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Old October 15th, 2009, 08:44 AM   #41
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For any insert that has either a t-stat or remote, electricity has to be run to it, right? How else would the remote work?
no electricity needed. The regulator takes four double a batteries, and the remote/t-stat takes 9-v.

lasts about a year on the batteries
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Old October 15th, 2009, 08:45 AM   #42
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no electricity needed. The regulator takes four double a batteries, and the remote/t-stat takes 9-v.

lasts about a year on the batteries

Thanks!
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Old October 15th, 2009, 09:14 AM   #43
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All you people who mention your wood stoves in your garages, how does your insurance company feel about that?
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Old October 15th, 2009, 09:42 AM   #44
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All you people who mention your wood stoves in your garages, how does your insurance company feel about that?
Not very good.
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Old October 15th, 2009, 09:54 AM   #45
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All you people who mention your wood stoves in your garages, how does your insurance company feel about that?
The same is true for a wood stove in your house.........Insurance company needs to be notified. Insurance will be null and void if they find out about it after the fact.
There IS a surcharge for it and some comapnies want a reciept from a qualified installer that the installation meets all codes for setback and flue sizing. Some even want reciept each year from chimney cleaner that vent stack has been cleaned.
Been using ours since 1998, burn 7-10 face cords a year, (Hardwood only, Oak, Ash) windows usually open all winter long, temp inside a balmy 78*, Humidity is usually very low and we put a water pot on stove to boost it, 2400 sq ft house. Woodstove is a Vermont Casting.
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Old October 15th, 2009, 10:02 AM   #46
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we still have the air on .
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Old October 15th, 2009, 11:08 AM   #47
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We've been working on building outdoor wood boilers. We built one and were able to sort the bugs out of it and it works great!! We're currently building another boiler with some small modifications. These boilers are somewhat ahead of the curve compared with standard off the shelf central boiling units. We fill them with oil versus a glycol solution. We also build them to hold around 270 gallons of liquid versus 100-150 in the normal boilers. This next boiler should be finished up this week and installed next week at my brothers place. I might still build one for myself this season but will probably hold off until next season. We probably have $1600.00 into each boiler we make after installation. That's not paying ourselves for the labor. Most systems bought and installed are running around $10,000.00 . The price varies for us depending on the cost of materials. We've only been building for family for now.
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Old October 15th, 2009, 11:41 AM   #48
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We've been working on building outdoor wood boilers. We built one and were able to sort the bugs out of it and it works great!! We're currently building another boiler with some small modifications. These boilers are somewhat ahead of the curve compared with standard off the shelf central boiling units. We fill them with oil versus a glycol solution. We also build them to hold around 270 gallons of liquid versus 100-150 in the normal boilers. This next boiler should be finished up this week and installed next week at my brothers place. I might still build one for myself this season but will probably hold off until next season. We probably have $1600.00 into each boiler we make after installation. That's not paying ourselves for the labor. Most systems bought and installed are running around $10,000.00 . The price varies for us depending on the cost of materials. We've only been building for family for now.

Interesting. Have you increased the size of piping and mass flow to accommodate for the lower heat transfer properties of oil - or are you hoping the additional temps you can get above boiling of a 50% glycol solution (about 40F higher before regular dino oil starts to break down).
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Old October 15th, 2009, 11:43 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by kb8ymf View Post
The same is true for a wood stove in your house.........Insurance company needs to be notified. Insurance will be null and void if they find out about it after the fact.
There IS a surcharge for it and some comapnies want a reciept from a qualified installer that the installation meets all codes for setback and flue sizing. Some even want reciept each year from chimney cleaner that vent stack has been cleaned.
Been using ours since 1998, burn 7-10 face cords a year, (Hardwood only, Oak, Ash) windows usually open all winter long, temp inside a balmy 78*, Humidity is usually very low and we put a water pot on stove to boost it, 2400 sq ft house. Woodstove is a Vermont Casting.
j-kb8ymf
I have already been through it that stuff on the house. From what I am hearing many places, insurance companies are much more strict in the garage, due to fuel being in there.
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Old October 15th, 2009, 11:53 AM   #50
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Interesting. Have you increased the size of piping and mass flow to accommodate for the lower heat transfer properties of oil - or are you hoping the additional temps you can get above boiling of a 50% glycol solution (about 40F higher before regular dino oil starts to break down).
Yes the size of the piping has been increased. I will have to look at the materials list as I don't recall what it is at the moment. So far the oil hasn't been a problem. The oil hasn't started to break down that I'm aware of. The amount of heat needed to transfer thru they system is more than enough to heat your home and pole building. Oil tends to retain heat longer than the glycol solution which is why we used oil instead. When and if the fire burns down to coals and less heat is transferred to the oil, the oil will still retain enough heat to heat your home for a long period of time.
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Old October 15th, 2009, 12:22 PM   #51
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What happens if you have a house fire and these oil pipes crack or leak?

