Cage Design Ideas - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

Go Back   Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > 4x4 Talk > Fabrication and body armor
GL4x4 Live! GL4x4 Casino

greatlakes4x4.com is the premier Great Lakes 4x4 Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Search
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old September 9th, 2009, 04:25 PM   #1
LuckyCharm4x4
Senior Member
 
LuckyCharm4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-26-06
Location: South Lyon/Kzoo, MI
Posts: 960
iTrader: (11)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to LuckyCharm4x4 Send a message via Skype™ to LuckyCharm4x4
Arrow Cage Design Ideas

I have a few projects planned for the Lucky Charm, all of them are stemming from or needing the roll cage done first. I decided to start designing a cage but I need input/ideas. I am really just starting to research it, so I could be going about this all wrong.

Plans:
- Get Seats and 4pt harnesses.
- Retain access to the rear seat through the front door
- Mount both front and rear seats to the cage
- Tie the cage to the frame
- Be able to use hard top and soft top
- Hard doors must be useable
* Finite Element analysis


* I will probably design the cage in Pro/E and do a finite element analysis so I can see how strong it is and where the weak points are. I am currently in the class learning how to do it, so I'll wait until I get good at it then post my results. I will also have to take measurements to get the drawing to scale as right now the drawing is just thrown together.


Current Rollbar:



Here is a round idea/start for you guys to tear up: (it will have gussets and other things, I am just getting a quick rough idea out there to see if I am heading in the right direction.) I think it may need some triangulation in the rear window area.


I changed the color so you can tell the differences of some of the bars starting and ending points:


Front:


Side:


Top:
LuckyCharm4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old September 9th, 2009, 05:56 PM   #2
Monkeyevil
I <3 Miatas
 
Monkeyevil's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-05-05
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 8,988
iTrader: (16)
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to Monkeyevil
Default

I'd rake the windshield and c hoop more. Just my opinion though.

For belts and seat room that b hoop is going to have to lean back at least 10 degrees. Even then your b hoop bracing is going to have to have a bend in it to clear seat backs. If your looking for ultimate strength you want to try and brace the outside nodes on the perimeter with triangles. Your top bracing from B to C is fine, do it that way all the time. The to bracing from A to B is done a lot in sport cages and when headroom is tight. If your going for capacity to take a hit on the top of the A hoop, you want to run your spreaders from the center of the B hoop to the outside corners of the A.

All the above applies only if your willing to give up your vision for strength. I've built a lot of cages, so for mine I took what I had in my head and had mike draw it and we bent it up. There are few places where a hit will deform the cage enough to scrap it. I have no question on it's ability to save our lives though... I just don't care if it gets destroyed doing it.


__________________
JcrOffroad
Zoom Zoom!

Last edited by Monkeyevil; September 23rd, 2009 at 12:53 PM.
Monkeyevil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 22nd, 2009, 03:59 PM   #3
DUNE JUMP
...
 
DUNE JUMP's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-29-06
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 1,224
iTrader: (22)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

I have always liked putting a slight bend on top connecting tubes where they intersect hoops, etc. In my opinion, it requires more tube deformation before it causes a life-threatening failure at the cage node.

DUNE JUMP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 22nd, 2009, 04:13 PM   #4
95geo
newbie
 
95geo's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-05-05
Location: dryden
Posts: 5,777
iTrader: (6)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

I think theres a lot of useless bends in it that dont need to be there. Beyond that my personal preference is that I dont like hoops or halo's. I like "one" tube that runs the A pillar past the B pillar and turns into the C pillar or rear spreader so that it's harder to get hung up on trees and stuff. It gives you more interior room too in the corners.

$0.02
95geo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 22nd, 2009, 04:31 PM   #5
trailrail302
Im going FAST!!!
 
trailrail302's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-22-07
Location: north of the equator
Posts: 3,487
iTrader: (10)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Default

I agree with having one continous tube from A-pilar back. My chassis is that way slides off things better and it gives it a cleaner look. I do like the halo look in the back $.02

Last edited by trailrail302; September 22nd, 2009 at 04:36 PM.
trailrail302 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 23rd, 2009, 11:55 AM   #6
Plato2k5
In Da Faaaaaace!!!
 
Plato2k5's Avatar
 
Join Date: 12-25-05
Location: WMU Kzoo Mi / Livonia, MI
Posts: 5,448
iTrader: (17)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to Plato2k5
Default

I drew mine out... than when I actually started to bend, new ideas came to me that made more sense.
Plato2k5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 15th, 2010, 04:40 PM   #7
LuckyCharm4x4
Senior Member
 
LuckyCharm4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-26-06
Location: South Lyon/Kzoo, MI
Posts: 960
iTrader: (11)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to LuckyCharm4x4 Send a message via Skype™ to LuckyCharm4x4
Default

I appreciate the input guys, keep it coming!

