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Old December 11th, 2009, 08:36 AM   #61
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First I gotta get it welded back togeather. I found a wire welder I might be able to use and a friend who can weld so maybe I can get it done. I really can't afford to take it to a shop to get welded right now because of stupid ass christmas.

Take it to JCR instead of that other place you mentioned. Everyone that I have dealt with who have had dealings with that place have all said they are overpriced. I've done apples-to-apples comparisons on lift quotes from them and seen it myself. Brian and Daryl @ JCR are experienced with welding diffs. Might want to just start over with another carrier, though.
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Old December 11th, 2009, 08:56 AM   #62
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Only till spring? I'd fill that thing with wire (taking my time of course to keep it from warping). And i've seen that "bolt" holding the pin break before. Not sure why you'd want to replace a lincoln locked carrier (assuming you enforce the welds) with an expensive replacement in a weak axle if it's not causing any problems but it's your $. If it's working fine FOR YOU I'd re-weld and wheel the piss out of it. What the heck? Locked is locked. I'm running an ECTED and a loc-rite and when wheeling I have no advantage over a "free" welded/welded setup. Weld it, and spend the next several months wheeling and LEARNING your rig before "improving" anything. I wish someone gave me that advice when I started making changes right after getting my first rig. That's my $.02.
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Old December 11th, 2009, 09:35 AM   #63
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Take it to JCR instead of that other place you mentioned. Everyone that I have dealt with who have had dealings with that place have all said they are overpriced. I've done apples-to-apples comparisons on lift quotes from them and seen it myself. Brian and Daryl @ JCR are experienced with welding diffs. Might want to just start over with another carrier, though.
I wish I could take it there but money is tight right now, I am going there around the 22nd for 1 ton steering though.

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Only till spring? I'd fill that thing with wire (taking my time of course to keep it from warping). And i've seen that "bolt" holding the pin break before. Not sure why you'd want to replace a lincoln locked carrier (assuming you enforce the welds) with an expensive replacement in a weak axle if it's not causing any problems but it's your $. If it's working fine FOR YOU I'd re-weld and wheel the piss out of it. What the heck? Locked is locked. I'm running an ECTED and a loc-rite and when wheeling I have no advantage over a "free" welded/welded setup. Weld it, and spend the next several months wheeling and LEARNING your rig before "improving" anything. I wish someone gave me that advice when I started making changes right after getting my first rig. That's my $.02.
I might just do that, I was just worried how it would drive on the road in 4x4 but I figure I've been driving it like that with no problems so far so screw it I should be ok. The XJ had a welded rear end and it drove harder then this yj when turning. Thanks for the advice.
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Old December 11th, 2009, 11:17 AM   #64
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All right two more question. What gear oil should I put back in and how much will I need. The fluid that was in it was kinda of greenish in color but it had a little water in it by the looks of it.
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Old December 11th, 2009, 11:35 AM   #65
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All right two more question. What gear oil should I put back in and how much will I need. The fluid that was in it was kinda of greenish in color but it had a little water in it by the looks of it.
As already stated, 80-90 and fill it until it comes back out the hole.
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Old December 11th, 2009, 11:38 AM   #66
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As already stated, 80-90 and fill it until it comes back out the hole.
How much will it take till it comes out the hole roughly? Do I need to buy a gallon or what?
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Old December 11th, 2009, 11:58 AM   #67
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How much will it take till it comes out the hole roughly? Do I need to learn how to use Google,or what?

Dana 30 fluid capacity.
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Old December 11th, 2009, 12:05 PM   #68
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Thanks again....I'm computer stupid and sometimes forget about google....
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