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Old December 23rd, 2009, 11:56 AM   #61
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I can say that I usually only listen to AM radio, and there is no difference in signal/sound from the lights being turned on to being off.
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Old December 23rd, 2009, 08:37 PM   #62
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are you able to get any for a 1981 Toyota pickup?
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Old December 24th, 2009, 08:07 AM   #63
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$80 (all GM trucks need a relay harness). I got your PM as well, just haven't had the energy to compose an intelligent response
sounds good, I will be in touch after the holidays. let me know on the pm I would like to get started after the first of the year.

Last edited by molds02; December 24th, 2009 at 11:48 AM.
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Old January 8th, 2010, 07:36 PM   #64
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$10 off any order of H3, H4 (thats what a XJ and YJ would use), 8XX, H13 (low beam only) or 9005 in the month of January. That's $60 a kit!

If you don't know what your vehicle takes: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...lacementGuide/
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Old January 14th, 2010, 10:27 PM   #65
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well since i finally had time to get around and take a few pics, here they are along with a short description.

driver side ballast.


passenger side ballast, yellow thing is the battery, ballast is mounted on the metal in front of the battery.


this is where i mounted the relay, near battery again, but this time its on the passenger side of the engine compartment


this is a before pic, sorry for the blurriness


and heres an after picture (note: my overhead hella500's are also on, but you can see the difference in the light color and tell which lights are which)


this things light up street signs VERY far away and makes them a vibrant color thats actually cool to look at. As i said before, id recommend them if your current lights arent cutting it for you or you just want some extra visibility. Ryan is a nice guy to deal with and answered the couple questions i had.

If anyone would like additional information or pictures, let me know and ill get them.
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Old January 22nd, 2010, 09:06 PM   #66
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$10 off any order of H3, H4 (thats what a XJ and YJ would use), 8XX, H13 (low beam only) or 9005 in the month of January. That's $60 a kit!

If you don't know what your vehicle takes: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...lacementGuide/
Must not be enough people looking at this thread because this is cheap - 8 days left!
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Old January 23rd, 2010, 10:29 PM   #67
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Must not be enough people looking at this thread because this is cheap - 8 days left!
9005's = high beams for me - did they happen to make quick responding ballasts yet for high beams?

have 9005's in 55 watt?
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Old January 26th, 2010, 10:15 PM   #68
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Orderd two sets - Thanks Ryan!
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Old January 26th, 2010, 10:43 PM   #69
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This is what mine takes...

1989 MITSUBISHI Montero

High & low beam headlamp
H6024
H6024ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H6024XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light
H6024CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light

Do you have anything for mine?
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Old January 27th, 2010, 07:14 PM   #70
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This is what mine takes...

1989 MITSUBISHI Montero

High & low beam headlamp
H6024
H6024ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H6024XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light
H6024CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light

Do you have anything for mine?
Sure do, have it in stock even.

Low beam xenon, high beam halogen: $60 (for Jan special, normally is $70)

If you do alot of offroading, or backwoods driving, I'd recommend the bi-xenon (high and low beam xenon) for $90.

If you really want bright, I have low beam only 50W in 5000K for $90 or bi-xenon in 50W 6000K for $110. Standard size ballasts for 50W.

For any of the above options, you'll need:

7" (H6024) round glass e-code headlight conversion (pair): $50

So prices range from $110 to $160 depending on what you want, and that is everything you'll need to do a conversion properly.

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9005's = high beams for me - did they happen to make quick responding ballasts yet for high beams?

have 9005's in 55 watt?
PM sent
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Old January 29th, 2010, 12:56 PM   #71
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I was having issues with one of Boo's ballast not firing up. I would have to hit my high beams, then back to low beams and it would fire.

I switched ballasts, (passenger to driver and driver to passenger) and still had my passenger light not lighting upon start up, I had to click the high beams then low beams to re-fire.

Well, after racking my brain over this, I finally found out that my battery was on its way out and dropping down to 9.4 volts while cranking which did not allow enough juice to the ballast to fire. So the ballasts act like a bad battery indicator

Since I replaced the battery, both fire every time.
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Old January 29th, 2010, 01:11 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
I was having issues with one of Boo's ballast not firing up. I would have to hit my high beams, then back to low beams and it would fire.

