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Old March 17th, 2010, 02:09 PM   #1
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Default dana 44 help

i swaped the dana 44 in the front of my xj a couple of months ago and im not to happy with the stearing. i was thinking of going with a crossover setup but here is my prob. axle i installed in my jeep is out of a 88 grand wagoneer and knuckles are not flat top so they wont work. i do have a dana 44 out of an 86 ramcharger that has flat top knuckles. here is my questions

1 are the outers of a dana 44 interchangable? knuckles and hub assemblys.
dana 44 from rc is a 5 lug my wagoneer a 6 lug so can i run the knuckles from the ramcharger dana 44 and use my hub assembly from the wagoneer axle since i want the 6 lug pattern? also are stub shafts the same on the both axles?

if so i can sent the passenger side knuckle out to be tapped, anyone know a place to do that?

last if i do use crossover i know the draglink bar moves up to top of knuckes but how does the steering connect back up since the rc had it hooked to the driver side top of knuckle? anyone have any pics of how they did it?


thanks for any info.
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Old March 17th, 2010, 06:35 PM   #2
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oh and also who would i talk to or were would i go to get a couple of the gl4x4 stickers for my mud truck?
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Old March 17th, 2010, 06:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
i swaped the dana 44 in the front of my xj a couple of months ago and im not to happy with the stearing. i was thinking of going with a crossover setup but here is my prob. axle i installed in my jeep is out of a 88 grand wagoneer and knuckles are not flat top so they wont work. i do have a dana 44 out of an 86 ramcharger that has flat top knuckles. here is my questions

1 are the outers of a dana 44 interchangable? knuckles and hub assemblys.
dana 44 from rc is a 5 lug my wagoneer a 6 lug so can i run the knuckles from the ramcharger dana 44 and use my hub assembly from the wagoneer axle since i want the 6 lug pattern? also are stub shafts the same on the both axles?

if so i can sent the passenger side knuckle out to be tapped, anyone know a place to do that?

last if i do use crossover i know the draglink bar moves up to top of knuckes but how does the steering connect back up since the rc had it hooked to the driver side top of knuckle? anyone have any pics of how they did it?


thanks for any info.
what are you not happy with?

cross over steering would have a drag link, that attaches to your pitman arm, and your passenger knuckle. then a tie rod, that goes from knuckle to knuckle. a google image search would do wonders.


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oh and also who would i talk to or were would i go to get a couple of the gl4x4 stickers for my mud truck?
at the top of the page, is a link that says "store"
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Old March 17th, 2010, 10:22 PM   #4
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D44 parts are interchangeable, in fact, you are going the opposite way most people do. If you need a home for the 5 lug D44 outers, I would be happy to take them off your hands.

As far as the steering goes, you said crossover steering, but I think what you are meaning is high steering. Crossover steering refers to how the tie rod and drag link interact with each other. (as opposed to inverted Y, etc.)

If you have flat tops that you need milled, I recommend googling John Nutter enterprises.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 09:06 AM   #5
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D44 parts are interchangeable, in fact, you are going the opposite way most people do. If you need a home for the 5 lug D44 outers, I would be happy to take them off your hands.

As far as the steering goes, you said crossover steering, but I think what you are meaning is high steering. Crossover steering refers to how the tie rod and drag link interact with each other. (as opposed to inverted Y, etc.)

If you have flat tops that you need milled, I recommend googling John Nutter enterprises.
No he is correct, crossover means to a high steer arm on the pass. side and a tie rod across the factory steering arms. High steer is when everything is mounted to high steer arms (drag link and tie rod). When the drag link attaches to the tie rod near the pass. side knuckle it is a "T" style and inverted "Y" is the crappy factory tj setup.

That will be $50 for the education

OP; the crossover will require a new track bar mount to keep the drag link and track bar parallel to each other and will also limit up travel to keep the two from contacting the frame or if you are unlucky like me the radiator

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Old March 18th, 2010, 10:55 AM   #6
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Crossover steering is nothing more than a drag link that goes straight from the pitman arm to the knuckle without bolting to a tie-rod. CJ's have crossover steering from the factory. It does not involve "high" anything by definition. "High-steer" or just the drag link mounting high on the knuckle like the OP is talking about wanting to do are simply different crossover steering configurations.

CHEROKEEMUDMAN01, buy the knuckles as a matched set and have the pair of them machined. That way you already have it all if you decide to go with a full high-steer setup in the future.

You want the Jeep/Chevy knuckles identified here: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html
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Old March 18th, 2010, 12:33 PM   #7
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i was planing on the "high steer" setup. i ran the wagoneer stock steering and my xj drop steering arm on my gearbox so when you turn back and forth the drag link twists depending on which dirrection u turn. im thinking that its bacause of the angle i have my steering bar mounted to the draglink. the factory wagoneer was almost no angle and mine has a good angle to it. i do plan on raising the trac bar as of right now they are perfect, dont want bump steer for shure. thanks for the info guys.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 12:40 PM   #8
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Check the bolt pattern of the RamCharger axle, they were available with both the more conventional 5 on 5.5 pattern with an internally splined lockout/drive flange, seperate hub & spindle, and a 5 on 4.5 pattern psuedo unit bearing setup that brings the suck, both styles had flat-tops.

If the RC axle has a hub similar to your Waggy axle, you can use the Dodge knuckles and spindles with your 6-lug hubs, or even your waggy spindles, but you'll need to use the Dodge brakes with the Dodge knuckle because of the caliper stand design. An easier option would be to locate some Chevy/Jeep flat-tops, they are not that uncommon.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 12:47 PM   #9
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Check the bolt pattern of the RamCharger axle, they were available with both the more conventional 5 on 5.5 pattern with an internally splined lockout/drive flange, seperate hub & spindle, and a 5 on 4.5 pattern psuedo unit bearing setup that brings the suck, both styles had flat-tops.

