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Old May 14th, 2010, 11:47 AM   #41
jakegp
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I rattle canned the back half of the heep a few weeks ago.

Its all about the process.

This is what I followed: 1) I sanded the original paint down till I got all the scratches
> out. 800 grit
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>
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> 2) Primered the doors with 2 thin coats. (Fills in any fine
> scratches left over)
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> 3) Wet sanded that. 800 grit
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> 4) Primered 2 more thin coats. (Final prep for paint)
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> 5) Wet sand. 1500 grit
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> 6) On spraying your paint make sure you put 1 thin coat and
> let it
> get tacky
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> 7) Then start applying paint with 3 medium coats. Wait 30-40
> minutes between coats. Let dry 48 hours
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> 8) Make sure you overlap with each stroke. That's the key in a
> good coat. If you don't you'll see each stroke when it dries.
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> 9) When you use spray paint the flash point or cure is not as
> fast
> as regular auto paint so it takes a while to cure.
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> 10) You are going to end up with some debris in the paint (nature of
> the beast)
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> 11) Get either 1800 or 2000 grit sand paper and wet sand them till
> there isn't any shine left on your panels.
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> 12) Don't get carried away and sand through the paint, you are just
> getting any debris or imperfections out of the paint.
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>
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> 13) You are now ready to buff them out. If you have a high rpm
> buffer
> it will go faster, just don't burn through the paint, if not just take
> your time and they will shine like a new penny.



Sounds like a lot of work but it goes fast.


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Old May 14th, 2010, 12:12 PM   #42
trailranger
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i plan on spraying mine this summer
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Old August 17th, 2010, 10:51 PM   #43
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I used some krylon camo (olive drab). I really did not like how the paint layed down. I understand that spray paint is cheap, But i have had alot better success with other kinds of spray paint. Overall I don't mind the finished product other than some lines that I couldn't fix on the hood. It also had a spot on the side of the jeep that ended up looking like a zebra after the first 2 coats, but I was able to fix it.
I am not totally blaming the paint tho, as I have not done much work with flat spray paint, and the paint being flat could be part of the reason it did not spray as good as other colors.
I will post some pictures tomorrow not that I have more room in the barn, and can get better pics.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 09:31 PM   #44
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I have painted all the sheet metal on my cj2a project with rustoleum deep forest green camo rattle can. the only issues I have had was early on when i had some issues with it over a high build primer. if I used a high fill I went over it after sanding with a regular black primer then sand that before starting to apply top coats. if the primer sits for any length of time I wipe down with a tack cloth or alcohol on a lint free cloth. I spray the camo in light coats with until I have complete coverage. then once dry for a few days i will sand that even, clean and spray final coats. If you are getting stripes you are too close. also on the camo stuff mask off any already finished areas from overspray as it will make the finish very rough.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 09:38 PM   #45
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Huskey brand spray gun with some Dark grey auto primer from car quest thinned 50/50
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Old August 29th, 2010, 11:06 PM   #46
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Here are some pics now that I got my barn cleaned out enough to be able to get the whole jeep in one pic.



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Old August 29th, 2010, 11:31 PM   #47
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Default dont use a spray bomb

As cheap as a harbor freight spray gun is and $27 a gallon implement paint from TSC there is no excuse to use a rattle can.you can do a good job for about $100 total. I spent about $300 total for all body and paint supplies for my jeep restoration. That was 2 gallons of real milspec camo paint, hardener, wax and grease remover, fiberglass, bondo, spotputty, thinner, epoxy primer, sandpaper, a crap load of masking tape, everything.

However prep is everything.
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