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Old January 19th, 2010, 09:00 PM   #41
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Couldn't you get a long piece of large threaded rod, nuts, and make you somthing like you did to press the tube out of the knuckle with a hole drilled in the middle. I imagine you'd have to heat the pumpkin and I'm not sure if that's good or not.
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Old January 19th, 2010, 09:07 PM   #42
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Woops, I missed the part about no torches.
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Old January 19th, 2010, 10:12 PM   #43
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Might be able to drill out the plug welds. Gonna call tommorrow and check for a price on
some 3.5" dom I'd like 3/8 or even 1/2, can't imagine it would be cheap though.
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Old January 21st, 2010, 10:30 PM   #44
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Went back to work today.
First thing was to make a 36" drill bit extension to clean out and grind on the inside of the tube.

Not a good pic, but I made it this afternoon, and it worked rather well.



After doing a lot of grinding and some cleaning, I pressed in the new tube. It was more like hammering it in till it wouldn't go anymore, then I wrestled the thing into the air and dropped it on the new pipe over and over till it bottomed out. Awsome.

You can see the new tube inserted in and the 3.5 piece on, but not up the weld area just yet. I also drilled the vent hole out for a plug weld. If you look closely you can also see the drill extension. :p



I welded the inside piece first, then hammered the outer piece just shy of the weld and burned that in. I then started making repeated passes, slowly filling in the gap.



Here is a look when it wsa just about done. The plug weld needs a little cleaning up still.



The ends need a little grinding as the inner tube sticks out a little at the top, but it is snug and should be a hell of a lot stronger than a new piece of .250 wall 3.5" tube.



BTW they did have .500 3.5" DOM tube, but lets just say that is just a little out of my price range. If I ever go all out and do a 14 bolt with custom legnth axleshafts etc. I might just do that, but for now I think I'm good.

Assuming I do not work tommorrow I will do the other side and degree up the inner C's and burn those on as well. I'm thinking 10 degrees for the pinion angle. Anybody have any insight on this?

later
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Old January 30th, 2010, 06:40 PM   #45
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Did some more work today. Since I was in the garage drinkin and enjoying my birthday today, thought I might as well get some work done on the sterling.

It is all welded up and now just needs to have some brackets welded to it. Ither than that, it is done and ready for assembly. Gonna order some 4 link + coil brackets from ballistic fab.

Here is some eye candy for ya'll


degreeing it up...



Post welding





look at those tubes!



I'll post more after the brackets come in.
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Old January 30th, 2010, 07:06 PM   #46
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why did you go so short on the short side chris? it will make it hard to get any link brackets or shocks in there. what are you going to use for springs?
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Old January 30th, 2010, 07:29 PM   #47
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The reason it is so short is I set it up to use stock legnth shafts. Dumbass me used what I had. Shafts from a 95 d60. So it will accept any d60 shaft from that era. I think it is 1988.5 -1998 shafts.

I should have used the old 78-79 shafts. Wouldn't have had to legnthen the pass side that way either.

I should have enough material to run the 4 link brackets and 5" wide coils. I would like to use coilovers, but I like the idea of sleeping in my house, and money is tight.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 08:49 AM   #48
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With the size of that pig, you are gonna have frame to pig clearance unless you are lifted high. I just put a 95 d60 in a s10 blazer and had to limit up travel alot in order to keep it low and keep the pig out the track bar and frame. Im not sure what you are using it in but it is cool. I like it.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 09:29 AM   #49
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It is going in my 95 f150

the plan is to lift it only enough to clear 40" or maybe 42" max tires

I think that would be enough to clear the pig as well.

