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Old August 14th, 2009, 03:13 PM   #61
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Mine was $2600 for the engine from fan to flywheel. Included the starter, alternator, air compressor, power steering pump, ecm, wiring harness, drive by wire pedal, wiring harness and module. No trans or t-case.
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Old August 14th, 2009, 04:29 PM   #62
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Jim, you must have misunderstood me when I metioned what Nick paid for his 5.3

He has $2500 into the motor and trans from Schrams, 5.3 4l60E with 1,200 miles on it
came with ECM and complete harness all out of the same truck. He adapted to his 231.
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Old August 14th, 2009, 07:09 PM   #63
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Yeah the red jeep is kind of extreme but I like it. Not to sure how it would handle touchy crawlin. But man I bet it's a hoot in a strait line. Is he part of the Speedfixx crowd that had videos of a couple wranglers with 5.3l's romping around the dunes?
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Old August 14th, 2009, 08:34 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
What trans is it? 4L80, 4L85? pretty sure first gear ratios are the same as the 4L60's so it's either the converter or torque management that you're noticing.
No 4L60e and 4L85e have different ratios!

Here's 4L85e specs,
Transmission General Specifications
Name
Hydra-Matic® 4L80-E

RPO Codes
MT1

Production Location
Ypsilanti, MI

Vehicle Platform - Engine/Transmission - Usage
C/K, C/K 800, G, P32/42

Transmission Drive
Longitudinally Mounted Rear Wheel Drive

1st Gear Ratio
2.482:1

2nd Gear Ratio
1.482:1

3rd Gear Ratio
1.000:1

4th Gear Ratio
0.750:1

Reverse
2.077:1

Torque Converter Size - Diameter of Torque Converter Turbine
310 mm

Here's 4L65e
Transmission General Specifications
Transmission General Specifications (4L60-E) Name
Hydra-matic 4L60-E

RPO Codes
M30, M32, M70

Production Location
Toledo, Ohio

Romulus, MI

Vehicle Platform, Engine/Transmission, Usage
C/K (GMT 800)

Transmission Drive
Longitudinally-Mounted Rear Wheel Drive

1st Gear Ratio
3.059:1

2nd Gear Ratio
1.625:1

3rd Gear Ratio
1.000:1

4th Gear Ratio
0.696:1

Reverse
2.294:1

Torque Converter Size, Diameter of Torque Converter Turbine
300 mm

Oh and to be clear, 4L65e and 4L60e have the same gearing, the only difference
is the input shaft and sometimes a 5 pinion planetary.
The 4L80e and 4L85e also share the same gearing.

Last edited by MILKTOST; August 14th, 2009 at 08:38 PM.
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Old August 14th, 2009, 09:16 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Jim, you must have misunderstood me when I metioned what Nick paid for his 5.3

He has $2500 into the motor and trans from Schrams, 5.3 4l60E with 1,200 miles on it
came with ECM and complete harness all out of the same truck. He adapted to his 231.
Yup, you are right. I misquoted you. Sorry for that.
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Old August 17th, 2009, 02:34 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Jim, you must have misunderstood me when I metioned what Nick paid for his 5.3

He has $2500 into the motor and trans from Schrams, 5.3 4l60E with 1,200 miles on it
came with ECM and complete harness all out of the same truck. He adapted to his 231.
i Actually paid $2300 for my set up.

Check out pirate for some good info on all gen III swaps.

