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Old August 11th, 2009, 10:14 PM   #21
barry1me
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According to one of the release engineers I work with at ford on the P356 program he said that the 06 and 07 MY 6.0L had much less warranty claims then the last two years of production that the 7.3L was around.

I for one am a fan of the 6.0L. Do a $400 SCT tuner, remove the EGR cooler and block off the Up pipe and let it rip. Im in the market right now to buy another 6.0L
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Old August 12th, 2009, 12:13 AM   #22
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6 leakers can be alright with head studs and an EGR delete, like already mentioned. But some also do have injector problems, as well as problems with the variable geometry turbos (VGT) found on them. Instead of using a waste gate, the vanes on a VGT open and close and can sometimes stick, requiring them to either be cleaned or replaced. They do make more power stock and have the potential for much more, even with a stock trans. When it comparing stock engines, the 7.3L will beat the 6.0 hands down in the long run when it comes to reliability. However, it takes a whole lot more to make a 7.3L push 400hp compared to a 6.0. The '01 and newer 7.3s have powdered metal rods compared to the forged rods found in the '99 and '00 as well as all the pre Superduty Powerstrokes. The powdered rods are perfectly fine stock, but will give when you start making 350+ hp. I guess it all just depends what you want to do with it. Personally if I was just looking for just a tow rig/dd, I would find a nice 7.3L due to the fact that they are ready to go 300,000+ miles stock easily. I wouldn't ever even consider owning a 6.0 without head studs and the EGR system gone, and doing head studs isn't cheap if you have a shop do them.
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Old August 12th, 2009, 07:47 AM   #23
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6 leakers can be alright with head studs and an EGR delete, like already mentioned. But some also do have injector problems, as well as problems with the variable geometry turbos (VGT) found on them. Instead of using a waste gate, the vanes on a VGT open and close and can sometimes stick, requiring them to either be cleaned or replaced. They do make more power stock and have the potential for much more, even with a stock trans. When it comparing stock engines, the 7.3L will beat the 6.0 hands down in the long run when it comes to reliability. However, it takes a whole lot more to make a 7.3L push 400hp compared to a 6.0. The '01 and newer 7.3s have powdered metal rods compared to the forged rods found in the '99 and '00 as well as all the pre Superduty Powerstrokes. The powdered rods are perfectly fine stock, but will give when you start making 350+ hp. I guess it all just depends what you want to do with it. Personally if I was just looking for just a tow rig/dd, I would find a nice 7.3L due to the fact that they are ready to go 300,000+ miles stock easily. I wouldn't ever even consider owning a 6.0 without head studs and the EGR system gone, and doing head studs isn't cheap if you have a shop do them.
yep, PMR's SUCK! I already have a set of factory forged rods waiting to be installed when I tear into the engine. The problem im running into now is to see how much trans work im going to need to get done for my power/towing needs.
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Old August 12th, 2009, 09:49 AM   #24
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Some model year 2000's have PMR's also. Ford installed them in several engines for testing in the 2000 model year trucks. After that when they made the switch to the PMR's they ran out of stock so it is possible to have a 2001 with forged rods as mine does as they started using them again until they had enough PMR's to continue on with those. The only true way to tell which rods you have is to open the inspection port just above the oil filter housing on the driver side of the block and look at the rods. For the original poster try thedieselgarage.com for lots of info on the 6.0l. Most of the info above is correct. The 6.0l did have it's share of problems but they worked out most of those. In the 2003 the EGR was a different design that didn't have many problems, then they went to a different design that had all kinds of problems so they switched back to a design more like the 2003's I believe in 2006. The 2003 did have injector problems and would puke coolant if pushing it hard as the heads would lift due to not enough head bolts around the cylinder. The 06-07's have been pretty reliable even with a tuner installed. But as mentioned above head studs and the EGR delete would be good things to do. These trucks will run like a raped ape with just an exhaust and a tuner though. The trans seems to hold up very well in these trucks. Still the optimum truck is a Ford Super Duty with a Cummins swap. I have a 7.3l that has quite a few mods and I love it but wish I had the Cummins instead. You can get a set of injectors for a Cummins for under a $1000.00, a set of injectors for a 7.3l will cost you up to $3,000.00 then you have to get big oil to supply the injectors so you're looking at another $1500-$2500.00 for that. Then a new turbo to keep EGT's in check will run you between $1800-$2500. For the guy that says he wants a GTP38R you might want to do some research. Yes they are good turbos but they are costly and are not rebuildable with just compressor seals and bearings and such. You will have to purchase another center section to rebuild it at a cost of $1500. or more. There are other turbos out there that will do just as good and alot that do better than the GTP38R. I have a GTP38 Hybrid on my truck now. I had a GTP38R and after just 30,000 miles it took a dump on me the compressor seals went and it started pumping oil out my exhaust pipe. I tried to get a rebuild kit and found there isn't one you have to buy the center section. The cheapest I found it was $1500. My hybrid has the ATS potred compressor shroud, the ATS 1.00 exhaust housing, a Banks wicked wheel, highspeed extreme duty bearings, and an adjustable wastegate,all for under $1,000.00. It spools just as fast if not faster than the GTP38R I had,does not surge at all, and whistles like you wouldn't believe, and was a complete drop in turbo. And a rebuild kit can be had for $95.00 for it.
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Old August 13th, 2009, 12:58 AM   #25
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yep, PMR's SUCK! I already have a set of factory forged rods waiting to be installed when I tear into the engine. The problem im running into now is to see how much trans work im going to need to get done for my power/towing needs.
Agreed. Stock they're perfectly fine, but if you're looking to make any serious power they gotta go. Usually 350+ hp is the threshold, but I have seen a few select 7.3L with PMRs make close to 400hp, although I wouldn't ever trust it. But it also takes ALOT to make a 7.3L push 400+ hp. It kind of makes me miss my '99 7.3L. As far as the trans goes, for now I'd just drop in a nice Suncoast or ATS converter and a shift kit for now and take it from there.