If the RC axle has a hub similar to your Waggy axle, you can use the Dodge knuckles and spindles with your 6-lug hubs, or even your waggy spindles, but you'll need to use the Dodge brakes with the Dodge knuckle because of the caliper stand design. An easier option would be to locate some Chevy/Jeep flat-tops, they are not that uncommon.
what your saying in the first part is exactly what i was thinking of doing since i allready have the dodge flat top knuckles. why would the chevy of jeep be an easer option?
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Old March 18th, 2010, 12:50 PM   #10
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here is a pic of my steering right now (sorry only pic i have)



also here is my rearend i made. welded on rear disc brake brackets, chevy calipers,truss and did 1.5 wheel spacers the have the stock xj rear width.

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Old March 18th, 2010, 12:51 PM   #11
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i ran the wagoneer stock steering and my xj drop steering arm on my gearbox so when you turn back and forth the drag link twists depending on which dirrection u turn. im thinking that its bacause of the angle i have my steering bar mounted to the draglink.
Yes and no. your draglink is certainly pushing downward and pulling upward on the tie-rod and turning it, but it is more a matter of the TRE end design, where the head sits up high enough that it is allowed to flop over.

The more horizontal you get, the less tie-rod flop you'll experience. However, if getting the steering linkage up and out of the way is not necessarily the priority, you might want to try something simple and cheap first before you start tearing everything up and spending a chunk of $. (Or just throw them on while yo collect your parts.)

JCR uses these bushings as part of their 1-ton kits, which helps combat this problem. The JCR steering that was on my XJ was made prior to the introduction of the bushing and adding them made a huge difference in steering response (or lack thereof).


http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=S6


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Old March 18th, 2010, 12:57 PM   #12
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Yes and no. your draglink is certainly pushing downward and pulling upward on the tie-rod and turning it, but it is more a matter of the TRE end design, where the head sits up high enough that it is allowed to flop over.

The more horizontal you get, the less tie-rod flop you'll experience. However, if getting the steering linkage up and out of the way is not necessarily the priority, you might want to try something simple and cheap first before you start tearing everything up and spending a chunk of $. (Or just throw them on while yo collect your parts.)

JCR uses these bushings as part of their 1-ton kits, which helps combat this problem. The JCR steering that was on my XJ was made prior to the introduction of the bushing and adding them made a huge difference in steering response (or lack thereof).


http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=S6


funny when i bought the drag link it had the rubber bushing instead of a normal ball joint end and i thought it would have been a weaker setup. i actually am running the rubber joint you posted a pic of right now. thanks made me feel a little better about the setup.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 01:00 PM   #13
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also i am not planing on changing the setup right now since everything is new. i am going to put 8 or 10" of lift on this jeep by mid summer hopefully and run 36" tires i have allready. so i wanted to start collecting parts and getting the knuckles machined so everything would be ready when the time comes. thanks again for all the help guys this site is the best out there.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 01:01 PM   #14
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funny when i bought the drag link it had the rubber bushing instead of a normal ball joint end and i thought it would have been a weaker setup. i actually am running the rubber joint you posted a pic of right now. thanks made me feel a little better about the setup.
Although I suppose you can put it there also, it isn't primarily intended to go on the drag link. They go on both of the tie-rod TRE's at the knuckle steering arms to keep the tie-rod from tilting.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 01:17 PM   #15
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that is were they are, at the knuckles. i thought that was the drag link acording to my dodge parts book. that is the bar that runs from knuckle to knuckle right?
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Old March 18th, 2010, 02:14 PM   #16
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that is were they are, at the knuckles. i thought that was the drag link acording to my dodge parts book. that is the bar that runs from knuckle to knuckle right?
The name of the part depends on the type of steering system. If it runs knuckle-to-knuckle only, it is a tie-rod.

The parts that start at the pitman arm are the drag links, but OEM's call them retarded names - especially in an inverted-Y steering system where there isn't a part that goes knuckle-to-knuckle. Sometimes they even say "tie-rod, driver" and "tie-rod, passenger".

You have a tie-rod that connects the knuckles and a drag link that attaches to the tie-rod, so you have an inverted-T system. If your drag link went to the knuckle instead, you'd have a crossover system.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 02:26 PM   #17
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learn something new every day which makes today a sucess and time for bed lol
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Old March 18th, 2010, 09:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jeepaholic View Post
No he is correct, crossover means to a high steer arm on the pass. side and a tie rod across the factory steering arms. High steer is when everything is mounted to high steer arms (drag link and tie rod). When the drag link attaches to the tie rod near the pass. side knuckle it is a "T" style and inverted "Y" is the crappy factory tj setup.

That will be $50 for the education
Not to start a battle here, but I don't believe this to be correct. Crossover steering has nothing to do with being high-steer. You could build a crossover steering setup without flat top knuckles and high steer arms. Since the OP was talking about clearing his leafs, I tried to decipher his post as best I could.. Sorry if my (mis)information was confusing.
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Old March 19th, 2010, 09:33 PM   #19
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...why would the chevy of jeep be an easer option?
Chevy or Full Size Jeep knuckles would be easier because the spindles, hubs, caliper stands, calipers, pads, rotors, basically everything you're running now would bolt up.

Chevy knuckles would be the easiest, because the driver's knuckle is already drilled an tapped, the FSJ ones are blank on both sides. If you're lucky you can find some off an industrial axle (Zamboni or Ditch Witch) that are drilled and tapped on both, or even some 4x4 conversion axles have them (lots of FedEx vans and other 4x4 vans)
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Old March 20th, 2010, 08:21 PM   #20
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any ideas on what year chevy knuckles would bolt up to my setup. heading to some local junk yards tomorrow .
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