|January 16th, 2010, 06:07 PM||#21|
Resident HVAC/R Jambi
Join Date: 11-05-05
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
I have an 06 auto, so my OD is a .69. At least that's what a I think it is. IT's a pretty steep OD, so I could go 4.88, but I worry about towing in D at a reasonable speed and rpms.
I have a 241OR that I just installed and have been running, so for offroad use, I'm not too worried about having a really low axle gearing.
|January 17th, 2010, 02:25 PM||#22|
Low Range Drifter
Join Date: 11-09-05
Location: Hartland, MI
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Should be this 42RLE:
Rev - 2.21
1st - 2.84
2nd - 1.57
3rd - 1.00
4th - 0.69
With a 4:1 t-case and OD, I'd probably go with 4.56. That would have you turning about 2200rpms vs 2400rpms at 75mph.
|January 17th, 2010, 02:37 PM||#23|
Wasn't this attached?
Join Date: 09-06-07
Location: Fenton, MI
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
I disagree with JohnnyJ. If you have the OD, I would go 4.88. Your rpms would be higher, but your driving a heavy brick and it takes a fair amount of power to run highway speeds. I you are cool with going 65 and not passing at all and loosing speed on hills, then go 4.56. 4.88s would give just a little more which would be great. It isn't your DD so mpg shouldn't be of huge concern, and the with the trailer you will be happy you went lower.
Ask most guys if they have ever been uphappy with going to a slightly lower gear? I bet you'll get more guys that will say they wished they went a bit lower than saying they wished they went higher.
|January 17th, 2010, 03:36 PM||#24|
Join Date: 03-03-06
Location: hazel park, mi
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
i ran my 97 tj with stock spicer front shafts, spicer 297 ujoints, a lp30, a detroit ez locker, 4.56 gears, and 35 inch mtr's or 36 inch tsl's. i had real good luck with that set up for about 60k miles. never broke anything. i towed my very basic and light 8ft viking pop up, or a 2place snowmobile trailer quite often. no problem towing at all. had enough power to tow in 5th gear. 4.88 would be ok, but the pinion gets a little small. its not a huge deal but slightly weaker than 4.56. a hp30 would be cool if the housing was cheap enough.
if you wanted to spend some coin and stay small and light get a hp 30 housing. a super 30 kit for inners and outers with an arb. that gives you 30 spline superior shafts throughout and an arb. truss that set up and your golden.
|January 18th, 2010, 10:02 AM||#25|
Join Date: 10-09-09
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
I'm not sure how economical this is but if you can find a 44 cheap. I'm pretty sure an '06
and older selectable diff would fit. Wheather a 4.56 would work or not I don't know. I do know Daveysjeeps.com sells them way cheaper than ARB's. Just a thought
|January 18th, 2010, 10:31 AM||#26|
Support the Sport!
Join Date: 11-11-05
Location: Harrison Twp, MI
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
I put a 44 in the front of my jeep. I ran the 30 with 33's open before this one and never broke anything in the front end. I generally start off pretty easy on stuff but will beat it hard if I want to make it bad enough. even still never broke anything.
My biggest reason for switching to the 44 was because I wanted something stronger which it is except for the 297 u-joints and because I wanted to do high steer which at the time was ridiculously expensive to do on a 30. I run the 44 with 35's locked with an aussie (which is my preference on low dollar lockers by the way). The only thing I've broke on the 44 is a lock out fuse ring. It was a cheap lockout and it was only halfway engaged (my bad) when it happened.
I'm very happy with the steering and the lockouts. One thing no ones mentioned is that if I break a shaft, I can just unlock the front and keep going until I'm someplace safe and flat to repair. You really can't do that with a d30.
I'm unhappy that I have a LP44, I didn't think it would be a big deal but it's low and I've broken a d-shaft because of it.
I wish I would have gone 60 but I do not think I could have built a 60 for the same price. It was expensive building the 44 but everything I did on the 44, I would have had to do on the 60. Big difference being that I got the 44 for $120 and a Dana 60 would have been $900 (priced them at the time) and the dana 60 rebuild parts seemed more expensive too.
I'm with the stay with a stock HP 30 crowd. Lock it with an aussie and pick up a set of spare shafts. I bought and then sold mine on ebay for about $90.
If you're going to do a 44 make sure it's an HP44, lock it with an aussie and and pick up a set of spares. I bought mine on the board here for $100.
As for gearing, I went as low as I could with 5.13's (2.5L). I would have went lower if I could have but that was the lowest available at the time for an 8.8
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