I switched ballasts, (passenger to driver and driver to passenger) and still had my passenger light not lighting upon start up, I had to click the high beams then low beams to re-fire.

Well, after racking my brain over this, I finally found out that my battery was on its way out and dropping down to 9.4 volts while cranking which did not allow enough juice to the ballast to fire. So the ballasts act like a bad battery indicator

Since I replaced the battery, both fire every time.
I'm thinking the battery wasn't really the problem.....
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Old January 29th, 2010, 05:07 PM   #73
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I'm thinking the battery wasn't really the problem.....
curious what you're alluding to. if it's that Ryan's ballasts are sucking batteries dry I'd like to offer this tidbit.

my daily driver is an '01 miata ls with 140k on it now, and still has the original battery - even after the original alternator finally gave out over the summer and killed the battery on the way to the dealer - I literally drove it until it drained the battery to the point where it could no longer even fire the little motorcycle sized spark plugs. given that it was so old, and a gel-matt battery at that, I assumed it was going to be toast.

new alternator in, quick charge on the battery, and voila' it still accepts a charge, and still has enough cold cranking amps to handle today's single digit temps.

I've also been running his HID's since November, going into work before sunrise, and heading home in the dark as well - and could not be happier with them.
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Old January 29th, 2010, 06:50 PM   #74
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Must not be enough people looking at this thread because this is cheap - 8 days left!
okay, okay!

$$$ sent!
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Old January 29th, 2010, 07:03 PM   #75
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Yeah I sent out my MO yesterday and I'm gonna do a writeup on em when i get em.
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Old January 29th, 2010, 07:07 PM   #76
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curious what you're alluding to. if it's that Ryan's ballasts are sucking batteries dry I'd like to offer this tidbit.
No, you're way off base. This was not in reference to the ballasts.
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Old January 30th, 2010, 03:24 PM   #77
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No, you're way off base. This was not in reference to the ballasts.
fair enough. hence why I asked if that was the reference.

my testimonial should help those that may be unsure of the technology anyway I guess - part of the reason I wanted a set of these was to draw less current.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 10:53 AM   #78
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I'm thinking the battery wasn't really the problem.....

It absolutely was. Using a graphing fluke, I recorded the voltage strain on the battery during cranks and it was dropping to 9.4V

After I replaced the battery I'm having dips down to around 11.2V which is clearly enough to fire both ballasts.

I could have got around this by putting in a two second time relay, but it was easier for me to swap batteries.
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Old February 2nd, 2010, 10:41 AM   #79
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It absolutely was. Using a graphing fluke, I recorded the voltage strain on the battery during cranks and it was dropping to 9.4V

After I replaced the battery I'm having dips down to around 11.2V which is clearly enough to fire both ballasts.

I could have got around this by putting in a two second time relay, but it was easier for me to swap batteries.
So what you're saying is that one of your headlights would not come on when you were cranking the engine? Did you turn them on as soon as you turned the key, or do they come on automatically?

And once the engine was running, the 13-14.5V wasn't enough to fire the ballast?
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Old February 2nd, 2010, 10:54 AM   #80
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So what you're saying is that one of your headlights would not come on when you were cranking the engine? Did you turn them on as soon as you turned the key, or do they come on automatically?

And once the engine was running, the 13-14.5V wasn't enough to fire the ballast?

On my yukon, the lights and everything else are disabled while cranking, I think this is the same as every car that I own. Once the key falls back off crank, the accessories turn on.

I tested it over and over and the alternator excitation does not happen immediately, there is a slight delay, so after the crank cycle has started the engine and my key goes back I'm still running on a lowered voltage from the battery since it did not recover from the cranking. The time frame is minimal (I don't remember offhand, something around .3 seconds, but that is enough that it was disrupting the ballasts.

the lights are on a sensor and turn on automatically when it gets dark, and if I was driving and they turned on automatically, they would always fire, because they had ample voltage.

Since I've replaced the battery, I do not have the same voltage dip as before, and the ballasts clearly have enough voltage to fire after the crank dip, but before the alternator is excited.
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