Now your house is plumbed with fuel for the fire.

Devils advocate, maybe glycol is safer.
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Old October 15th, 2009, 12:25 PM   #52
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we've got one in the basement thats F-ing HUGE !! used to heat the house constantly with it.. but something with the stove pipe going to the chimney was rusted ( i was like 12 last time we used it) i remember those nights where it was 3' of snow on the deck and blistering Cold out.. but yet we had the sliding door open cause the house was sooo hot.. Gf's parents heat with wood up north and we sleep with the window open it gets soo warm
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Old October 15th, 2009, 01:03 PM   #53
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Quote:
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Yes the size of the piping has been increased. I will have to look at the materials list as I don't recall what it is at the moment. So far the oil hasn't been a problem. The oil hasn't started to break down that I'm aware of. The amount of heat needed to transfer thru they system is more than enough to heat your home and pole building. Oil tends to retain heat longer than the glycol solution which is why we used oil instead. When and if the fire burns down to coals and less heat is transferred to the oil, the oil will still retain enough heat to heat your home for a long period of time.
I think the oil will be fine if it doesn't get above 270F (and I"m talking motor oil, not sure about other oils) - motor oil starts to "coke" and solids can precipitate out of solution. In an engine, this is bad, in a heat exchanger - who knows?
Might be a good idea to run a bypass filter that continually filters about 5% of the flow - that way, you'll at least have an idea if any crud is in the system by opening up a dirty one. : )
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Old October 15th, 2009, 01:06 PM   #54
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:envious:
I wish we could have a wood stove here.
You could just board up the house and move into the garage with the hubby
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Old October 15th, 2009, 01:20 PM   #55
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we have always had a wood burner to heat the house yes if u let it go out it gets cold but o well have not had to go get gas in 2plus years nows all we run off it is the hot watter and when we do fill up its like 400 for one fill up for 2.5-3 years not bad
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Old October 15th, 2009, 07:50 PM   #56
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I think the oil will be fine if it doesn't get above 270F (and I"m talking motor oil, not sure about other oils) - motor oil starts to "coke" and solids can precipitate out of solution. In an engine, this is bad, in a heat exchanger - who knows?
Might be a good idea to run a bypass filter that continually filters about 5% of the flow - that way, you'll at least have an idea if any crud is in the system by opening up a dirty one. : )
We use peanut oil similar to the cooking application used in outdoor cooking applications. You do bring up a good point and I will try the filter application. I will also check the oil on a regular basis to get a feel for the average temperature. Thank you for the suggestion. I appreciate your thoughts and time.
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Old October 15th, 2009, 08:04 PM   #57
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We use peanut oil similar to the cooking application used in outdoor cooking applications. You do bring up a good point and I will try the filter application. I will also check the oil on a regular basis to get a feel for the average temperature. Thank you for the suggestion. I appreciate your thoughts and time.

No problem - a few things came to mind when you mentioned oil and it brought back memories of some things I used to work on. Ford was looking at doing a modular diesel almost 20 years ago. They were thinking of having it oil cooled - even built prototypes and got them running. Then someone realized that an oil change would involve 10 gallons of oil...

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Old October 15th, 2009, 08:15 PM   #58
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I have an outdoor boiler and run straight water in it...no anti freeze what so ever, I dont really see the point of having anti freeze in it anyways...I have about $12,500 wrapped up into mine if you count the propane tank i was forced to buy because I dont burn enough to have a free one
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Old October 15th, 2009, 08:20 PM   #59
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Here guys. I thought this was neat.
http://chimneysweeponline.com/howood.htm
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Old October 15th, 2009, 08:29 PM   #60
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I have an outdoor boiler and run straight water in it...no anti freeze what so ever, I dont really see the point of having anti freeze in it anyways...I have about $12,500 wrapped up into mine if you count the propane tank i was forced to buy because I dont burn enough to have a free one
Hey toughguy, how deep are your lines buried? I think a glycol mix is just added insurance (against freezing), corrosion protection and lets you get the fluid a little hotter.

Just guessing.
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