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Old June 12th, 2010, 11:27 PM   #1
str8country
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Default Building D60's for a JK

Taking some babysteps with this project-

first a little background on the rig:
07 unlimited X package
6 sp
5.5" rockkrawler triple threat lift
5.13's pushing 40's ridin on da d30 and d44, both open
DD jeep
Here's my plan so for:


this pile-o-parts will eventually be a front axle-


but first i must address the rear because i have too many parts to purchase and dont need to add rims to the list right now

for the rear i picked up a ford dana 60 for $5 at an auction. at the time i was simply pumped cause A. it was $5, B. it was a full float. now i'm not sure that the ff is the way to go. from my understanding the odo needs at least one tone ring to work. I can care less about the abs/esp/bas christmas tree lights that loom my dash already, but i need a speedo. if i'm correct a SF style shaft will be easier to mount the tone ring?

so what im thinking is cut the ends off the ford axle, fab up or purchase a bearing housing to weld on like this or This-would run the set 20 bearing, reuse the brake housing, pick up a tone ring from currie and run a off the shelf 35 spline ford 9" style axle shafts drilled for both the 5on5 and 5on5.5 i havent measured the d44 flange yet - but i will assume it is different than the ford versions?
also the area where the tone ring is pressed on the shaft i will assume is specific to the jk, so the run of the mill shaft wont work ?anyone make this type of kithttp://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...E.aspx?id=3371

what i cant seem to find is how to determine the housing length- how much to cut off the old housing, and well for that matter is it even long enough? do i just get the shafts bought and work backwards from there?
whats the diff between set 20 and set 80 bearings?
any other thoughts? like will this even work?
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Old June 13th, 2010, 12:14 AM   #2
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looks like it will be a killer ride when its done man. sorry i cannt help on the bearing set up.


im sure more will chime in. but untill then what do you plan to do.

just a thought but do you plan to still run the 40s with locked axles?

what is the plan for the front axle? what year knuckles are in the pics? looks like ball joints?
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Old June 13th, 2010, 12:42 AM   #3
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your problem will be that the factory tubes on the FF rear 60 arent going to be long enough to allow you much more than a 56" rear axle without pulling them or adding to them.

I would recommend either running a 14 bolt rear in FF, or use a fabricated 9" housing and run a low 9 center if you can live without an ARB in the rear. With the 9" you can do FF or SF outers.

Nice start to the front axle! Looks like it'll be a nice reliable rig when it's done!
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Old June 13th, 2010, 07:43 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by boggin-machine View Post

just a thought but do you plan to still run the 40s with locked axles?

what is the plan for the front axle? what year knuckles are in the pics? looks like ball joints?
yes and no plan yet, i traded a trailer for the parts, they are solid axle BJ knuckles.


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your problem will be that the factory tubes on the FF rear 60 arent going to be long enough to allow you much more than a 56" rear axle without pulling them or adding to them.

I would recommend either running a 14 bolt rear in FF, or use a fabricated 9" housing and run a low 9 center if you can live without an ARB in the rear. With the 9" you can do FF or SF outers.

Nice start to the front axle! Looks like it'll be a nice reliable rig when it's done!
not really excited about the boat anchor- i had one on my tj, not that the rockcrusher housing isnt one either, but what about the tone ring?

arb's is one thing i didnt really want to skimp on plus i'd feel like the jeep is wearing two different socks.
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Old June 13th, 2010, 08:40 AM   #5
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Try to make this work:
Currie Rock Jock Iron 60 rear axel PICS ADDED - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest


It has more clearance than a 44 so no boat anchor and already has an ARB. I will install gears of your choice.
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Old June 13th, 2010, 09:45 AM   #6
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idk anything about the tone ring but, what if you got a rear out of a newer truck that has them? Do they have them?

On a side note: we have built (4) high pinion 60 rears with 9" outers and 5 X 5.5 bolt pattern and they work great. try and make the rock Jock work that would be cool
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Old June 13th, 2010, 01:46 PM   #7
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Try to make this work: Currie Rock Jock Iron 60 rear axel PICS ADDED - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest


It has more clearance than a 44 so no boat anchor and already has an ARB. I will install gears of your choice.
no offense but for about the same price this one comes with brackets for a jk on it already.http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.as...4&partID=53108 and solves all my problems for me
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idk anything about the tone ring but, what if you got a rear out of a newer truck that has them? Do they have them?