I have changed my ideas around due to looking up the cost of steel tubing and such. I came up with a new design that is just add-on's to my existing stock YJ rollbar. Below you can see my new design idea. The light color is the existing bar and the dark pieces are the additions. This design would be straight forward and decently simple. I think that this is way better than what I have now, and what most people wheel with. What do you think?

the main reason for keeping the "sport bar" is I might put an overhead console between the bars. right now I have no where safe to keep my radio/CB so I don't even run it. But I do realize it's not quite as strong.



~Bry

Last edited by LuckyCharm4x4; January 15th, 2010 at 04:45 PM.
LuckyCharm4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 16th, 2010, 01:35 PM   #8
kj kyle
Senior Member
 
kj kyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-06-09
Location: SWMI
Posts: 2,200
iTrader: (11)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

I would attach the 2 spreader bars between the A and B pillar to the rear most points...

like this... (monkeyevil's old cage)



BTW, kudos on the CAD skills.
kj kyle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18th, 2010, 08:52 PM   #9
Chief Brody
Get off my lawn.
 
Chief Brody's Avatar
 
Join Date: 12-02-06
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 3,688
iTrader: (18)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

I would definitely incorporate bars for your seats to mount to. Might just be me, but I don't see the point in having a full roll cage if you aren't attached to it....
Chief Brody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 19th, 2010, 11:16 AM   #10
LuckyCharm4x4
Senior Member
 
LuckyCharm4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-26-06
Location: South Lyon/Kzoo, MI
Posts: 960
iTrader: (11)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to LuckyCharm4x4 Send a message via Skype™ to LuckyCharm4x4
Default

I will be attaching my seats to the cage. As for the rear section, For now I am just leaving it. I will be incorporating a whole family cage one day so for now I'll leave it. Also, when I go to do that, I may just upgrade the whole thing at once and build a cage from scratch.

~Bry
LuckyCharm4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 19th, 2010, 11:29 AM   #11
benny87
Young Gun..!
 
benny87's Avatar
 
Join Date: 08-03-06
Location: Waterford
Posts: 2,970
iTrader: (4)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Default

Here are some models of cages that I have done, to spec but I have/will be changing some things to my personal cage.














benny87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 19th, 2010, 11:38 AM   #12
Mr. Beefy
BFT!
 
Mr. Beefy's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-11-07
Location: Sault Ste. Marie
Posts: 12,410
iTrader: (20)
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Default

Hrmm nice work guys
Mr. Beefy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old January 20th, 2010, 12:18 PM   #13
LuckyCharm4x4
Senior Member
 
LuckyCharm4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-26-06
Location: South Lyon/Kzoo, MI
Posts: 960
iTrader: (11)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to LuckyCharm4x4 Send a message via Skype™ to LuckyCharm4x4
Default

I am wondering, has anyone here built a cage so that you could have a 4-pt harness but still get in the back seat easily? Maybe a detachable bar or something? Or does everyone just get rid of the back seat access with their cages?

~Bry
LuckyCharm4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 20th, 2010, 06:58 PM   #14
Chief Brody
Get off my lawn.
 
Chief Brody's Avatar
 
Join Date: 12-02-06
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 3,688
iTrader: (18)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyCharm4x4 View Post
I am wondering, has anyone here built a cage so that you could have a 4-pt harness but still get in the back seat easily? Maybe a detachable bar or something? Or does everyone just get rid of the back seat access with their cages?

~Bry
I tell whatever unlucky asshole that has to ride in back they have to climb over the bar.

Actually, my Jeep hasn't moved since the roll cage. So I haven't actually told anyone that. But when it does move, that's what I'll say.
Chief Brody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 20th, 2010, 07:15 PM   #15
boggin-machine
Senior Member
 
boggin-machine's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-11-06
Location: bay city
Posts: 11,653
iTrader: (31)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

climb through the jungle gym
boggin-machine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 21st, 2010, 02:16 PM   #16
LuckyCharm4x4
Senior Member
 
LuckyCharm4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-26-06
Location: South Lyon/Kzoo, MI
Posts: 960
iTrader: (11)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to LuckyCharm4x4 Send a message via Skype™ to LuckyCharm4x4
Default

A little refined: After measuring the thickness of the 2 existing stock spreader bars I found that they are 0.088" thick. This is thin compared to the 0.120" thick of most aftermarket cages, so I will be replacing them. The reason I kept with the hoop to windshield design is because this really keeps my windshield sturdy both when topless and when the hardtop is on. Yes, the cage is getting pretty far from stock and is basically becoming a built from scratch cage, but the main hoop is still in tact, which is what I was really trying to shy away from having to build. What do you think now?

Note: Again, the rear portion will maybe be completed one day, but by then I may just build a complete cage from scratch. Building this add-on cage right now will let me see some pros and cons so I will know what to change for next time.



~Bry
LuckyCharm4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > 4x4 Talk > Fabrication and body armor

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:28 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin, Copyright 2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
Page generated in 0.25938 seconds with 70 queries