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Old January 30th, 2010, 10:06 AM   #21
chevybtk
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yeah what kind of muffler should i run?
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Old January 30th, 2010, 10:54 AM   #22
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yeah temp sensors brand new........muffler? and like a cold air intake?
A cold air intake can lead to lowered mileage. Better performance, but poorer mileage. I ran a Summit turbo cat back system on my '98 Z71. It sounded great (not load, but nice), easy install, decent price. No change in mileage from stock system. It probably weighed 20lbs less than the stock system too!
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Old January 30th, 2010, 11:09 AM   #23
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I have a '93 chevy 1500 with the 4.3 tbi. I have cragar steel wheels with 31s, a glass pack, complete tune-up, and I get 13 mpg if I am a feather foot.
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Old January 30th, 2010, 11:57 AM   #24
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nice yeah just wondering....yeah iv got to do a tune up asap
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Old January 30th, 2010, 12:09 PM   #25
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yeah what kind of muffler should i run?
hay rainman i think you should ask that question a few more times
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Old January 30th, 2010, 02:23 PM   #26
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I got one word "diesel" lol drop a cummins in there
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Old January 30th, 2010, 04:47 PM   #27
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I have a '93 chevy 1500 with the 4.3 tbi. I have cragar steel wheels with 31s, a glass pack, complete tune-up, and I get 13 mpg if I am a feather foot.
what gears do you have. that seems really low for yours?
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Old January 30th, 2010, 04:51 PM   #28
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what gears do you have. that seems really low for yours?
i think they are 3.42
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Old January 30th, 2010, 05:27 PM   #29
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well as being an ex Chevy tech after many years I see the same stuff repeated over and over on them. this should help you see where things have gone wrong for you.

1. Tires;
if you have over sized the tires based on style and not the output of your driveshaft rpms, then you have shot your self in the foot.
if you change tire size and loose mileage then you need to change gears to get the rpm back in the optimum power/mileage band. simple math if you cut 200 rpm off from the tire diameter then you need to put it back with gears.

2. exhaust.
most people don't consider the output of exhaust. if your making .5 to 1.0 psi your in the right range. if your making way less like open headers then you need to feed the engine. it will adjust accordingly by fattening up your fuel stream to make you more power since you opened the output volume up.
TBI's and other fuel injection need some back pressure to hold up the exhaust fumes long enough to get a reading, so if there is a great big hole of an exhaust behind the O2 sensor then it dumps fuel to get more of a reading in the lack of pressure. some of this can be cured by using an emulator instead of a real sensor if you have to have that big exhaust.

3. sound.
If by chance your like every other person who likes the roar of an engine you tend to drive by sound. I have found over the years that if it sounds great the milage most likely sucks. the idea being that most folks can't keep their foot out of it even in normal city driving. consider a vacuum gauge. it will take some of the fun out of the driving in one respect, but you will thank me later. if you keep the throttle at optimum vacuum then you will see fuel savings. if its always low then you have an issue with your foot or something else.

4. Drive line;
on the good side one might expect good performance from a vehicle based on the lack of 4wd. its not always true. the spinning mass of extra parts does contribute to the loss of economy. it doesn't take into account that you have extra wheels driving.
if you have the ability to take spinning mass out of the drive line then you can reduce drag on the engine and incress mileage.

5. chrome;
long story short it does little or no good putting shiny crap on the engine for mileage. it has little or no effect.

6. extras;
in the form of shit hanging off the outside of the vehicle. if the factory didn't put it there how aerodynamic is it now? I know then giant tractor trailer mirrors are cool. I had them myself once...once. they eat at least a couple miles off the tank just cutting wind hanging there. other stuff is worse like light bars and headache racks. if its just for show let it go.

7. tail gates and the lack of;
its been beat to death. gates down suck fuel by flushing the aerodynamic effect of cargo roll. if the gates gone its just the same. cargo nets do nothing to help either.

