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Old May 20th, 2006, 08:22 PM   #1
Sonicjay
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Default How to (properly) replace stripped out trans skid nutserts

http://www.sonicjay.com/jeep/nutsert-repair.pdf

Quick, easy, and no doing this to your frame:
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 08:50 PM   #2
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Instead of going to the stealership for the nutserts, you can save a lot of money by going to the local harware store and buying grade 8 weld nusts. I think I paid 4 dollars total for all 6 of them.

I wrote this up a long time ago, but never added pictures.
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 11:03 PM   #3
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nice write up but i have 2 questions...

1) what about the many hours of cutting, grinding, sawing, swearing, cursing, etc.... to get the old bolts out because the f'ing insert is just spinning in the frame.

and

2) Why would I want to replace them with the same parts that lead to #1?

If I do it I'll replace them with something less failure prone.
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Old May 30th, 2006, 07:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewmenn
nice write up but i have 2 questions...

1) what about the many hours of cutting, grinding, sawing, swearing, cursing, etc.... to get the old bolts out because the f'ing insert is just spinning in the frame.

and

2) Why would I want to replace them with the same parts that lead to #1?

If I do it I'll replace them with something less failure prone.

BTW SonicJay very good right up.

maybe SonicJay wasn't clear, but the nut-serts are susposed to be welded to the frame already. if they are just spinning to the fact that you can't remove the bolt. then the fact is support the skid and cut the bolt heads off to a point that you can remove the skid. tack the old nut-serts into place to remove or drill out the rusted bolts. then continue on to the nut-serts. as for replacing the nut-serts with something better. that is up to you if you think you can find something better, easier, and as strong as the MFG then go for it and promote and sell it. you may become rich.

Last edited by TJrockdogg; May 30th, 2006 at 07:21 AM.
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Old May 30th, 2006, 07:22 AM   #5
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Here's how I did mine. I took some 3/4" wide stock and drilled a hole slightly larger than the bolt threads. I then welded a nut to the back side of it. Inserted it into the frame through the side access holes and aligned with the original bolt holes in frame. Then I threaded the bolt up and whoala. Success.
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Old May 30th, 2006, 10:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJrockdogg
BTW SonicJay very good right up.

maybe SonicJay wasn't clear, but the nut-serts are susposed to be welded to the frame already. if they are just spinning to the fact that you can't remove the bolt. then the fact is support the skid and cut the bolt heads off to a point that you can remove the skid. tack the old nut-serts into place to remove or drill out the rusted bolts. then continue on to the nut-serts. as for replacing the nut-serts with something better. that is up to you if you think you can find something better, easier, and as strong as the MFG then go for it and promote and sell it. you may become rich.
I wasn't the slightest bit confused about what SonicJay posted. My point is that I have never had the threads strip out of the insert, but 4 out of 6 of the inserts have broken free and just spun in the frame requiring the bolt to be cut to remove the skid. And the way the head is resesed in there it's not as easy as it sounds.

Now that I think about it and look at the picture of those inserts I don't think it's the welds failing, I think the insert itself is cracking. It's where the flat part meets the cylindrical part where it breaks. If the welds broke the skid would just fall off.

And they never have the decency to break at home, it's always been when working on it somewhere else where the only option was to drill holes in the frame and drop loose nuts and lock washers on the top of the bolts and try to get them to go tight with an impact.

What I've thought about doing (I think i saw this posted somewhere) is to enlarge the holes enough for a proper nut, then take a piece of steel, about 1/4 inch think, 1 1/2 inch wide, and long enough to cover all 3 holes on one side. Drill 3 holes matching the holes on the skid, and weld nuts to the top side. Then weld the whole thing to the bottom of the frame. repeat on other side.
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Old June 2nd, 2006, 09:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewmenn
What I've thought about doing (I think i saw this posted somewhere) is to enlarge the holes enough for a proper nut, then take a piece of steel, about 1/4 inch think, 1 1/2 inch wide, and long enough to cover all 3 holes on one side. Drill 3 holes matching the holes on the skid, and weld nuts to the top side. Then weld the whole thing to the bottom of the frame. repeat on other side.
What I did is similar except the flat stock is only like 2.5" long and individual for each nut. It is not welded into the frame at all, but rather inserted inside the frame, thus sandwiching the frame between the nut and the skid. Easy and the 2.5" stock keeps the nut from turning inside the frame. It also allows the nut to be pivoted at an angle if necessary to get the threads started before the skid is pressed fully against the frame (easier for lining up the 6 holes).
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Old June 3rd, 2006, 01:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc78cj7
What I did is similar except the flat stock is only like 2.5" long and individual for each nut. It is not welded into the frame at all, but rather inserted inside the frame, thus sandwiching the frame between the nut and the skid. Easy and the 2.5" stock keeps the nut from turning inside the frame. It also allows the nut to be pivoted at an angle if necessary to get the threads started before the skid is pressed fully against the frame (easier for lining up the 6 holes).
Yeah, I might just do that, sounds easier.
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Old June 8th, 2006, 04:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc78cj7
What I did is similar except the flat stock is only like 2.5" long and individual for each nut. It is not welded into the frame at all, but rather inserted inside the frame, thus sandwiching the frame between the nut and the skid. Easy and the 2.5" stock keeps the nut from turning inside the frame. It also allows the nut to be pivoted at an angle if necessary to get the threads started before the skid is pressed fully against the frame (easier for lining up the 6 holes).

