Local 12V cummins performance Guru's ?? - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

Go Back   Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > 4x4 Talk > Dodge Tech
GL4x4 Live! GL4x4 Casino

greatlakes4x4.com is the premier Great Lakes 4x4 Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Search
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old February 10th, 2010, 08:15 PM   #1
mudbillyredneck
Senior Member
 
mudbillyredneck's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-17-08
Location: Lapeer, MI
Posts: 4,733
iTrader: (133)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Question Local 12V cummins performance Guru's ??

I'm looking to completely go through a 12V cummins I recently bought , and am going to build it for performance ?

I do want it to be streetable and even capible of choring (pulling trailors, plowing..ect )


You think I should consider fire ringing it , since the block needs a bore job and new pistons anyway ??

Can anyone tell me or recomend a local guru...other than Mike Hallas= he's a great guy...just want a second opinion ??


I have recently made a few good business decisions, and can aford to build this now without running out of funds

Last edited by mudbillyredneck; February 11th, 2010 at 11:09 AM.
mudbillyredneck is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old February 11th, 2010, 10:02 PM   #2
Coal Burner
MAKE IT OR BREAK IT
 
Coal Burner's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-11-10
Location: Hudson,MI
Posts: 11
iTrader: (0)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Heres my two cents:

I've built a couple 12 valves now and theres a couple of ways you can go. With you stating that funds are not an issue. I would turn your pump up ie. mack rack travel plug, 4kgsk, 191 dvs, .093 dv holders and a fuel plate. Now with pump work comes head work like you stated fire rings (NO) fire rings are more likely to crack in everyday heat cycles, I recommend o-ringing the block. I say the block b/c even though your head is torqued down it still can move on the block. The difference is that you have the groove cut in to the block not the head w/ the groove in the block there is more material and lesser chance that it will let loose on you. The guy I go to is in Fenton Mi his name is Dyrall Poole, Dyralls Diesel Depot if you want his number PM me. The best towing setup granted that $ in not an issue is to go w/ a set of tripple turbos they cost about as much as set of twins. Turbos for everyday driving would be a set of 35/40 hybirds cost you about 3k for the setup granted that you can do the fab work. With all that air and fuel you want to do a set of 12mm head studs not 14 mm b/c you take away too much material and thin your cylinder walls. Depending on what you have for a tranny manual or auto I have done both I can recommend either way.

Sorry for being so long winded but I like to help when I can, Chris
Coal Burner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 11th, 2010, 10:13 PM   #3
Fidget56
Senior Member
 
Fidget56's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-19-07
Location: Leonard Mi
Posts: 503
iTrader: (5)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

Mike Hallas
Fidget56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 11th, 2010, 10:28 PM   #4
Coal Burner
MAKE IT OR BREAK IT
 
Coal Burner's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-11-10
Location: Hudson,MI
Posts: 11
iTrader: (0)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coal Burner View Post
Heres my two cents:

I've built a couple 12 valves now and theres a couple of ways you can go. With you stating that funds are not an issue. I would turn your pump up ie. mack rack travel plug, 4kgsk, 191 dvs, .093 dv holders and a fuel plate. Now with pump work comes head work like you stated fire rings (NO) fire rings are more likely to crack in everyday heat cycles, I recommend o-ringing the block. I say the block b/c even though your head is torqued down it still can move on the block. The difference is that you have the groove cut in to the block not the head w/ the groove in the block there is more material and lesser chance that it will let loose on you. The guy I go to is in Fenton Mi his name is Dyrall Poole, Dyralls Diesel Depot if you want his number PM me. The best towing setup granted that $ in not an issue is to go w/ a set of tripple turbos they cost about as much as set of twins. Turbos for everyday driving would be a set of 35/40 hybirds cost you about 3k for the setup granted that you can do the fab work. With all that air and fuel you want to do a set of 12mm head studs not 14 mm b/c you take away too much material and thin your cylinder walls. Depending on what you have for a tranny manual or auto I have done both I can recommend either way.

Sorry for being so long winded but I like to help when I can, Chris
Nevermind all my blabbering I just read your turbo post thought you had a P-Pumped Cummins not a VE
Coal Burner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 12th, 2010, 07:27 AM   #5
mudbillyredneck
Senior Member
 
mudbillyredneck's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-17-08
Location: Lapeer, MI
Posts: 4,733
iTrader: (133)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coal Burner View Post
Nevermind all my blabbering I just read your turbo post thought you had a P-Pumped Cummins not a VE
I have severeral in my collection...the VE is a trail rig recovery vehicle

The newest motor in my collection is a 92 block ....but it's going into a nicer superduty so I dont mind any and all upgrades
mudbillyredneck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 16th, 2010, 08:19 AM   #6
matt440rev
Member
 
Join Date: 01-29-10
Location: charlotte
Posts: 45
iTrader: (1)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

ditch the ve pump, and forget mike hallas number if you dont want to spend $5000 on 300hp. the old rotary pumps are capable of making decent numbers, but its a bit tougher to do than with the 7100 in the newer ones. swap out for a 913 pump and your going to save money in the long run, as well as having way more fun with more power. like chris said, theres a lot of free pump tunes you can do yourself, but steer clear of full cut dv's with that pump. and with the dd/toy, go with o-rings instead of fire rings, and just send the head out to have em done, just because if you ever get the "bug" and want to go big, your blocks still a clean slate to start with. you can re tq your stock head bolts and they hold pretty good with rings, but a $350 set of studs are cheap insurance if your going to be running a lot of timing. tripples are the best choice, just really hard to fab (im in the process of making some for mine) but twins are easy and cheap. you dont need 3 hybrid turbos, 3 stockers will work just fine, look at your hp goal and the air flow out of those stockers, you can easily hit 1200cfm out of a pair of stockers. and do it for around $500 that way, and still support 6-700hp. go with a good auto, you'll be glad you did. get a m&j tool converter, and a dunrite vb, along with a suncoast hp rebuild kit and billet input shaft.


sounds fun, if you ever need a extra set of hands, or a drinkin buddy while workin on this, give me a hollar, hot to far away from ya.

good luck with the build.

matt
matt440rev is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > 4x4 Talk > Dodge Tech

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:31 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin, Copyright 2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
Page generated in 0.49813 seconds with 38 queries