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Old October 14th, 2009, 08:55 AM   #1
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Default Anyone here running a full manual valve body?

If you are, couple questions:

1) Are the shifts too harsh, especially at light throttle when you'd like a softer shift?

2) Are you seeing an increase in transmission temps from the line pressure being high all the time?

3) Happy with it, would you do it again?

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Old October 14th, 2009, 11:13 AM   #2
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Full manual valve bodies suck.

1- always full line pressure. sometimes you can get the converter to take up the hit and other times it gets transmitted to the tires.

2- dont know, never owned one. I dont really think you would notice a difference in temperature, it's not like the pump is putting out more pressure, it's just that the clutches are allowed to see it with the mods.

3- I'll never un a full manual valve body, you already have that function in the gear selector. the manual valve in the trans allows manual gear selection, if you need a gear, select it, if you dont then use "D". the only advantage is that a FMVB allows you to start out in second an dmost automatics dont. if you know how to calibrate you can get any gear off the start you want. My trailblazer ss allows me to start out in second gear from a dead stop.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 11:17 AM   #3
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Full manual valve bodies suck.

1- always full line pressure. sometimes you can get the converter to take up the hit and other times it gets transmitted to the tires.

2- dont know, never owned one. I dont really think you would notice a difference in temperature, it's not like the pump is putting out more pressure, it's just that the clutches are allowed to see it with the mods.

3- I'll never un a full manual valve body, you already have that function in the gear selector. the manual valve in the trans allows manual gear selection, if you need a gear, select it, if you dont then use "D". the only advantage is that a FMVB allows you to start out in second an dmost automatics dont. if you know how to calibrate you can get any gear off the start you want. My trailblazer ss allows me to start out in second gear from a dead stop.
My S-10 blazer had this option as well. (trans was a 4l60e)
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Old October 14th, 2009, 11:38 AM   #4
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The advantage of a full manual valve body, is that I don't need to dick around with a TV cable on my 700R4, or dick around with a VSS signal on a 4L60e. Or redline my motor with a TH350 @ 60 mph.

Anyone who actually RUNS one want to chime in?
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Old October 14th, 2009, 11:49 AM   #5
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Because a $250 manual valve body is SO much easier than running a TV cable!!! Sorry for giving you input...
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Old October 14th, 2009, 12:10 PM   #6
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Mine's NOT a FMVB. Just a simple TH350 with a shift kit. I like the fact that it will upshift. My most powerful gear is second/ low range. I usually place my shifter in second & leave it there for hard climbs and/or mud. Under full throttle, my shift from first to second is wicked, which tends to clean out my tires & give me a great launch. Plus, when need be, it will downshift automatically to put me in the proper power band.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 12:44 PM   #7
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Because a $250 manual valve body is SO much easier than running a TV cable!!! Sorry for giving you input...
You've going to spend money on a shift kit one way or the other.

If it was a kickdown cable like you did on Jim's, it'd be different. But if you get that cable wrong on his, the trans doesn't die. On a 700R4, it will.

Its a drive-by-wire motor, no nice way to hook up the throttle body. (2007 L33 vortec 5.3 HO motor, the aluminum block/LS6 head/10:1 comp/bigger cam version...).
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Old October 14th, 2009, 12:44 PM   #8
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Full manual valve bodies suck.

1- always full line pressure. sometimes you can get the converter to take up the hit and other times it gets transmitted to the tires.

2- dont know, never owned one.
thats where I stopped taking your input. Thanks for your experience.

I run a full man rev VB on my buggy with no complaints. The 1/2 shift is firm, no question. On the same side though, the D to R shift is firm, so I don't have to worry about slipping the clutchpacks if I make thatshift under torque. no heat issues. I would do it again in a heartbeat.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 12:57 PM   #9
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I run MVB, so far I am very happy with it.
As long as you have a good shifter, such as an Art Carr, upshifts
and downshifts are not such a chore.
The shift firminess is somewhat selectable, changing accumulator
springs/ pistons, as well as springs in valve body, but they will always be
harder than stock with a MVB.
I have noticed higher trans temp with the MVB versus the stage 2 I did have,
I upgraded to a larger cooler with its own cooling fan.
I can get you the number to a guy who is very good at setting up
transmissions, I sent knaffie to him to get his 350 built, he is very happy
MVB also.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 01:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
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thats where I stopped taking your input. Thanks for your experience.
hehehehe
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Old October 14th, 2009, 01:44 PM   #11
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thats where I stopped taking your input. Thanks for your experience.
Just out of curiousity, how many miles per outing to do drive? my guess would be not enough to get sick of a FMVB and it's shortfalls.

