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Old February 20th, 2014, 07:33 AM   #841
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You missed the point. We'll both hold broom handles with 25lb weights on them. I'll tie mine 1" from the handle, I'll tie yours 22" from the handle. Wanna take bets on who drops it first?
too many variables

that's like betting on a Lion's football season.


I have a hard time picturing that much load going through the bolt, maybe over time.

I do see increased vibration potential because of added torque to the bushings though
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Old February 20th, 2014, 07:56 AM   #842
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Make a removable cradle?
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every circle needs a pivot man
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:05 AM   #843
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That's my plan I think. Take and tie the tubes together, go from one under the oil pan to the other. Way more of a pain in the ass when I take it out but should function fine.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:24 AM   #844
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Make a removable cradle?
This is where my mind goes. Cradle should be easy to remove if done right.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:32 AM   #845
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Cradle ties into skid as well? Make sure your trans mount has the same separation as the engine mounts meow.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:33 AM   #846
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The leverage on the bolt won't be an issue, it'll be too busy tearing the thin walled bushing housings open at the HAZ because beefy didn't wanna spend the extra $2 on good parts
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:35 AM   #847
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Yea I thought about that too it is only .120 wall

What is this crazzieness about separation at the trans mount?

I hope to build a skid as well
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:38 AM   #848
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Okay my $.02

I agree with Brandon. I was gonna do mine similar and after research I didn't wanna break the block. I wasn't concerned about the bolts as the leverage in the boss on the block. While it will support the weight standing still, the weight crashing down in the bolts while wheeling is a bit different.

Take some L shaped plate and weld it to the frame either side of motor. Take another plate same in size and shape and overlap previous plate. Now make outer plate removable via bolts. Weld your tube off the removable plate and still put your bushings at the motor.

Now if you drill some large holes in the frame, take the welded plate and drill the same holes in the same locations only smaller. Now with that plate weld some nuts to the inside of it. So now you take said plate and slide onto the frame. The nuts welded to the plate will be recessed inside the frame rails. Weld this plate to your frame. The second plate that has your tube welded to it will be removable so you can still drop out the bottom but still keep your bushings at the motor reducing the leverage.


Its pictured really well in my head, does that make any sense?
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:40 AM   #849
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Make the frame plate a lot longer as well to strengthen the frame as seen fit.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 08:50 AM   #850
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I'm really confused it's almost identical to how it was setup from the factory. I don't see any problem other than the weld at the motor. I plan to gusset that part.

I understand leverage but this is how it's been setup for years on the truck, I'll put a cradle on it and call it good.

Next topic.

Can I move my lower links in toward the center of the truck 2"? I'm adding a 4th link as well.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 09:01 AM   #851
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This is how I plan to combat the motor mount issue.

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Old February 20th, 2014, 09:11 AM   #852
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Skilz


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Old February 20th, 2014, 09:29 AM   #853
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This is the factory mount.

The left side goes to tabs on the frame, the right side has a flange that bolts to it then to the motor.

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Old February 20th, 2014, 09:29 AM   #854
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I'm really confused it's almost identical to how it was setup from the factory.
This is where I'm confused The picture I put up has the bushing pivot about 2-3" from the side of the block, your current setup looks like 8-12" away from the side of the block. Huge difference.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 09:31 AM   #855
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The pic u posted is not correct for my Dakota. The one I just posted is what I had I'll measure tonight it was over 10" I believe. And it also support the weight of the entire IFS setup before this. So if anything I've lessened the load now.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 09:38 AM   #856
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You might as well just do a midplate setup instead. With bushing that far out it's essentially rigid mounted anyway.
I don't think driveline vibes are going to hurt your ride quality any

Like dis but betterer, hell it'll probably mount to the rear of the van cage
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Last edited by feva4u; February 20th, 2014 at 09:43 AM.
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Old February 20th, 2014, 09:53 AM   #857
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I can't drill that many holes accurately lets be honest here...
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Old February 20th, 2014, 09:54 AM   #858
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Oh and because..

Race car
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Old February 20th, 2014, 10:20 AM   #859
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I can't drill that many holes accurately lets be honest here...
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Old February 20th, 2014, 11:50 AM   #860
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Midplate is less likely to break than what you have now
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