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Old August 26th, 2009, 09:23 PM   #1
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Alright i got a good one im stumped, I have a 84 chevy with a 350, i bought the truck off my neighbor who bought it off the guy who built it (aviator pick). Now according to my resources that knew the guy the motor is a 383, but from how it runs (like shit) i dont think so. Now my father and i pulled the starter off weeks ago to put a new on, and it wouldnt fit, it sat to far away from the flexplate instead of to close where we could shim it and also the bolts felt like they were to long, like they were bottoming out in the block. Now today i pulled it off to give it another try, because it feels weak and it came to my notice that the F&%#er's milled the top of the starter off, flat, but only with a hacksaw. Now i had an extra flexplate at the house from another 350, measured the circumfrance of that and measured mine, they were the same. It seems to be a 168 toth flexplate, since i know you can get them with 153 teeth. Now my questions come, why wont a regular starter fit without millng off the top were it meets the block? I was under the understanding it was a 153 tooth flexplate but i was wrong. Say it is a 383, is the diameter of a 400 flexplate smaller than a 350's. If i were to go with a powermaster would that work? They make an open an close face starter i have the open, should it have a closed face? Has Anyone ever seen anything like this before, Im frustrated and want to kick the f%$#'s a$$ who cut all the corners to get the truck on the road. Throw your ideas out there im up for anything anyone has to offer
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Old August 26th, 2009, 09:27 PM   #2
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o it has a th350 tranny
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Old August 26th, 2009, 09:47 PM   #3
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i'm willing to bet they installed the wrong starter for the application. if the bolts on the starter are straight across it's made for a 153 tooth. if the bolts are staggered it's made for the 168 tooth. which one do you have?

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Old August 26th, 2009, 10:20 PM   #4
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I got the staggered one but have both sets of starters laying around the garage and have both sets of holes on the block. I got a million things going through my head of what this dumbass was thinking, could he have used a pontiac flexplate, could my motor be meant to run a 153 tooth flexplate, which in turn would mean i would need a compatiable starter. For what i have fixed on the truck i could have bought a new dmax, its the pitty shit like this that i didnt notice until i tore it apart.
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Old August 26th, 2009, 10:27 PM   #5
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take a picture of where the starter goes and post. that would help out.
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Old August 26th, 2009, 10:32 PM   #6
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I might have it up by the weekend, it's my daily driver also, so i had to get it cobbled back together to make it to work and back for tomarrow, but ill try to get some tomarrow night, especially if it would help ill also take a pic of the starter, now i noticed the torque converter didnt have the factory nuts welded to it like most, so im guessing it is aftermarket or remanufactured, atleast he has hardened bolts in place, with nuts, but would that mean anything
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Old August 27th, 2009, 06:19 AM   #7
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usually the closed nose starter is for 4x4 and the open is for 2x4, should not make that much of a difference though, the difference between a 153 tooth flywheel starter and a 168 tooth flywheel starter is huge, there should be probably almost and inch of space between the cross corner starter and the 153 tooth flywheel! good luck
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Old August 27th, 2009, 03:35 PM   #8
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Would a closed nose starter fit the same as an open or does it fit tighter to the flexplate, what makes it meant for 4x4's, is it because the close nose prevents dirt and debris from getting in?
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Old August 27th, 2009, 04:14 PM   #9
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Has anyone ever heard of someone shaving the top of the starter to make it fit, If so why is that
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Old August 27th, 2009, 04:25 PM   #10
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someone over shaved the block aline boring it? most likely they took off way more then your supposed to and now you have issues. plus if they did that your torque converter center will be off also, it will make the flex plate ring and most likely break around the bolts on the crank if its what I suspect. and kiss your front pump goodbye.
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Old August 27th, 2009, 04:27 PM   #11
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ps, the bad running could be from the timing chain being so loose its trying to jump. most guys have to go gear to gear if they are running this set up.
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Old August 27th, 2009, 06:04 PM   #12
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i do believe the closed nose starter is closer, but don't quote me.
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Old August 27th, 2009, 09:31 PM   #13
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well thats exactly what i thought with the timing chain, so i tore it apart and found it had a double roller timing chain and checked the slack in it and everything checked out good, the worst part was trying to get the oil pan to reseal, it was chrome cheap aftermarket shit, i think i replaced the gasket atleats five times even tried using a different style gasket (cork style) and the crank hit the side of the pan, so i had to go back to the one piece thicker style, and a factory pan. Now say they did shave to much align boring the block, what do they do usually about the starter situation? Im not happy about the hack job they did on the original starter, i was almost thinking of going with a power master and having the top of the starter machined to match my flywheel. Also what do u mean about a front pump??
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Old August 28th, 2009, 06:14 AM   #14
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it the block is shaved too much the torque convertor will be off center in the transmission causing severe wear on the front pump in the trans, i do remember one time i ran into it where gm offered a cast iron nose starter back in the day, i had a car one time where the starter would not interchange, it was on an old school motor in a newer car, try to find a cast iron nose starter. High Tech starters and alternators by me may be able to help, it's in benton harbor MI, 269-944-4050, they are open till 3 today, call and ask for Steve. he may help
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Old August 28th, 2009, 06:19 PM   #15
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Ok, I think I may have found the problem. the guys whom I work with once worked for GM proving grounds. one of them remembered a vintage `71 engine that used a strange starter set up. he said it was specific to that year. he said the started mounted weird and no other starter would fit it. so do me a favor and do your home work on goofy starters for that year or near that year. it may leed to a fix.
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Old August 28th, 2009, 06:53 PM   #16
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heres a nice chart I found.
http://50chevy.freeservers.com/Starter_Bellhousing.html
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Old August 29th, 2009, 07:05 AM   #17
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its probably the cast iron starter, been there and done that, it only fits certain year engines, if you can't figure it out, CALL hi-tech and talk to steve, he is a wizard at starters and alternators!
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Old August 30th, 2009, 06:12 PM   #18
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Thanks guys, I think i have to go to the old school straight bolt pattern starter, instead of the staggered, my father went to the junk yard and got one and it seems us that it is the right one meant for my motor, but if i have anymore questions ill definetly pick you minds
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