5.3 Jeeps - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
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Old August 17th, 2009, 08:52 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
valve springs are usually only the required upgrade for a cam because of the higher lift and faster acceleration rates of the valvetrain with the bigger lobes needs more spring to keep it under control. I went with hollow stem sodium something filled valves and .080" wall chromoly push rods to help stiffen my valvetrain up in addition to the springs.

you will only be disappointed with the power if you want a race car. a 5.3L isnt going to pull like a modded diesel, it will move around just fine and on the top end it'll suprize you. a 6.0L can be modded for a couple grand and make your jeep run 120 mph in the quarter mile and to some that's too much power and others that's just right.

you have to find out what you want out of it and tehn make that decision on your own... maybe go for a ride with some people before you make your final decision.

for 3k I'd go with the 6.0L. for 1500 I'd do a 5.3L
For mods I agree, for the rest I think you're not giving the 5.3L enough credit. The 6.0L is certainly better but it's not THAT much different. You can get plenty of power out of 5.3s normally aspirated, and more than you'll ever need with forced induction. They'll take some serious abuse too, just like any of the LSx line. For a Jeep a 5.3 is plenty, the only real reason it's worth getting a 6.0L is bragging rights.....and this is coming from a guy with a 6.0L!! They're all great engines, it's just a matter of whether you wanna pay $1000 for a loaded 5.3 or $1500 for a loaded 6.0L LQ4. Plan on another $3-500 for an LQ9, which is a waste IMO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
I paid $2600 at Schramm's for my 6.0. I heard of someone getting a 5.3+trans+t-case from them for $1600 but it sounds way too low to me.
Scramm's has a nice selection but their prices are pretty damn high. I got a 2003 LQ4 6.0L with 10k miles from a salvage yard in Claire for $1400. It came with every accessory, even down to a flexplate for an auto AND a full flywheel/clutch assembly for a manual.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
What trans is it? 4L80, 4L85? pretty sure first gear ratios are the same as the 4L60's so it's either the converter or torque management that you're noticing.
The guy above listed gearing for the 4L65 and 4L85....the 60 and 80 are the same. 3.06:1 first in the 60, 2.49:1 in the 80. Not ideal gearing but you can't argue with the 80's strength!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by somer1 View Post
95geo I to like to run the dunes as you can see in my avatar I'm a windage and ellevation kind of guy, So I want power, don't get me wrong I like to crawl but there is somthin about the dunes that makes you want to go fast, plus all my buddies run V8 's and like two race. I think that a LQ9 with a good tune and maybe a 100 shot of the go juice would realy surprise them.
Go for the LQ4, a good tune, and 100 shot. If you really want more power then use the money you saved by not getting an LQ9 and do a cam swap in the LQ4.....a nice cam will add a ridiculous amount of power to those things.


Anymore questions feel free to ask away, I've researched the crap out of this subject. But beware, it's addictive. I started off with a $50 5.3L that I was gonna rebuild to an iron block 5.7L, then bought a LQ4 6.0L, then parts for a cam swap. Most of my buddies have fast trucks so I want my Scrambler to be able to show them who's boss....no real reason why, just cuz I can. I quickly learned that a modded 6.0L will wreak havoc on the 700R4(essentially the same as a 4L60E) I was gonna run and ended up trading it for a 4L80E. Now I'm gonna put the 4L80E to the test with some good ole forced induction. I'm gonna run a turbo just for the hell of it. Pointless for rocks but stupid fun for street and dunes, and I'm doing it for far cheaper than I could supercharge it for. With a decent tune and 8lbs of boost I'll easily be able to put out 600hp at the crank. I'm gonna run a fairly small turbo(70 or 76mm) for quick spooling and maximize power under the curve.....a bigger turbo and I could do 700hp without much trouble, but peak hp isn't my goal, go-fast power in the range I can use it is.

Anyway, enough from me....any more questions?
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Old August 18th, 2009, 08:18 AM   #68
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For mods I agree, for the rest I think you're not giving the 5.3L enough credit. The 6.0L is certainly better but it's not THAT much different.
The only reason I'm not giving a 5.3/4.8L block as much credit as the 6.0L blocks is because of the bore size. Sure you can bore the 5.3L out a ton and get the displacement you're after but in relatively stock form (95% of people with them) they arent going to be able to put the cheapest and easiest HP add ons ontot he engine. stock casting L92 heads, intake, cam and supporting mods will put out a lot more power per $ than a 5.3L that is limited to the cathedral port heads and valve size. GM performance parts now has heads available for the smaller valves but allows you to run rectangular port heads on the smaller bore. (19201807) You're not getting the benifits of the larger valves though.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ View Post

