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Old January 10th, 2012, 03:44 PM   #21
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Old January 10th, 2012, 05:40 PM   #22
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I want to bring this back to top.

I'm trying to get a material list together along with figuring out what is the best route to go. I'l with the OP, want to keep the ground clearance but want to get the strength of a 60. I have a Front HP60 and a rear 60. My thought was to take out the shafts and outers and put them on some aftermarket housings and get a couple hi9 centers.

The massive cost is in the Hi9 housing/gears/lockers.

But MonkeyEvil says the D60 shafts won't work in a 9" housing?

I want to be around 62-63" WMS, and still get my front drive shaft to fit between the frame and I6 exhaust. I was pretty sure I was on the right road with 609's. Am I not on the right track here?
The splines are fine for most 9" carriers, the issue is larger seal surface OD of the 60 shaft need to be turned down to 1.5" or they won't fit into the carrier deep enough. If your dealing with a through hardened shaft this should pose no issues. Case hardened shafts may.

So either use custom 60 shafts with a 1.5" OD the full length, or make sure the OEM or OEM application shaft you want to use will lose no strength in that seal area if you turn it down.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 05:46 PM   #23
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I'l with the OP, want to keep the ground clearance but want to get the strength of a 60.
I've got Monkeyevil's old 609 and the ground clearance is CRAZY!! 42" PBRs at 5# gives me about 15.5" of clearance.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 08:31 AM   #24
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I see Currie ahd truehi9 has special third members for a high pinion 9. What's the difference in third members between a low pinion and high pinion? I know the gears need to be different, but what about the third members?
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Old January 12th, 2012, 08:59 AM   #25
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I dunno, but I was kicking this idea around a bit last week and I just can't find the justification for the cost.

Hell with an ARB you are talking $2800 just for the True Hi9. You have around $600 in a housing. Then another $2500 to get from the inner C's out to the WMS. Weld on bracket kit, assuming you don't make your own, was another $400. So at that point we are already well over $6000 into it and still don't have shafts or u joints. That was about when I said to hell with the idea. I'd imagine finished out that thing is flirting with 9k...

Weren't we having a discussion at the Mounds about how much just the cost of tires sucks?
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Old January 12th, 2012, 09:03 AM   #26
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They are different. I think primarily the oil passages. The Currie is actuall an 8.8. The True Hi9 is a custom 9" made by Richmond Gear. There is tons of info on the Hi9 website.

This is a great read and why I went with my hi9
http://www.truehi9.com/gears2.html

If I have my choice, I will never go back to a low pinion. I've had no problem with 4 years of hard wheeling.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 09:09 AM   #27
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They are different. I think primarily the oil passages. The Currie is actuall an 8.8. The True Hi9 is a custom 9" made by Richmond Gear. There is tons of info on the Hi9 website.

This is a great read and why I went with my hi9
http://www.truehi9.com/gears2.html
You old baller you...I didn't know you have a hi9.

IIRC back in the day Gavin(2 Track prez) had the Currie 9's in his TJ when they first came out and he was always destroying them. I don't know much more than that, maybe someone else has better specifics. Hell they may well have been completely redesigned by now...
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Old January 12th, 2012, 09:13 AM   #28
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A Currie 9 & a hi9 are nowhere the same. Period.

I only have mine in the back. No reason for a custom one in the front when you can land a HP D60 for a lot less. They're cool for comps but not for the 2-tracking Shawn will be doing.

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Old January 12th, 2012, 09:21 AM   #29
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A Currie 9 & a hi9 are nowhere the same. Period.

I only have mine in the back. No reason for a custom one in the front when you can land a HP D60 for a lot less. They're cool for comps but not for the 2-tracking Shawn will be doing.

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Yeah I'd say that is a hell of a lot more feasible when you are knocking off the 3k for housing and steering stuff.

And after watching Benny wheel a bit I see no reason to build something stronger than a D60...
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Old January 12th, 2012, 10:10 AM   #30
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I have a HP60. But my issue is running 35" tires on a D60, front or rear, and dragging on everything. If I ever thought I would run 37's then maybe I'll just mod the HP60 for what I need. Biulding a front 9" isn't going to cost much different than cusomizing this 60, EXCEPT for the cost of the friggin third member for a high pinion 9.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 10:16 AM   #31
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I have a HP60. But my issue is running 35" tires on a D60, front or rear, and dragging on everything. If I ever thought I would run 37's then maybe I'll just mod the HP60 for what I need. Biulding a front 9" isn't going to cost much different than cusomizing this 60, EXCEPT for the cost of the friggin third member for a high pinion 9.
Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to just get 37's?