thanks for the caution though.
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Old April 11th, 2010, 01:59 PM   #50
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Nice work. I just wanted to commend you on your build. Not just for your creativity, but also for having the nerve to try it. Also to everyone who posted back with positive responses. I posted a question once on Pirate4x4 about building a custom axle out of two and everyone who wrote back only said how stupid of an idea it was. That's why I am here now. Do you still have the caliper brackets that you removed from the Sterling rear. If so, what year was the rear end out of, and what would you want for them?
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Old September 9th, 2010, 09:47 PM   #51
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any updates on this?
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Old September 9th, 2010, 09:55 PM   #52
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Same here - did you ever get a differential with custom side gears?
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Old September 9th, 2010, 10:07 PM   #53
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actually, yes I did. Made a call to a buddy by the sterling plant and got some un-splined side gears. I had them cut for d60 splines, and they work great. I also called ARb and they said that the internals from the d60 and the sterling 10.25 are same with the splines just cut diffirently. If and when I order one, I can get one with the d60 side gears. The tech guys were totally awsome on the phone.

I just need to assemble it and decide on how I want to hook it up. I am thinking radius arms, since I am not 100% if I want to go with a 4 link since I have never made one before.

My roof caved in on my house back in april, and I have been rebuilding my house by myself between work so I haven't had any time to do anything other than work on the house.

I hope to have it done by spring. This has been the longest summer of my life. I never even got to use my waverunners or go hit a trail even once!!!
Enough whining...

I am getting motivated again by looking at the pics I posted. I am gonna see if I can borrow a torch set and see if I can weld up some brackets.

later
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Old September 24th, 2010, 12:12 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithshotrodshop View Post
Nobody has mentioned yet that the 35 splines are not the same. I figured this out when I tried swapping sterling for dana 70 shafts. They are both 1.5 inch 35 spline, but they are cut at a different angle, and will not slide into eachother. The sterling has wide cut steep splines while the 60/70 has narrow cut splines with less of an angle.


Interesting.. my buddy made a 609, using 50 knuckles, dana 60 shafts and a 9" center. He turned down sterling side gears, and put the in a 9" carrier to make a spool, and the 60 shafts slid right in..
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Old November 12th, 2010, 04:03 PM   #55
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got my shiny new inner shaft seals from ballistic fab today. Totally disapointed. They do not even come close to fitting.
Anyone out there have any ideas on a seal that would work?

I might have to sleeve it down to the standard 60 size.
Wish I had a lathe!
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Old November 12th, 2010, 04:32 PM   #56
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If I were you I would go to Autozone, buy F350 seals, and then have a sleeve machined so you can use them. Then you can buy seals anywhere.

sbcrichie does some fab stuff on the side. He's got a mill, and lathe, and works for a reasonable price...
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Old November 17th, 2010, 11:31 PM   #57
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I took some quick measurements and went out and bought a piece of DOM tubing. Took it to a machine shop and had it turned down.

Here is what I got back



pretty nice and I went to press in the new seals. They fit nice and tight...





Went to install them and I hit a snag. There is a burr in the tubes. It looks like a weld bead.



I ground them out with a die grinder.



I went to install them again and once again, to no avail

Apparently in my haste not only did I fail to measure both sides (assming they would be the same size) I also failed to take more that one measurement from one side.

The tube is not round.

Not only that but the depth is diffirent. It is much deeper on the drivers side than the passenger side.



taking a break to think this one out. Wish I hadn't paid $50 just to throw these out and try again.
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Old November 18th, 2010, 06:54 AM   #58
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I think your on the right track.. Just take your time and think it through.
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Old November 18th, 2010, 07:20 AM   #59
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have it align bored....Not the carrier journals, just the tubes in that section. And then that way you know the seal is perfectly perpendicular to the axles.


Might be cheaper to do that, then have another set of tubes machined....

If not, I might be able to use those tubes to set up a seal arrangement in the D50 center section
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Old November 20th, 2010, 04:25 PM   #60
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Took the axle to the power washer to clean it out and get it ready today.



had some more material removed from the sleeves. Also had a groove cut into them for a O ring.



I added some rtv, and pressed them in.







I tacked them in and pressed in the new seals, and it looks really good. No leaks even with 110psi of air pushing on em






All seems well, so it is time to buy an install kit for the gears!
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