Scramm's has a nice selection but their prices are pretty damn high. I got a 2003 LQ4 6.0L with 10k miles from a salvage yard in Claire for $1400. It came with every accessory, even down to a flexplate for an auto AND a full flywheel/clutch assembly for a manual.
Jim didnt have time to search, he needed a complete setup and quick. If he had the luxury of searching for months he could have gotten one for a bit less. Keep in mind he had that engine when it was only a fey years old and with around 8,000 miles if I remember right. How much do you think you could get an L92 for right now? It's about the same situation.
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Old August 18th, 2009, 09:54 AM   #69
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Think that was his point, though.

If you are building a motor, start with the bigger bore size.

If you aren't going to much to it, a 5.3 is a lot cheaper. intake, cam, exhaust, tune is an easy 350 hp on them.
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Old August 18th, 2009, 12:30 PM   #70
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Think that was his point, though.

If you are building a motor, start with the bigger bore size.

If you aren't going to much to it, a 5.3 is a lot cheaper. intake, cam, exhaust, tune is an easy 350 hp on them.
Exactly my point. With those mods and lightly milled stock heads my buddy is putting down very impressive power out of a very mild 5.3. He runs in the mid 13s in the 1/4 in a 4800lb truck and an unimpressive tune. Even if you already have a 5.3 and want big power without tearing into it go forced induction. Another buddy of mine (who's a member on here also) has a 5.3, ZO6 cam, and Magnacharger running around 9lbs of boost in a ~5200lb 4wd truck and it's downright fast as hell. Hell, there's a guy over on the west side of the state running a turbocharged aluminum 5.3 in a 4wd truck on 35s and he put down almost 700hp to the wheels! 5.3s are no slouch, it's just a matter of what you have planned for it and whether it's worth the extra coin for a larger bore.
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Old August 18th, 2009, 12:36 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somer1 View Post
Yeah the red jeep is kind of extreme but I like it. Not to sure how it would handle touchy crawlin. But man I bet it's a hoot in a strait line. Is he part of the Speedfixx crowd that had videos of a couple wranglers with 5.3l's romping around the dunes?
yes- that thing is a bullet in a straight line and yes, he's in Speedfixx. A few of the guys run the 5.3's with a 250 shot of the bottle and they are stupid fast too....

I assumed that with your questions pertaining to this thread you were looking for a fast poewerplant, not a crawler......
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Old August 18th, 2009, 01:27 PM   #72
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and Magnacharger running around 9lbs of boost

a turbocharged aluminum 5.3
Forced induction can make anything powerful and is by no means cheaper than a narutally aspirated engine. I was speaking strictly about naturally aspirated 5.3L potential vs. 6.0L potential. The 5.3 has a limit to what you can get away with and still have low end torque, the 6.0L has a lot more potential, that's all I'm saying or comparing.
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Old August 18th, 2009, 02:40 PM   #73
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yes- that thing is a bullet in a straight line and yes, he's in Speedfixx. A few of the guys run the 5.3's with a 250 shot of the bottle and they are stupid fast too....

I assumed that with your questions pertaining to this thread you were looking for a fast poewerplant, not a crawler......
Would like to know what they have done to run the 250 shot, or what they can run with it???

Also would appreciate knowing where to research the turbo set-ups.

This thread is full of win!!!
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Old August 18th, 2009, 02:45 PM   #74
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ls1tech is your friend.......
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Old August 18th, 2009, 06:33 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
Forced induction can make anything powerful and is by no means cheaper than a narutally aspirated engine. I was speaking strictly about naturally aspirated 5.3L potential vs. 6.0L potential. The 5.3 has a limit to what you can get away with and still have low end torque, the 6.0L has a lot more potential, that's all I'm saying or comparing.
And I completely agree. My point started off with cheap, easy, reliable power on the 5.3 then went overboard from there.

