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Old December 7th, 2009, 09:12 PM   #1
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Default welding an axle truss.

I'm going to be putting a truss on the 60 this month, but is welding a truss on going to cause warping in the housing? is there anything I can do to prevent it?
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Old December 7th, 2009, 11:11 PM   #2
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You should be fine. If the weld is going to be long then do an inch or so at a time and alternate sides to let the other cool. I've never had a problem welding to a the axle tubes, although it's usually a 14bolt or a 60 so the extra thick tubes certainly help.
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Old December 8th, 2009, 10:41 AM   #3
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I had the same question after looking at the panty dropping axle truss tread on pirate4x4, alot of them on 14b and 60s were welded allong the housing like this one.
Is this the best way to do it or should it be something like bellow and try to tie it to the pinion retainer or diff cover, my project is on a 14b by the way.
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Old December 8th, 2009, 11:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
I had the same question after looking at the panty dropping axle truss tread on pirate4x4, alot of them on 14b and 60s were welded allong the housing like this one.
I'm trying to avoid welding on the cast housing...

Quote:
Is this the best way to do it or should it be something like bellow and try to tie it to the pinion retainer or diff cover, my project is on a 14b by the way.
this is more like it... I think I am going to base it off the BTF diff cover / truss like so... only I want a full body truss.



also 60's dont have a pinion support to tie into.

I should have said I allready have a design in mind. I am just worried about laying a bead down, almost the whole length of the axle tube. I like tab's idea.

here is what i had in mind.






my next question is what thickness of material should I use for the truss body?

Last edited by kj kyle; December 8th, 2009 at 11:10 AM.
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Old December 8th, 2009, 12:56 PM   #5
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1/8" or 3/16" mild steel is fine for a truss. Welding the whole length WILL warp just about any housing no matter how carefully you try to weld it. You need to preload it quite a bit and be really careful how you weld it, it's gonna get ugly.
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Old December 8th, 2009, 01:03 PM   #6
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1/8" or 3/16" mild steel is fine for a truss. Welding the whole length WILL warp just about any housing no matter how carefully you try to weld it. You need to preload it quite a bit and be really careful how you weld it, it's gonna get ugly.
what do you mean by preload?
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Old December 8th, 2009, 01:19 PM   #7
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Chain the ends of the housing to the biggest chunk of massive steel you can find and then get a 20t bottle jack and put some preload into the housing... IE. bend it the opposite way it will pull when you weld it. you might only need 1/4" or you might need 1/2". what housing and how you plan on attaching it and where all play a big part... practice makes perfect.
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Old December 8th, 2009, 01:26 PM   #8
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well FWIW, this is almost exactly what I want to do.. and its a D60ff from a f250

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Old December 8th, 2009, 03:35 PM   #9
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Sorry for the thread jack, but.

What does or does not determine wether an axle truss should be used? I know d30's bend when jumped. Other than that, I am unsure what problems people have if they do not use a truss?
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Old December 8th, 2009, 04:51 PM   #10
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the main reason for mine, is to have a usable surface to mount links on, as well as give you a little more vertical separation at the axle. another reason is preventative, so when I am at silver lake and decide to hit that dune and get air born... I dont bend my housing.
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Old December 9th, 2009, 08:31 PM   #11
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Your way over thinking it. Be sensible and build your truss. Weld it on in a smart fashion and have at it. Ive done lots of trusses now and the only axle i have personally had warp was a ford 9". With the jig i have i just cut the end off the housing re line it up and re weld. That axle is still floating around this sight some where.
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Old December 9th, 2009, 08:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
1/8" or 3/16" mild steel is fine for a truss. Welding the whole length WILL warp just about any housing no matter how carefully you try to weld it. You need to preload it quite a bit and be really careful how you weld it, it's gonna get ugly.

1/8" isn't too small if he is using it as a link mount?
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Old December 9th, 2009, 09:23 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Blue XJ View Post
1/8" isn't too small if he is using it as a link mount?
using it as a link mount came after I made that statement. I would have no problem using an 1/8" truss for a link mount... it all comes down to how much time and thought you want to put into them... If you just want to weld some tabs to the top of it then you'll probably need more than 1/4".

The upper link mounts on my buggy are 3/16" and 1/8" mild steel, the only 1/4" stuff I have used is were the bolts for the joints go so the holes wont open up.
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Old December 10th, 2009, 10:39 AM   #14
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maybe i didn't word it correctly. the link mounts will be similar to the BTF truss in post 4. BTF uses something like 1/2"

the rest of the body (post 8) will be 1/8".
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Old December 10th, 2009, 06:07 PM   #15
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1/2 is overkill in my mind for link mounts, 1/4 is common 5/16 if you really want to beat on them,

plus welding 1/2 mounts to 1/8 truss will be very difficult, without burning through the thin stuff youll never penetrate the 1/2 enough to see a difference in strength.
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Old December 10th, 2009, 06:10 PM   #16
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I was just saying that is what blue torch uses, if memory serves...
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Old December 10th, 2009, 06:35 PM   #17
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BTF uses 1/2" because they press-brake the part and don't build any other structure, so they rely on the thickness to make sure their bridge doesn't bend.



On the other hand, you can spend time like 95geo and build a nice structure out of thinner material that is properly supported so it doesn't twist up. Here's the work he did on WhiteRhino's 9":



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Old December 10th, 2009, 06:39 PM   #18
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well your picture isn't showing up on my computer, but I assure you I cannot compete with 95geo's work. I am very new to fabrication, and looking for a relatively simple design.
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