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Old July 19th, 2009, 05:30 PM   #1
FQXehhhh
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Default School me on 5.4

I bought this 2003 f150 with a 5.4 from my mom back in late 05. It has 130k on the clock and is starting to show it. My mom says she paid the dealership to do "maintenance" work around 70k. Well i don't see any receipts so i figured it's time to do things like plugs, COPS, fuel filter, tranny filter, ect. Trust me, i know this stuff needs to be taken care of at around 100k but i am a broke college student and finally have some money to spend

I don't need a "let me google that for you" link because i have googled and have searched this forum and f150forum/f150online. None of the results i got go as in depth as people on here.

So what did/would you at 100,000 for maintenance? I know the basics but i would like a 5.4 guru's advice. Any step by step links would be awesome

Thanks for any help.
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Old July 19th, 2009, 07:07 PM   #2
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important is USE 5w20 full synthetic with motorcraft oil filter.


if you don't use right oil weight you destroy 5.4L. They have tight bearing clearance.


They are pretty damn tough engine I have use before. I know 1 guy who abusive his 01 F250 xlt lariat by plow snow plus 55 mph in reverse

hit 6,500 rpm often. didn't change oil 30,000 miles overdue. Now I maintain his truck for now.

Clean throttle body with old toothbrush you be surprise how carbon fill on it.

Change spark plug at 50,000 to 60,000 miles and follow their direction how to change spark plug if you don't follow you end strip thread in head for spark plug.
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Old July 19th, 2009, 08:44 PM   #3
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My parents bought the truck brand new in 03, and up until i changed the oil every 3,000 with 5w20 Mobil 1 full synthetic and the M1 filters.

Thanks for the response MIlwaukee
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Old July 19th, 2009, 11:36 PM   #4
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Spark plugs are a big thing. Make sure you use antiseize on them when you do them. Brake clean around the plugs and blow them out with air before you pull the plugs. 3rd cylnder bak on the pass side will get dripped on by the water that runs down the coolant hose from a leaky hood seal. All of them do it at some time. If you start to get a miss it is most likly one of your COP and it takes 100 miss fires in one key cycle to trigger a check engine light on that style of truck.. As far as oil i ran 10-40 Valvoline in mine from new till 170,000 and never had a issue. If i remember anymore i will chime in with it.
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Old July 20th, 2009, 12:53 AM   #5
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at work, the shop trucks that have them get 15-40, since thats the oil we have in bulk...most of those trucks are well over 200k, some over 300k, and very few problems.
do the basic tune up, as everyone else has already said, and just look it over to make sure there isnt anything else that needs a little attention.
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Old July 21st, 2009, 05:49 PM   #6
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why do people insisnt on giving bad advice??? USE ONLY THE OIL THE TRUCK CALLS FOR. The info is on the sticker on the left side on the radiator support and it says use ONLY 5w20. Don't be a TOOL and use anything else or you will starve your bearings and crap out the engines. If you are going to do something, do it correctly or why waste your time fixing something preventable?




Before you try and take a spark plug out, the engine must be stone cold prior to doing work on it. The reason for this is the different cooling rates of the aluminum heads and the steel spark plugs, you will strip the threads and make a mess out of your heads, so dont even move it before taking the plugs out. You will need to remove the plastic intake and tubing to get access. A 6" extension and a swivel will come in handy. Disconnecting the fuel rail from the injectors will make removing the COPs a lot easier. Antiseize the plug threads and use dielectric grease inside the COPs. Do not worry about replacing the COPs until you have too, unless you have money to blow. A Haynes manual does a pretty good job giving you a step by step as well.
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Old July 21st, 2009, 06:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never_Evil View Post
why do people insisnt on giving bad advice??? USE ONLY THE OIL THE TRUCK CALLS FOR. The info is on the sticker on the left side on the radiator support and it says use ONLY 5w20. Don't be a TOOL and use anything else or you will starve your bearings and crap out the engines. If you are going to do something, do it correctly or why waste your time fixing something preventable?




I dont see anyone telling him to use anything else, just people stating their experience...which practical experience shows that just using a different grade of oil does not guarantee death to the engine. I can show you a fleet of30-40 trucks with the 5.4, most of which have had 15-40 their entire life, and the fleet has had very few engine failures, while all of the trucks are ran for 200-300k miles of hard use (abuse), overloaded, lots of start up/shutdown...either way, its his choice what he wants to run for oil, so why would you take it so seriously...oh, I must have forgotten how serious the business of teh internetz is...
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Old July 21st, 2009, 08:36 PM   #8
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I've always changed it with 5w20 synthetic. I don't plan on changing that.

But thanks for the advice all! Especially with the spark plugs. I have heard so many horror stories tot he point it is almost worth taking it to the stealership. But i need to buy books and pay for my apartment. Luckily i have two friends whom have changed their plugs on the same truck, so with a few beers i think we will be able to get it done
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:10 PM   #9
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That why I keep tell use 5w20 or they be spun bearing or kill cam phaser that make tick noise.

if it burn lot oil then upgrade to 5w30 then stay until it really worn out then rebuilt it.

10w40 oil would cause mpg decrease almost 2 mpg and they don't lubrication great in winter. Think like ice cream it hard but when it warm it moving.

Think cold THICK oil 10w40 or 20w50 in winter that don't moving like thin oil in DOHC engine= destroy FAST result cost $5000 for new engine at dealership.


like 1 thread about grand marquis that I ask what oil it been use 10w40 I know it already bad why if I get then try put thin oil then later engine have bad bearing from thick oil.


I apart 1 5.4L to find why it threw rod. all bearings were toast. Found that owner use 10w40 dino with fram oil filter. To say bearing look really bad it chew.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 10:26 PM   #10
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huh?
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Old August 4th, 2009, 01:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yota Bill View Post
I dont see anyone telling him to use anything else, just people stating their experience...which practical experience shows that just using a different grade of oil does not guarantee death to the engine. I can show you a fleet of30-40 trucks with the 5.4, most of which have had 15-40 their entire life, and the fleet has had very few engine failures, while all of the trucks are ran for 200-300k miles of hard use (abuse), overloaded, lots of start up/shutdown...either way, its his choice what he wants to run for oil, so why would you take it so seriously...oh, I must have forgotten how serious the business of teh internetz is...
Just because people use quarter sticks of dynamite to go fishing, doesn't mean their "Practical experience" is a guideline to follow. Sorry for trying to eliminate crap info, continue on pissing in your gas tanks to get better milage... D************E!
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