35 spline stubs wont fit through my d60 knuckle?? - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

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Old March 27th, 2010, 04:44 PM   #1
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Default 35 spline stubs wont fit through my d60 knuckle??

is this common? i could notch the knuckle to make it fit.
otherwise every time i need to remove the shaft i gotta take the knucle off.
its a ford hi pinion king pin axle.
sometimes kingpin knuckles dont wanna come off.

any ideas?? am i missing something obvious??
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Old March 27th, 2010, 07:02 PM   #2
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What brand shafts?
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Old March 28th, 2010, 12:18 AM   #3
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the stubs are dura solid brand. they used to be yukons old supplier(el cheapo india brand). there is tons of meat in the ears of the yoke. way more then on my 30 splines. i was told this was not uncommon, and depended on the the brand of stubs. 35 spline spicer inners fit through the knuckle no problem. 4 notches 1/8 inch deep would get me in.
its just a problem i didnt anticipate.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 10:05 AM   #4
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i bought spicer 35 spline stubs for my dodge dana 60 and they fit with no problem at all
never messed with a ford high pinion thats wierd that they wont fit.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 10:22 AM   #5
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the stubs are huge in the yoke area. im sure its strong, but its gonna be a pain to install and remove.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 11:04 AM   #6
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Measure the spread between the ears and compare it to what the u-joint is. It is a very common problem with some brands. My d44 yukons were like that and when I put them in the vice to bring them in, it broke. If the inside is where it should be then start grinding.

For what it's worth, my dad just got his superior d60 shafts a couple days ago and they look perfect and the measurements are pretty much perfect.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 11:09 AM   #7
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how much would you have to clearance off of the yoke for it to fit? i would grind on them until they fit it was me, it sucks to take metal away from somthing you want to keep strong but if it only a little grinding to make them fit it shouldnt hurt anything
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Old March 28th, 2010, 11:14 AM   #8
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just grind the knuckle a bit i had to do this on mine.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 11:19 AM   #9
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I had the same issue. I just ground a couple of small spots on the knuckle. Just enough to get the shaft through but it will only fit through that spot. It was minimal grinding and I don't think I gave up any strength.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 11:24 AM   #10
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I rounded the edges on the yukon stubs instead of the knuckle, plenty of meat there.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 11:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepaholic View Post
I rounded the edges on the yukon stubs instead of the knuckle, plenty of meat there.
I thought of that too, but if I was doing a trail repair I would either have no way to grind the stub or would have to grind it and test fit it ahead of time. I figured this way I could just throw it no worries or barrow on from a buddy and not have to grind on it.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 01:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
Measure the spread between the ears and compare it to what the u-joint is. It is a very common problem with some brands. My d44 yukons were like that and when I put them in the vice to bring them in, it broke. If the inside is where it should be then start grinding.

For what it's worth, my dad just got his superior d60 shafts a couple days ago and they look perfect and the measurements are pretty much perfect.
the joint is in them and the spice inner. the spread of the ears is fine.
the width of the yoke around the ujoint caps is bigger than the old spicer shafts.

new 35 spline outer a shade over 2 and 1/4. almost 2 and 3/8's

35 spline inner about 2 and 1/8th

old 30 spline outer. just a shade over 2 inches

in the the pics the tape measurements look weird. its cause of the taper of the shaft and camera perspective.

i wont take meat off the stub. i will notch the knuckle.

Last edited by joe_jeep; March 28th, 2010 at 02:02 PM.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 04:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepaholic View Post
I rounded the edges on the yukon stubs instead of the knuckle, plenty of meat there.
this is very common ....



or you can..
Quote:
Originally Posted by hosejockey4506 View Post
just grind the knuckle a bit i had to do this on mine.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 10:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepaholic View Post
I rounded the edges on the yukon stubs instead of the knuckle, plenty of meat there.
Ditto. You have to take about .030" off per corner. No big deal.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 10:21 PM   #15
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Ditto. You have to take about .030" off per corner. No big deal.
yup had to do that to
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 02:38 PM   #16
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they fit now! clearanced the knuckle just a tad.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 09:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
they fit now! clearanced the knuckle just a tad.
So you ground out a finish machined bore instead of dusting off the edges of a raw casting?
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Old April 4th, 2010, 09:54 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
So you ground out a finish machined bore instead of dusting off the edges of a raw casting?
X2 I would rather have the spindle fit right and lose a small amount of beef (still gonna be stronger than the stock inner or stub)
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Old April 4th, 2010, 10:43 AM   #19
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its was 2 small divits cut into the knuckle. bout 1/8 inch deep near the top center where there is plenty of meat left. the new spindle was still a tight fit. i could not put it in by hand. had to cinch it down with the bolts to seat it. i was not gonna take any meat off the stubs unless it was absolutly mandatory.

im sure either way would be fine, but i was afraid to mess with new stubs.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 10:53 AM   #20
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Have you ever heard that cutting grooves in a part creates a stress riser???
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