8. engines;
yes you can have good mileage with a big block. in the advent you have a bigger engine look to the trans and gears to help you. if you make more torque then the average engine then you may have the ability to upgrade your trans and gearing to better your rig. if you do loads of highway driving and towing do you really need 4:56/1 gears? seems a waste. do the math on the gear sets to see what the optimum power band match is for your needs. might cost $$$ up front to change gears but the fuel saving would pay it back in spades.
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Old January 30th, 2010, 05:29 PM   #30
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A cold air intake can lead to lowered mileage. Better performance, but poorer mileage. I ran a Summit turbo cat back system on my '98 Z71. It sounded great (not load, but nice), easy install, decent price. No change in mileage from stock system. It probably weighed 20lbs less than the stock system too!
It'll lead to lower mileage if you get a cheap junky cold air intake, the better the air flow and the cooler the air the better performance and mpgs

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The 285's are much heavier over the stock 245's. That adds a lot more rotating weight to overcome. I've watched mileage drop on two of my trucks after going to a bigger and heavier tire. My GMC Canyon was the worst. I went from the stock 235's to a 30x9.5 LT and lost 2mpg!
88-98 stock chevys/gmcs came standard with 265/75-R16s, which is what just about all of the stock trucks have on them, the 245/75-R16 was an option, you don't see many 4x4s with 245s on them. And the 285 is not that much bigger than a 265, even not that much bigger than a 245
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Old January 30th, 2010, 05:29 PM   #31
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i think they are 3.42
I just wondering if you went to big on the tires vs stock gear size? if you would what does the door jam say as recommended tire size? it might help to figure out where you should be for gears
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Old January 30th, 2010, 05:33 PM   #32
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You should junk the crappy glasspack and put on either a flowmaster or magnaflow muffler with either a highflow cat or stock cat whatever you want, the cat wont make much of a difference as far as mpgs are concerned, but a highflow cat will free up about 5-10 hp. The performance, or so called anyway muffler will let your engine breath better and run a bit cooler, which will definitally free up some miles per gallon. But do not, i repeat do not use a knockoff muffler, anything that says it's a flowmaster knock off or flowmaster sound, whatever, it's pretty much junk. Flopros, thrush turbo all junk, which is what I have the thrush muffler, it's junk
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Old January 30th, 2010, 05:46 PM   #33
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I just wondering if you went to big on the tires vs stock gear size? if you would what does the door jam say as recommended tire size? it might help to figure out where you should be for gears
Door jamb says stockers are 235-75-r15. The truck is a single cab long bed 2wd.
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Old January 30th, 2010, 05:48 PM   #34
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I have a '93 chevy 1500 with the 4.3 tbi. I have cragar steel wheels with 31s, a glass pack, complete tune-up, and I get 13 mpg if I am a feather foot.
That is bad. I have a 97 single cab long bed with a 454 and it gets 11-12 in the city.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 09:26 AM   #35
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It'll lead to lower mileage if you get a cheap junky cold air intake, the better the air flow and the cooler the air the better performance and mpgs
http://www.gassavers.org/showthread....&highlight=wai
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Old January 31st, 2010, 11:12 AM   #36
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dang, thats crazy. my 92 350 with vortec heads and a full exhaust gets about 16-17 on the highway and about 12-14 in the city
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Old January 31st, 2010, 11:48 AM   #37
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Any other opinions???
Sell it and buy this


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Old January 31st, 2010, 11:52 AM   #38
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My 1992 k 1500 5.7 liter gets 10mpg highway and about 6 city..... is there anyway i can increase that or what kinda of pluga and stuff to run in it, or set up to increase that i have a cherrybomb w/no cat on there now w/duel 2-1/2 after muffler and dumps and rear axle, should i take that off and put a regular muffler on?..... I have standard AC wires, autolite copper plugs, 285-75-16 tires (but look goofy with smaller tires because i have a 3 inch body lift)....and also truck has very little power.......Could trans need replacing it has a bout 250K on it that dosent like OD on e-way but will stay in if i dont use cruise.........just need some advice guys......what should i run...
you can sell it and get something different
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Old January 31st, 2010, 06:50 PM   #39
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88-98 stock chevys/gmcs came standard with 265/75-R16s, which is what just about all of the stock trucks have on them, the 245/75-R16 was an option, you don't see many 4x4s with 245s on them. And the 285 is not that much bigger than a 265, even not that much bigger than a 245
I have seen alot more 88-98 chevy trucks calling for 245 tires then the 265s.the 265s came with the z71 package. just because they have them on the truck doesnt mean that is what is suppose to be on it. a 285/75/16 is around the same size as a 33 inch tire and the 265/75/16 is around a 31 inch tire...going from a 245 to a 285 is almost 2 1/2 inches taller.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 08:16 PM   #40
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thanks....
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