On a side note: we have built (4) high pinion 60 rears with 9" outers and 5 X 5.5 bolt pattern and they work great. try and make the rock Jock work that would be cool
i know the super duty 60 i built for the old tj had one- but it would need to be the same diameter and pitch to make the puter read it right for a speed signal. how wide did they end up being? i guess retubing the old housing will be good practice for the front and getting them in straight.
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Old June 13th, 2010, 03:58 PM   #8
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River Raider is working on something that will allow junkyard axles to work in a JK. Other than that, I'm not entirely sure how to pull it off. I have been thinking about calling Currie or Dynatrac and asking them how they make it work, and see if they will sell just those parts. Then again, for me, I don't need 60s so it's really a waste. I'm working on building a Rubi front 44 for my next JK that will have 35 spline axles and none of the weaknesses of the factory Rubi 44. And it'll all work like stock.
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Old June 13th, 2010, 07:46 PM   #9
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would a newer dodge aam axle have the correct tone ring for a jeep? it is chrysler after all. the diesel rear is a pretty beefy axle. not sure if arb makes a locker for it though.
just some random thoughts.
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Old June 13th, 2010, 08:15 PM   #10
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would a newer dodge aam axle have the correct tone ring for a jeep? it is chrysler after all. the diesel rear is a pretty beefy axle. not sure if arb makes a locker for it though.
just some random thoughts.
As far as I know, the companies selling JK axles are using Ford outers, but I'm not sure. I just don't know if there is more to it to make it work.
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Old June 13th, 2010, 11:26 PM   #11
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Does anyone know the OD of the OEM tone ring? I'm wondering if it can be put on the 1.5" axle shaft and then graft on a mount for the sensor to the tube, or if it's bigger, the back side of the flange under the dish of the rear rotor if you can live without the drum p-brake inside the disk.

Just some ideas....

I need to look into this also if I plan on keeping ABS on my silverado if I end up swapping a 60 into the front one of these days.
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Old June 14th, 2010, 10:12 AM   #12
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I take it you need the tone ring for the comp to work properly in the vehicle. If not, any GPS out there has a speedo built in. I'd put the parts that work the best and use your gps as your speedo......but that's me. If your drivetrain won't work without it, I guess that makes it kinda important
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Old June 14th, 2010, 09:27 PM   #13
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I take it you need the tone ring for the comp to work properly in the vehicle. If not, any GPS out there has a speedo built in. I'd put the parts that work the best and use your gps as your speedo......but that's me. If your drivetrain won't work without it, I guess that makes it kinda important
It just all depends on what you want to do. With a JK, EVERYTHING is integrated. Sure, you could swap in some junkyard axles, but then you would have about 4 lights on on your dash. I suppose you could then pull the bulbs though, but how ghetto would you want your rig?

Also, I just don't know how other things would be affected, like the throttle controlled traction control.

In the end, it shouldn't be that hard to make it work as stock. It's just a matter of figuring out the sensors at the wheels.
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Old June 15th, 2010, 06:28 AM   #14
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You could call Jim's Performance and see if he's reworked any computers for this application.
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Old June 15th, 2010, 07:29 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by oz97tj View Post
It just all depends on what you want to do. With a JK, EVERYTHING is integrated. Sure, you could swap in some junkyard axles, but then you would have about 4 lights on on your dash. I suppose you could then pull the bulbs though, but how ghetto would you want your rig?

Also, I just don't know how other things would be affected, like the throttle controlled traction control.

In the end, it shouldn't be that hard to make it work as stock. It's just a matter of figuring out the sensors at the wheels.
Any way to unplug the sensors at the wheels and see what it'll affect before going through the hassle?
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Old June 15th, 2010, 01:15 PM   #16
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Any way to unplug the sensors at the wheels and see what it'll affect before going through the hassle?
yup- speedo and odo doesnt work, CEL comes on. and i'm pretty sure unpluging and driving around without a odo will fall into the realm of odometer tampering laws.
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Old June 16th, 2010, 03:57 PM   #17
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yup- speedo and odo doesnt work, CEL comes on. and i'm pretty sure unpluging and driving around without a odo will fall into the realm of odometer tampering laws.
Obeying laws is for pussies...

I'm curious about the throttle. Does it go into a fault mode or will it still function like it should? Maybe I'll have to unplug the sensors to see...


I also like the idea of seeing if there are modded computers. That could be cheaper and easier than fitting 4 sensors on new axles, if it could be done.
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Old June 16th, 2010, 04:02 PM   #18
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yup- speedo and odo doesnt work, CEL comes on. and i'm pretty sure unpluging and driving around without a odo will fall into the realm of odometer tampering laws.
It was my assumption that as long as you checked the "mileage unknown" box when selling it, it didn't matter. I ASSume that though
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Old June 16th, 2010, 04:18 PM   #19
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I don't know who is right on the speedo thing. Checking mileage unknown doesn't automatically make things ok. Then again, modifying a vehicle isn't illegal either so it's hard to say. Also, if you are buying a JK with swapped in junkyard axles and a gps based speedo, you have to assume the odo isn't correct. lol

Not to mention, that law is only really enforced if somebody tried to sell something that had the odo modified for profit. I don't really think that applies to this scenario.
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Old June 24th, 2010, 06:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
Does anyone know the OD of the OEM tone ring? I'm wondering if it can be put on the 1.5" axle shaft and then graft on a mount for the sensor to the tube, or if it's bigger, the back side of the flange under the dish of the rear rotor if you can live without the drum p-brake inside the disk.

Just some ideas....

I need to look into this also if I plan on keeping ABS on my silverado if I end up swapping a 60 into the front one of these days.
petersons a while back swappeed a dodge aam front axle under a newer chevy cause the abs stuff was the same. just wired it to the factory dodge sensors and it worked. i know its not a good older 60, but under a tow rig it could work well. just a thought.
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