1/4"?
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Old June 25th, 2010, 04:23 AM   #2
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My JD2 model 32 has 3/4 thick arms and is rated to bend up to 2" .250 wall. I would suggest using 3/4 if you ever plan on bending the heavy stuff. It isn't going to cost you much more to go 3/4 over 5/8" or 1/2".

As long as you buy/build a quality die it should never break. Something else that takes more force will fail first, such as pivot pins or drive bars. If you go to JD2's website you can kind of get an idea of the material difference between the lighter duty model 3 and the heavier model 32.
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Old June 25th, 2010, 05:09 AM   #3
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My JD2 model 32 has 3/4 thick arms and is rated to bend up to 2" .250 wall. I would suggest using 3/4 if you ever plan on bending the heavy stuff. It isn't going to cost you much more to go 3/4 over 5/8" or 1/2".

As long as you buy/build a quality die it should never break. Something else that takes more force will fail first, such as pivot pins or drive bars. If you go to JD2's website you can kind of get an idea of the material difference between the lighter duty model 3 and the heavier model 32.
thanks for the response/opinion. guess I will go 3/4" then. I most likely will build my own die if i can find some 11"-12" steel.

I like the way they do the draw bar follower on the newer jd2's. wasn't going to do them that way until I saw them on their site.
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Old June 25th, 2010, 06:46 AM   #4
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I redid mine out of 3/4" after a previous owner bent the 1/2" arms fwiw.
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Old June 25th, 2010, 09:08 AM   #5
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not a jd2 but a pro tools here and mine are the "heavy duty" version and they are 5/8.
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Old June 25th, 2010, 09:28 AM   #6
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Mine are 5/8, but the much more important bit, is get cold worked steel, not hot rolled.
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Old June 25th, 2010, 11:28 AM   #7
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I have the Protools 105 HD with 5/8" thick main arms and 1/2" thick inner arms(?) The main arms are bent to shit and put a helical twist to the larger angle bends now. I'm going to redo a lot of it but the main redo will be quality 3/4" main arms along with a little different hydro ram orientation.
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Old June 27th, 2010, 06:27 PM   #8
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Sorry, I have the pro-tools. I have the cad file for the outer arms from the CMM if you want it Bryce. That's how we made my arms up. I just took it back apart to have bronze bushings put in all 4 arms. I think the holes have just as much to do with the helical as the bent arms honestly.
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Old June 27th, 2010, 08:42 PM   #9
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We bent the 5/8 arms twice. Once was from forgetting to pull a pin I was storing, and the other time was bending 2" thick wall tube (I don't remember the actual wall.)
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Old June 28th, 2010, 08:23 AM   #10
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Oh, left out the bender info. Mine is a homebuilt one, the arms are larger than a 105, width wise. Arms are 1018 cold finished.
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Old July 2nd, 2010, 07:15 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by feva4u View Post
Sorry, I have the pro-tools. I have the cad file for the outer arms from the CMM if you want it Bryce. That's how we made my arms up. I just took it back apart to have bronze bushings put in all 4 arms. I think the holes have just as much to do with the helical as the bent arms honestly.
did you put 4 separate bushings in each or just two bushings that go between the two arms? have been reading that a lot of people do that but have not seen pictures of it done yet. I have access to a bunch of bronze bushings or bronze that I could make bushings out of if I do have a certain size that works or can be modified to work.

edit: nvm figured it out

Last edited by Blackjackbender; July 2nd, 2010 at 07:20 AM.
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Old July 2nd, 2010, 07:16 AM   #12
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3/4 on the ones I built!

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Old July 2nd, 2010, 07:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackjackbender View Post
did you put 4 separate bushings in each or just two bushings that go between the two arms? have been reading that a lot of people do that but have not seen pictures of it done yet. I have access to a bunch of bronze bushings or bronze that I could make bushings out of if I do have a certain size that works or can be modified to work.

edit: nvm figured it out
I'm actually using headed bushings top and bottom to give the dieset something other than steel to ride on when I don't have tube in it. Makes it easier to get stuff lined up. The middle arms are just straight bushings. So 4, 2 headed, 2 straight. I only used the bushings to take the slop out of the stock holes.
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Old July 2nd, 2010, 08:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feva4u View Post
I'm actually using headed bushings top and bottom to give the dieset something other than steel to ride on when I don't have tube in it. Makes it easier to get stuff lined up. The middle arms are just straight bushings. So 4, 2 headed, 2 straight. I only used the bushings to take the slop out of the stock holes.
sounds good, thanks for the info. any reason to use 4 separate bushings instead of just 2 headed bushings one for each sets of arms?



was writing a program to run these on cnc-mill but we've been booked at work so none have opened up and the one that was going to crashed yesterday . Most likely will do the majority of this on a Bridgeport bah to get it done faster. If I end up doing it on a cnc-mill ill post up the code when I am done.
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Old July 2nd, 2010, 08:51 AM   #15
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I want the pin taking the load between all 4 arms, not the bronze bushings. Too many constraints on the degrees of freedom if the bushing goes through the upper and middle arm if that's what you mean.
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