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Old March 22nd, 2006, 08:04 PM   #1
going-strong
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Default EGR valve

when did dodge stop putting an egr valve in the BRs...I think it was sometime in 1996 but im not sure...im looking for the month and i cant find it anywhere



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Old March 22nd, 2006, 08:25 PM   #2
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and with the BRs that did have an EGR...what do u guys think about taking it off and caping it...good idea or not
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Old March 22nd, 2006, 08:52 PM   #3
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No, it's not a good idea. Your engine will run like shit. An engine designed to run with EGR is meant to have it there. You won't gain any power by capping it either. It only runs during cruising speeds to reduce combustion temp., which reduces oxides of nitrogen and will improve your mpg a little bit.
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Old March 22nd, 2006, 08:59 PM   #4
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only reason im asking is that my check engine light came on so i decided to pull some codes, i came up with #51 (Oxygen feedback system stuck at lean position) so i assumed it was a clogged egr and was gonna clean it and then where i thought it was supposed to be there was a metal plate covering it, i dont know if this was after they stopped putting them on or im it was capped,



any other ideas?
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Old March 22nd, 2006, 09:47 PM   #5
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A stuck open EGR would cause a poor idle or stalling at idle...quite easy to diagnose. A lean condition, if in fact it is truely stuck lean and not a HEGO problem, could be an injector problem, a vac leak, plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pump....if you have no drivability problems, I would lean toward a HEGO failure or an exhaust leak.
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Old March 23rd, 2006, 04:14 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by MuddyPaws
A stuck open EGR would cause a poor idle or stalling at idle...quite easy to diagnose. A lean condition, if in fact it is truely stuck lean and not a HEGO problem, could be an injector problem, a vac leak, plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pump....if you have no drivability problems, I would lean toward a HEGO failure or an exhaust leak.

i do have a loss of power, poor fuel economy and it is actually shooting a bunch of black shit (liquid) out of my tail pipe
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Old March 23rd, 2006, 05:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddyPaws
A stuck open EGR would cause a poor idle or stalling at idle...quite easy to diagnose. A lean condition, if in fact it is truely stuck lean and not a HEGO problem, could be an injector problem, a vac leak, plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pump....if you have no drivability problems, I would lean toward a HEGO failure or an exhaust leak.

whats "HEGO"
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Old March 23rd, 2006, 07:36 PM   #8
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Pull your EGR valve off, hose it down with brake clean. Let it dry, and reinstall.

Tim....yea wtf is HEGO? I officially have my associate's in auto service technology now and I've never once heard that...is it an old fart thing?
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Old March 23rd, 2006, 07:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
Pull your EGR valve off, hose it down with brake clean. Let it dry, and reinstall.

Tim....yea wtf is HEGO? I officially have my associate's in auto service technology now and I've never once heard that...is it an old fart thing?

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Originally Posted by going-strong
i assumed it was a clogged egr and was gonna clean it and then where i thought it was supposed to be there was a metal plate covering it, i dont know if this was after they stopped putting them on or im it was capped
i cant find the EGR
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Old March 24th, 2006, 12:24 AM   #10
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caping off the egr will not cause your engine to run crapy, i have done this on mine before and it ran just fine. he cant pull it off if its not there. as for the month i have no clue on when they stoped. do you have stock manifolds? it sounds like its your o2 sensor. and i have a feeling tim ment a heated o2 sensor, but not positive on that. if you are dumping black crap out the exhause and its running crapy your o2 sensor is probley screwed up. the way i read your code, it is that the o2 sensor is not switching. you said your truck was a 96? is that obd 1 or obd2? cause they switched that year. so depending on when it was made.... im sure there is more but its like 1:30a and ive got other stuff on my mind so yeah hope it helps.
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Old March 24th, 2006, 12:41 AM   #11
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It's pointless to cap it off anyways (unless it's stuck open)...it doesn't benefit you in any way, shape, or form.
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Old March 24th, 2006, 02:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
It's pointless to cap it off anyways (unless it's stuck open)...it doesn't benefit you in any way, shape, or form.
I could be wrong but wasnt this issue already covered in a pervious post back in the fall ?? im too lazy to search for it but i remember the EGR valve being removed WAS a gain in something... :miff:
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Old March 24th, 2006, 08:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noodles
caping off the egr will not cause your engine to run crapy, i have done this on mine before and it ran just fine. he cant pull it off if its not there. as for the month i have no clue on when they stoped. do you have stock manifolds? it sounds like its your o2 sensor. and i have a feeling tim ment a heated o2 sensor, but not positive on that. if you are dumping black crap out the exhause and its running crapy your o2 sensor is probley screwed up. the way i read your code, it is that the o2 sensor is not switching. you said your truck was a 96? is that obd 1 or obd2? cause they switched that year. so depending on when it was made.... im sure there is more but its like 1:30a and ive got other stuff on my mind so yeah hope it helps.

yes it does have stock manifolds, but i ran custom dual exhaust and one of the o2 is now an o2 simulator and the other one i just replaced about 4 months ago...it is an obd1...if it was an o2 problem wouldnt it come up as a code #21?
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Old March 26th, 2006, 07:59 PM   #14
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i would think so, but it might think something else is causing it.. i would belive that it would come up as that code. where is your o2 sensors at? becasuei only have one. who knows that simulator could cause a problem.. dont know though. i would have to look at it more. but the way i am reading the code 51( from what you ahve put up) is that the sensor is reading its lean allthe time. remember obd 1 is stupid..lol. did this problem come up when you put the simulator in? what it sounds like it is doing is actualy flooding the engine, becasue it thinks it is running lean.
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Old March 27th, 2006, 04:12 PM   #15
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first off i was mistaken, i do have obd 2 (that is why i have two o2 sensors, because of the clean air act) both of my sensors on on the drivers side pipe, the upstream sensor is just behind the exhaust manifold and the downstream sensor is about 2 feet behind that...no the o2 simulator never gave me prolbrems before, it is in place of the downstream simulator which is used to monitor backpressure (since i dont have a cat on, this is need) the upstream sensor is the one that controls air/fuel ratio, so if it is in fact an o2 prolbrem i would think it would be the upstream not the simulator, and i just replaced the upstream about 2 or 3 months ago
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Old March 27th, 2006, 06:28 PM   #16
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i agree with ya. it makes sence. im not sure what else it is.. ill have to think about it more. but remember just becasue you replaced it,doesnt mean its bad. can you get a scan tool on it and watch it cycle?
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Old March 27th, 2006, 07:23 PM   #17
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i understand that the o2 may be bad, what is the best way that i could test it? can i take it out of the truck and have autozone (or anyone else) do a bench test?
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Old March 27th, 2006, 07:57 PM   #18
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Sorry...forgot about this post. A HEGO is a Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor...sheesh GM, you should know that Mr. ASE.:tonka:
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Old March 28th, 2006, 02:27 PM   #19
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see if autozone can watch it on the scan tool, to watch it cycle. you might be able to do a bench test but i cant think of how right now. i can look this weekend in my manual. but i always run the truck and just watch it switch from rich to lean mode on the scan tool.

MP- i thought it was an o2 sensor, i just couldnt figure what the ego was.. i was thinking heated o2.. ive never heard it called that before.
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Old March 28th, 2006, 04:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noodles
see if autozone can watch it on the scan tool, to watch it cycle. you might be able to do a bench test but i cant think of how right now. i can look this weekend in my manual. but i always run the truck and just watch it switch from rich to lean mode on the scan tool.
so if i hook up a scan tool, if everything is operating correctly it should start out rich and then swith to lean, and if it is broke it will just start off on lean and stay there?
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