What modding do you need to do to a 60 in a stock powered TJ to run 37's?
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Old January 12th, 2012, 10:26 AM   #32
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Just out of curiousity how much ground clearance difference are you going to gain running a hi9 over a currie rock jock 60? Seems like a cheaper way to go since you don't have to buy the uber expensive third member.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 10:32 AM   #33
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I have a HP60. But my issue is running 35" tires on a D60, front or rear, and dragging on everything. If I ever thought I would run 37's then maybe I'll just mod the HP60 for what I need. Biulding a front 9" isn't going to cost much different than cusomizing this 60, EXCEPT for the cost of the friggin third member for a high pinion 9.
If you are only going to run 35's then run a HP D44. Pick it up for dirt cheap, throw in some Randy's super joints and go wheeling.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 10:40 AM   #34
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Just out of curiousity how much ground clearance difference are you going to gain running a hi9 over a currie rock jock 60? Seems like a cheaper way to go since you don't have to buy the uber expensive third member.
Good question, I would like to know the answer to that.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 10:41 AM   #35
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If you are only going to run 35's then run a HP D44. Pick it up for dirt cheap, throw in some Randy's super joints and go wheeling.

If I wanted to keep the 4.0L, then I agree.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 11:34 AM   #36
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Honestly Shawn, I see engine as a very low part of the equation. It's the size of the tire that does the most damage to an axle shaft.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 11:41 AM   #37
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Honestly Shawn, I see engine as a very low part of the equation. It's the size of the tire that does the most damage to an axle shaft.
I would imagine it has even more to do with skill and finesse than anything.

It wasn't that long ago tires bigger than 35's and axles larger than D44's were just "crazy shit you see out west". Now if you aren't rolling on 42" stickies with built to the hilt one tons you get the

Although based on the way shawn is saying things I am thinking that this is just part of a larger plan that includes a V8 and bigger tires that he isn't telling us about. He's always seemed like a pretty smart guy.

Edit: When it comes to my TJ, hell even the JK, do you have any idea how many people have told me, "put a 60 in that thing and you will be all set", without even asking me what I plan on doing with it?

Sorry for being OT a bit...
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Old January 12th, 2012, 02:07 PM   #38
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OMGOMG! For as much as EVERYBODY (including myself) bitches about 30's and 44's, and biuld a 60 or go home............

I don't trailer my rig, I drive it. Daily if I want. I wheel it, maybe not as hard as many of you, but I've had my moments
I've broke D30 stuff, D44 stuff, with an 6 cylinder and an 8 cylinder. And I'm sure it's always because I don't know how to drive off road

I want reliability and strength without giving up my rigs ability. I want D60 strength with D30 clearance

Sure I can truss my D30 and spend $1500 on shafts and better ball joints and truss the inner c's, and upgrade to highsteer knuckles and BLAH BLAH BLAH.

I've bent a D30, and my current one is slightly bent already!

It's all just polishing a turd In my mind.

I'd strip my D60 housings and get a prorock housing if the gain in ground clearance is worth it.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 02:16 PM   #39
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I've bent a D30, and my current one is slightly bent already!
Didn't Nick wheel his TJ on 38.5's with a D30 front for years without issues? Maybe you do suck at driving...
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Old January 12th, 2012, 02:29 PM   #40
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OMGOMG! For as much as EVERYBODY (including myself) bitches about 30's and 44's, and biuld a 60 or go home............

I don't trailer my rig, I drive it. Daily if I want. I wheel it, maybe not as hard as many of you, but I've had my moments
I've broke D30 stuff, D44 stuff, with an 6 cylinder and an 8 cylinder. And I'm sure it's always because I don't know how to drive off road

I want reliability and strength without giving up my rigs ability. I want D60 strength with D30 clearance

Sure I can truss my D30 and spend $1500 on shafts and better ball joints and truss the inner c's, and upgrade to highsteer knuckles and BLAH BLAH BLAH.

I've bent a D30, and my current one is slightly bent already!

It's all just polishing a turd In my mind.

I'd strip my D60 housings and get a prorock housing if the gain in ground clearance is worth it.
You don't listen sonny. I said nothing about a D30. I said go with a HP D44. If you are only going to run 35's you don't need more than that. Take the money you save and keep it for the occasional (or almost never) repair. You don't need the extra weight of the D60, nor the extra costs that go with it. An engine swap in the future will have nothing to do with the axle. I ran well over 300 hp through a D30 on 35's, a D44 on 35's and 37's. Only when I wanted to go closer to 40" tires did it make sense. Even at that time, I had a full width D44 sitting in the garage ready to build up with alloy shafts. But, after watching a 37" tire break an alloy D44 shaft did I decide to go to a D60.

I'm serious. If my largest tire I planned to EVER run was a 35 or 36" tire, I would build up a D44 with alloy shafts and super joints.

That's my humble opinion.

oh, by the way, I've bent a D60 housing too. ANYTHING can be abused and broken.
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