I've got enough experience to know what's worth a shit for certain types of driving and what's not whether I've personally used them or not. I find it hilarious that a manual valve body is even a consideration for an alternative to a TV cable.


Enjoy that manual valve body!
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Old October 14th, 2009, 02:15 PM   #12
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A MVB is a consideration because I usually wheel sticks and I've yet to ever wheel an automatic that didn't piss me off from time to time on shifts.

Again, how would suggest to set up the TV cable?
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Old October 14th, 2009, 02:23 PM   #13
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I run a full manual valve body, I'll never go back in anything I wheel. I have not seen any increase in trans temps, I run a good cooler and good fluid.
Once you get used to it, it becomes second nature with the shifting and such.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 02:31 PM   #14
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MVB would be my choice, Thats whats in the green jeep, and if you dont stand on it you cant even tell it shifts, plus you have total control. Depending on the springpacks and the stall you choose will determine the way it shifts and how hot it gets. This is going to be the way I go in my new project.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 05:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Again, how would suggest to set up the TV cable?
Just about every electronic throttle pedal has a section on it that is steel. That makes it easy to modify. You can either chop it all up and run a typical cable (or just a mechanical link with no cable) throttle to a linkage somewhere (under the hood probably) and then make that cable pull on the electronic pedal and make the linkage for the TV cable from there. Or you could keep most of the electronic pedal intact and bolt another lever on that would go above center of the pivot and then run the TV cable through the firewall and to the throttle pedal. If you really wanted to get creative you could tap into the opposite side the motor is on the TB and make a slave lever on that side to pull the TV cable. Pop the cap off the butterfly valve pivot shaft and you have access to the mechanical end of the throttle control. Lastly you could buy a 90mm cable throttle body and swap out the DBW setup and run it just like it was from the factory back in the early 90's.

If you need a pedal that is easy/easier to work with let me know, I have a couple extra that I dont think will work with my setup.

Lastly, why not just scrap the 700r4 idea and go straight to a 4l60? you can have a manual valve body and a perfectly functioning automatic for the same as making the 700r4 work properly if you're going to spend money on it. The developers now have this available for the 4l60's, it's on my list of mods once I get a 4l60 installed. http://radesignsproducts.com/default.aspx It just piggybacks the currect controls system so you can use one or the other.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 05:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
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The developers now have this available for the 4l60's, it's on my list of mods once I get a 4l60 installed. http://radesignsproducts.com/default.aspx It just piggybacks the currect controls system so you can use one or the other.
I run one of his shifters on my aw4 and so far I love it. I set mine up to just unplug so I can simply plug the tcu back in if need be if the shifter fails for some reason. Its sorta a manual valve body without having to get into the tranny. It doesn't shift hard (factory shifts) but its nice to be in or start in whatever gear I want.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 07:32 PM   #17
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So, I should scrap the trans I have, and spend more money on a computer controlled version of the same trans thats the same gears and strength.

Then spend more on an adapter for my transfer case.

Then bastardize in a 2wd tone ring/vss system so that it can be off by 3:1 factor when I'm in low range and shift wrong.

Then buy a shifter for more money to get manual control?

Is that realistically better somehow?
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Old October 14th, 2009, 08:56 PM   #18
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Is that realistically better somehow?
Not in your head apparently. Do what you want, it's your project.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 09:22 PM   #19
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I run a full manual valve body, I'll never go back in anything I wheel. I have not seen any increase in trans temps, I run a good cooler and good fluid.
Once you get used to it, it becomes second nature with the shifting and such.
x2. I will never go back. Never ever had a trans temp issue because I ran a MVB. Even my wife can drive it with a MVB.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 10:00 PM   #20
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Not in your head apparently. Do what you want, it's your project.
Im not trying to be critical, I'm trying to see what exactly is better. What is better, other than its newer, flashier tech?

You tend to come in and say, Oh, you should do this, its better, anything else is lame. I will always ask 'why is it better'.

What vehicles have you successfully transplanted in an LS motor and 4L60e with a D300 tcase and got them shifting nicely in both high and low range?
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