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Old August 10th, 2009, 07:25 PM   #1
Hoss Blazer
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Default Brakes!!!

So over the years ive built my 1977 blazer up. I put a Dana 60 up front and a 14 bolt ff in the rear. With 16/35-16.5 super swamper boggers. Now the brakes need to be upgrades because it still has the stop braking system from 1977. What should i do to get the blazer to stop better? Hydroboost system or something else??
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Old August 11th, 2009, 07:10 AM   #2
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Bump for some help!!!
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Old August 11th, 2009, 10:19 AM   #3
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does this still have the 1/2 ton booster? if so swap it for a 1 ton.

might have to get a new master with it, i think i just saw a set for sale in the parts section.

If you have done the 1 ton swap, hydro would be the next step as far as i know.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 11:05 AM   #4
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does this still have the 1/2 ton booster? if so swap it for a 1 ton.

might have to get a new master with it, i think i just saw a set for sale in the parts section.

If you have done the 1 ton swap, hydro would be the next step as far as i know.
Ya its still the 1/2 stuff! So would i get it for a 1ton 1977 or for a 1 ton 1986 cause thats what the front is out of?3

PS... nice blazer wanna trade?? lol
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Old August 11th, 2009, 12:50 PM   #5
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1) when you say the front, I assume you mean the front axle.

Also, if you swapped to a 14 bolt in back (along with the 60), and never changed your booster or cylinder, i'm surprised it's stopping remotely decent.

do you have 4 wheel disc? if so, the volume moved to stop the truck is insufficent(sp) along with your proportioning valve. (that is, if it was drum previously and now disc.) if it was disc originally, then the proportioning valve is probably fine.

as for what year booster and cylinder, i don't think it matters, i would stick with 1 ton , with the same year, and revisit that proportioning valve.

if you go to the newer year , you might have some fab work on the mounting.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 01:32 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by atvextreme View Post
1) when you say the front, I assume you mean the front axle.

Also, if you swapped to a 14 bolt in back (along with the 60), and never changed your booster or cylinder, i'm surprised it's stopping remotely decent.

do you have 4 wheel disc? if so, the volume moved to stop the truck is insufficent(sp) along with your proportioning valve. (that is, if it was drum previously and now disc.) if it was disc originally, then the proportioning valve is probably fine.

as for what year booster and cylinder, i don't think it matters, i would stick with 1 ton , with the same year, and revisit that proportioning valve.

if you go to the newer year , you might have some fab work on the mounting.
OK this is what happened when i bought it it already had a 44/14blt axle combo under it. I broke the 44 three times and bought a 60 now it doesn't want to stop. I don't have 4 wheel disc because its not really worth it. Plus it's pushing 35" boggers now too!
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Old August 11th, 2009, 01:37 PM   #7
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ive never heard of a problem of a rig not stopping after the 60 was swappthe rear disc swap is a pretty common thing. are you sure both calipers are good? both working as they should?
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Old August 11th, 2009, 08:01 PM   #8
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I'm gonna pull the front tires off this weekend to see what is going on!! But i really don't see the need to for rear disc because they only do 30% of the work and if you always in the mud it doesn't really pay off in my eyes!
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Old August 12th, 2009, 07:26 AM   #9
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Your right about not needing the rear disc. I would check all the brakes and make sure the backs are adjusted and clean. The rotors need to be thick enough to stop right as do the pads need to be better quality. If all thicknesses are good and rotors aren't too thin, I would adjust the rear better and bleed all four. Also bleed it at the master. This is the easiest and cheapest thing to do first if all the brakes are good.
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Old August 12th, 2009, 09:24 AM   #10
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Ya i gotta power wash it this tonight, then i'm taking it to the shop to check it out! Hydroboost would be nice but it's kinda expensive! This is a low buck mud bogger!
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Old August 21st, 2009, 01:14 PM   #11
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Gonna buy a 1977 chevy 1 ton master sylinder and try that because the bore is alot bigger. The stock one i have now is 1.125 and the 1 ton is 1.312 bore. SO hopefully it will stop alot better!!
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Old August 21st, 2009, 01:16 PM   #12
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I can point you at a hydroboost system for maybe 50$ with hoses? Simple fix to your brake issues
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Old August 21st, 2009, 01:24 PM   #13
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I can point you at a hydroboost system for maybe 50$ with hoses? Simple fix to your brake issues
Is that the one thats on here for sale?? Or in our neck of the woods??

With hoses, pump and everything??
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Old August 21st, 2009, 01:36 PM   #14
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the guy in TC thats on here, or there's one at swaine's. I need to go down there this weekend to pick up a windshield seal and some other random parts....
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Old August 21st, 2009, 01:47 PM   #15
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What guy from TC? Ya i haven't been to Swaines in a while!
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Old August 21st, 2009, 02:07 PM   #16
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ttocsnekia, but his is sold already, so scratch that idea.
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Old August 22nd, 2009, 01:48 PM   #17
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What exactly is the problem with the brakes? Spongy pedal? Need too much pedal force to stop? Just seem weak? Have they been that way since the swap?

Iíve been running a 60/14 bolt combo for years with both rear drums and then rear discs using a 3/4 ton m/c and the stock 88 booster and proportioning valve. No issues (other than it was a PITA to bleed).


Good advice!
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Your right about not needing the rear disc. I would check all the brakes and make sure the backs are adjusted and clean. The rotors need to be thick enough to stop right as do the pads need to be better quality. If all thicknesses are good and rotors aren't too thin, I would adjust the rear better and bleed all four. Also bleed it at the master. This is the easiest and cheapest thing to do first if all the brakes are good.

As for rear discs, you can get along fine without them, though there are benefits other than just braking power. The main reason I switched is for easier cleaning and servicing of the rear brakes. As you know, with the 14 bolt rear drums you have to pull the axle shaft and the hubs to get the drum off. Then you have to either repack the bearings or be very careful not to knock any dirt in them while cleaning the drum out. I avoid mud whenever possible, but crap still got in the drums and there was no good way to wash it out. With the discs that is not a problem and they can simply be hosed off if they get extremely dirty.
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Old August 24th, 2009, 05:19 PM   #18
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Ya it seem like it have to put the pedal to the floor for it to stop. So i'm gonna try a new master w/ a bigger bore and see if it works. It's the original one form a blazer thats on it right now.
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Old August 26th, 2009, 09:59 AM   #19
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Upgrade the rubber flex hoses to stainless braided hose! I'm in the process of doing this to my towing rig (along with full stainless lines), and have heard lots of good things about it from guys who ride bikes to light weight cars.
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Old August 26th, 2009, 10:02 AM   #20
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Upgrade the rubber flex hoses to stainless braided hose! I'm in the process of doing this to my towing rig (along with full stainless lines), and have heard lots of good things about it from guys who ride bikes to light weight cars.
Already are! Any other things i could try?
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