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Some model year 2000's have PMR's also. Ford installed them in several engines for testing in the 2000 model year trucks. After that when they made the switch to the PMR's they ran out of stock so it is possible to have a 2001 with forged rods as mine does as they started using them again until they had enough PMR's to continue on with those. The only true way to tell which rods you have is to open the inspection port just above the oil filter housing on the driver side of the block and look at the rods.
True. But I wouldn't count on finding a 2001 or newer with forged rods. One guy on Powerstroke Nation supposedly pulled the inspection plug on his '02 to find he has forged rods. But it's just a complete luck of the draw.
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Old August 13th, 2009, 09:34 AM   #26
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Agreed. Stock they're perfectly fine, but if you're looking to make any serious power they gotta go. Usually 350+ hp is the threshold, but I have seen a few select 7.3L with PMRs make close to 400hp, although I wouldn't ever trust it. But it also takes ALOT to make a 7.3L push 400+ hp. It kind of makes me miss my '99 7.3L. As far as the trans goes, for now I'd just drop in a nice Suncoast or ATS converter and a shift kit for now and take it from there.



True. But I wouldn't count on finding a 2001 or newer with forged rods. One guy on Powerstroke Nation supposedly pulled the inspection plug on his '02 to find he has forged rods. But it's just a complete luck of the draw.

yep after talking to a guy im gonna run a Precision Industries converter & a Tom Woods valve body, no need to rebuild a good working trans. As long as you keep it cool, up shift pressure and replace the converter i can go to 500+hp
hummmm im gonna have to peak into my inspection plug and take a look, http://67.19.132.3/dieselinnovations...g2_itemId=1524
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Old August 13th, 2009, 01:04 PM   #27
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Skooter Built I see you have found the link explaining where and what to look for. Might I suggest a clyinder inspection light and a mirror to get a really good look at the rods. This is what I had to use to see mine clearly enough. I laid feet sticking out the passenger side ,stuck the mirror and lightup by the hole and could see really well in that posistion. The plug takes a 5/16" square drive to get out. I used the square end of one of my nail set tools and a small adjustable (crescent) wrench, as I didn't have any other 5/16" square stock or tools. Might I also suggest calling RacerX Automotive for a converter and a valve body and tell him Gene told you to call his name is Bill. His number is 803-854-0040. He's a great guy with good pricing for the common man.His website is www.racerxautomotive.com if you want to check out his offerings before calling him.
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