Yep those are homemade flagnuts. I have fixed quite a few frames that way.
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Old June 16th, 2006, 09:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJrockdogg
as for replacing the nut-serts with something better. that is up to you if you think you can find something better, easier, and as strong as the MFG then go for it and promote and sell it. you may become rich.

you assume manufacturers use the strongest and best product... I would be willing to bet the nutzerts are made by the lowest bidder, and they were only made to withstand getting the skid bolted into place during production, and holding the skid in place when the vehicle is driven, maintenance isnt as high of priority is my guess.

I welded studs into the frame for the centers and nuts into the frame for the corners and ran new bolts/nuts on.
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Old July 11th, 2006, 01:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak81
you assume manufacturers use the strongest and best product... I would be willing to bet the nutzerts are made by the lowest bidder, and they were only made to withstand getting the skid bolted into place during production, and holding the skid in place when the vehicle is driven, maintenance isnt as high of priority is my guess.

I welded studs into the frame for the centers and nuts into the frame for the corners and ran new bolts/nuts on.
I like this idea, but might go studs all around.
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Old September 19th, 2006, 12:54 PM   #12
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Well Jay I had to fix one nutsert in my frame and did it the way your write up said, and it was beautifull. I welded that new sert in solid though but what the hell it dosent matter. Brewman is right the cylinder is breaking off from the flat washer part. And thanks to stan for the wleder.
ANd I owe ya a few beers for saving me twive now with these stupid nutsert things on my jeep. ANd I owe stan and KillerB beer also
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Old September 23rd, 2006, 08:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak81
you assume manufacturers use the strongest and best product... I would be willing to bet the nutzerts are made by the lowest bidder, and they were only made to withstand getting the skid bolted into place during production, and holding the skid in place when the vehicle is driven, maintenance isnt as high of priority is my guess.

I welded studs into the frame for the centers and nuts into the frame for the corners and ran new bolts/nuts on.

Actually, they are required to pass a torque test and a push through test in the range of 1500 pounds. Whenthey are originally installed, they are pretty robust, but after afew years of vibrations and a bit of rust, the nut looses a lot of its original bite, there are only little nibs on the nut that hold it in the first place.
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Old June 14th, 2008, 09:42 PM   #14
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WJ: Sonicjay, since the post is older the link to the pdf file goes to a "404" message. Can you the file? I need it bad.
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Old August 6th, 2009, 01:10 PM   #15
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I have 4 of the 6 bolts that snapped off in the nutsert the front 2 came out easy but the middle 2 and the back 2 snapped off up inside the nutsert. I like the welding the stud idea though so I might try that.
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Old August 24th, 2009, 08:43 PM   #16
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404 Page not found
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Old August 26th, 2009, 07:38 PM   #17
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Not Found

http://www.sonicjay.com/jeep/nutsert-repair.pdf

The requested URL was not found on this server.

お探しのURLはこのサーバーでは見つかりませんでした。

L'URL que vous avez sollicitée n'a pas été trouvée sur ce serveur.

Die URL, die Sie angefordert haben, wurde nicht auf diesem Server gefunden.



wtf kinda lang. is that?
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Old October 18th, 2009, 11:20 AM   #18
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Not Found

http://www.sonicjay.com/jeep/nutsert-repair.pdf

The requested URL was not found on this server.
Fixed, sorry 'bout that!
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Old December 13th, 2009, 04:19 AM   #19
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404!
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Old June 15th, 2010, 09:45 PM   #20
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Fixed; uploaded again
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