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Old February 16th, 2010, 10:31 PM   #81
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Alll I'm saying is from my personal expierence if you want lock outs then Teraflex are better then Warn IMO but for pure brute then slugs can't be beat.
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Old February 17th, 2010, 07:17 AM   #82
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Wow, Rc60, seems mighty hard.
Yes it does. 8620 is carburized so it's only a case hardness. Again, not the best choice of material for the application IMO. It's also very rare to see a spline hardened to that. You can't cut it so it has to be ground which is expensive to manufacture. Not even sure how you would grind that small of an ID. This leads me to believe they cut them and then harden them without finishing after heat treat which means they are inconsistent when they move during heat treat.

Not my first choice.
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Old February 17th, 2010, 07:33 AM   #83
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Prob just get me warns warrenteed and get a set of flanges for offroad. Not like it takes forever to swap them out.......i'll just have to learn how to do it myself
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Old February 17th, 2010, 08:59 AM   #84
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I'm not sure what model Becky posted but if anyone is looking at drive flanges make sure you get some that can have the drive gear removed. (I saw the ones she posted are removable but I dont know what mfg. they are because I cant see the picture)

rcv performance relabels spidertrax as far as I can tell, spidertrax are very nice, AA Fab makes a pretty nice one. If you dont care about removing the drive gear then Longfield or CTM make some pretty nice 300m drive gears.
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Old February 17th, 2010, 09:30 AM   #85
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They were poly performance, i found them thru a google link on pirate4x4.

FYI.......ive been calling all over f*cking town to get these POS warns warrenteed........either they dont carry them, wont warrenty because i didnt buy from them or only carry the 30 spline. The people at Napa were very nice, however the guy at Mazza was a complete ass! I will still get them warrenteed.....eventually! but flanges are on my buy now list.

i will check spidertrax as well....thx
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Old February 17th, 2010, 10:35 AM   #86
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Thank you unlimitedoffroad for getting the warrenty done for me!
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Old February 17th, 2010, 03:18 PM   #87
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I'm not sure what model Becky posted but if anyone is looking at drive flanges make sure you get some that can have the drive gear removed. (I saw the ones she posted are removable but I dont know what mfg. they are because I cant see the picture)
AA Fabs are actually made by Summit Machine, i found this out when I was installing mine and saw the Summit machine logo etched into the back of the gear

They are pretty nice and reasonably priced.
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Old February 18th, 2010, 02:20 PM   #88
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They were poly performance, i found them thru a google link on pirate4x4.

FYI.......ive been calling all over f*cking town to get these POS warns warrenteed........either they dont carry them, wont warrenty because i didnt buy from them or only carry the 30 spline. The people at Napa were very nice, however the guy at Mazza was a complete ass! I will still get them warrenteed.....eventually! but flanges are on my buy now list.

i will check spidertrax as well....thx
you have the bill of sale from the last ones. just call klotz in hart and they will take care of it.
you have a front arb so you can run flanges. the only thing is you will need a new front driveshaft because yours is bent.it will be locked in all the time.so you wont want to run down the road with the shaft you have on there now.

i am glad you listened jim!!! good choice not doing the warn.
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Old February 18th, 2010, 02:22 PM   #89
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you have the bill of sale from the last ones. just call klotz in hart and they will take care of it.
you have a front arb so you can run flanges. the only thing is you will need a new front driveshaft because yours is bent.it will be locked in all the time.so you wont want to run down the road with the shaft you have on there now.

i am glad you listened jim!!! good choice not doing the warn.
i already have it handled locally. Wont be locked all the time, i'll get the flanges with the slug so it wont be an issue.

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Old February 27th, 2010, 10:04 PM   #90
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Well, After changing to new lockouts it's official. The problem was not in the hubs. Ordering a spool on Monday.
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Old February 27th, 2010, 10:13 PM   #91
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How much for the locker
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Old February 27th, 2010, 11:06 PM   #92
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So did tractech (or whoever owns them now) give you any idea on what the issue may be, like a spring or something?
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Old February 28th, 2010, 07:25 AM   #93
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How much for the locker
Haven't decided to sell it yet but I'll let you know. Since most people think there's really nothing wrong with it, make me an offer.