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Would like to know what they have done to run the 250 shot, or what they can run with it???

Also would appreciate knowing where to research the turbo set-ups.

This thread is full of win!!!
Probably not much done to them. I've got a buddy who's been trying to kill the 5.3 in his C10 for like 2 years. He ran a 175 shot on it and beat the snot out of it, including accidently hitting the nitrous at redline numerous times with NO issues, and is now running 12lbs of non-intercooled boost with no issues. He's got an LQ9 just sitting in the garage with no reason to swap it.

LS1tech.com is a great resource for any and all LSx info. I can also answer quite a few questions on turbo setups since I've done a lot of research for mine.
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Old August 18th, 2009, 06:45 PM   #76
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nitrous- anything under 100 should be ok with the existing tune, premium fuel would be a good idea. If you want to run a lot more then you will need to have your calibration modified for less timing and more fuel so the ignition charge doesnt preignite too much before top dead center or you'll be looking through your block in no time.

I use www.ls1tech.com almost daily. Lots of info there, just dont choose your cam based on something a car guy runs. If you want something comparable to what we do then www.tbssowners.com is another good place because the power curves on most of those trucks is something that our vehicles would do well with.

For some reason I cant get the idea of twin 62mm turbo's on the TBSS out of my head
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Old August 19th, 2009, 10:38 AM   #77
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Going back to engine prices. I got my engine from Morris Rose Auto (Im pretty sure thats the name) and I got my '03 60K mile 5.3 from the fan to the flywheel with all accesories (alt was bad though) and wiring harness (was cut at the trans though.)
I got there and they started the engine and ran it and then pulled it. I got a 2 yr warrenty on the engine and I paid $800.

I also got the peddle for DBW.
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Old August 19th, 2009, 12:06 PM   #78
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I have to stick up for Schram's as a great place for take-out motors. Mine was $4K (2007) delivered to OH for a <500mi LQ9 motor, 4L65e trans, TC, with all the accessories, cables, control modules, hoses, fittings, etc. (Easily $2-3K under what an installed crate motor would have run by the time I added a starter, alt, P/S pump, A/C comp, etc. let alone the trans et al.) The power train was well packaged on the pallet and arrived in perfect condition.

On my DBW setup they omitted the TAC module. As I was working on other stuff, I really didn't notice 'til more than 90 days from the time it got here. One email exchange and they sent a TAC and a matching pedal (Just in case the original pedal was different.) No hassle, no charge.

On installation the motor started within 1-2 revs without any . Between everything being "as advertised" and the integrity of the customer service process, I'd recommend them in a heartbeat.
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Old August 20th, 2009, 10:24 PM   #79
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sandviper, yeah I'm looking for speed but more so reliability and drivability as my jeep see the street alot. I just want somthin' with some get up and go. So you think an LQ4 would be better than a Lq9. I was thinking the Lq9 as the wiring harness works already for the 4l60e, plus I would like to find a motor/tranny combo and I don't have room for the 4l80e plus I would have to run a different tranfercase. What cam is everybody running and did you have to do anything else?
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Old August 21st, 2009, 12:00 AM   #80
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The harness should be interchangeable between an LQ4 or LQ9 depending on year, and for either one you should be able to find it set up for either trans. My cam is a 224/224 .581 111LSA. It's fairly aggressive for offroad use but torque won't exactly be a problem with an LQ4 regardless. I'd aim for something in the 214-220 range for all around use. You'll want to upgrade valve springs for sure(yellow LS6 springs are good for .550 lift, Comp 918s are also a good option, I think they work well to around .625 lift), pushrods some people do and some don't, a good tune is needed for sure, and bigger injectors will probably be needed. Some people get away with less but I wouldn't want to risk it from what I've seen.

Cam- $300
Valvesprings- $180
Pushrods- $100
Injectors- $300
Tune- $200-400
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