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So did tractech (or whoever owns them now) give you any idea on what the issue may be, like a spring or something?
I haven't contacted them yet. First plan was to isolate the noise. Now that I know I need to rip the front end down I'll chase them.
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Old February 28th, 2010, 09:32 AM   #94
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Jim, I run an ARB in the front and love it. Cost is high on it. But since I currently do not have hydro assist steering it really helps me to be able to unlock in the tight trails so I can maneuver better. Plus I do run mine on the street alot so it does help there as well. I would also think that since I do not keep mine front locked in most of the time on the trial, that I put less bind stress on my axle shafts and axle joints...IMO
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Old February 28th, 2010, 09:39 AM   #95
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Brian,
I ran ARB's both front and rear in the past. Had some problems with the rear and went to spool. When I did the 60's I felt I didn't want the risk of blowing out an o-ring on the trail. Simplicity was my motto. That's why I went with the Detroit. I think by vote it would be considered the best and most reliable with all around features. 2 years later it has to come out for repairs? WTF?

I don't like the idea of having to unlock my hubs all the time but a spool is about as dependable as it gets.
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Old February 28th, 2010, 10:08 AM   #96
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I don't like the idea of having to unlock my hubs all the time but a spool is about as dependable as it gets.
My guess is that you will lock in your hubs when you hit dirt, and unlock them when you get back to pavement to drive to camp. No different than with your Detroit.

Too bad you don't have an twin-stick t-case yet. Then you could put a line-lock on the rear and do digs to get a better turning radius.
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Old February 28th, 2010, 10:44 AM   #97
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Jim,

Just my .02 but when I was setting up my axles I did a lot of research. I don't think I'd want a spool in the front unless I was running a full hydro and even then I don’t think I’d do it based on how we actually use our vehicles. I would figure out what's wrong with the Detroit and repair it, see if it will last the second time. Also, I've had great luck in contacting the manufacturers for products to get things covered. Get with Eaton and see if they will work with you… They may want to see what happened so that they can make sure it’s not a defect they have to address in their product. Try to repair the Detroit and see what happens with it.
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Old February 28th, 2010, 11:30 AM   #98
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Paul,
I ran a welded front end for about 4 years. Never had a problem. I really don't care if Eaton will work with me. Means nothing to me. I want dependability and maintenance free. I can spend 1/3 the cost on a spool and never worry about it. Right now I've got a $600 investment that I have to pull out to fix. It's like lifetime warranty on lockouts or u-joints that you have to keep replacing. Sure it's free but it's a pain in the ass. Johnny's description above about spells it out. The only time I see it being an issue is someplace like the dunes where I never unlock them for the entire time I'm there. My suspicion is the only people that say I won't like a spool are those who have never run a welded or spooled front.

Full locked in the front is not different than having an ARB that's locked in. Hydro assist will work fine with it. Will I go full hydro in the future? Maybe.

John,
Front dig is in the future but not for another year.
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Old February 28th, 2010, 01:21 PM   #99
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My guess is that you will lock in your hubs when you hit dirt, and unlock them when you get back to pavement to drive to camp. No different than with your Detroit.

Too bad you don't have an twin-stick t-case yet. Then you could put a line-lock on the rear and do digs to get a better turning radius.
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Old February 28th, 2010, 01:53 PM   #100
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get the welder out then!! i have no issues with mine being locked and i have been running 3 years without any hydro anything.yea in some of the comps it would of been nice to turn sharper.but i know it is always locked in..i totally hated that p.o.s. arb in beckys jeep..always something not working.lines getting pulled out ,seals going bad, running out of co2...they are great when they work.but i like knowing it is always locked!!
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