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Old July 19th, 2009, 11:30 AM   #1
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Default Chrysler SB Engine ID

Any of you Mopar gearheads tell me a quick way to ID a Chrysler SB? I picked up a 1973 Charger that has a new engine dropped in. Previous owner not sure if it is a 340 or 360. How can I tell?
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Old July 19th, 2009, 11:53 AM   #2
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Look on the front of the block just below the driver's side head. There should be a stamped number there which will include the displacement.

http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/mopar/mopar%20casting%20numbers/castingnumbers4.html
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Old July 20th, 2009, 08:19 AM   #3
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Any other way? The PS pump is right in front of that location. I guess worst case I can look at it when I pull the engine out to repaint.
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Old July 20th, 2009, 08:39 AM   #4
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same site
http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/mopar/mopar%20casting%20numbers/castingnumbers.html
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Old July 24th, 2009, 10:03 AM   #5
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Assume that it is a 360. If the previous owner had paid for a 340...he would most certainly remember...or it is a 318 because he tried to forget!

Run the numbers as mentioned above.
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Old July 24th, 2009, 10:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nosights View Post
Assume that it is a 360. If the previous owner had paid for a 340...he would most certainly remember...or it is a 318 because he tried to forget!

Run the numbers as mentioned above.

WOW ... you are definitely not a Mopar guy! I cannot assume it is a 360 and treat it as such and vice versa. If it is a 10.5:1 340, I need to treat the fuel, carb cfm, etc. TOTALLY different!

The previous owner did not do the swap ... that is the problem. He bought it as-is and never asked questions other than what he recalled the 2nd owner told him.

I want to build it properly based on the engine installed, so I need to know for sure ... NO ASSUMPTIONS!

... because if it is a forged crank 340 ... this beatch is getting the juice!

BTW ... I tried to look at the numbers under the driver head and the rust has done too much damage to be recognizeable.
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Old July 24th, 2009, 09:34 PM   #7
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WOW ... you are definitely not a Mopar guy! I cannot assume it is a 360 and treat it as such and vice versa. If it is a 10.5:1 340, I need to treat the fuel, carb cfm, etc. TOTALLY different!

The previous owner did not do the swap ... that is the problem. He bought it as-is and never asked questions other than what he recalled the 2nd owner told him.

I want to build it properly based on the engine installed, so I need to know for sure ... NO ASSUMPTIONS!

... because if it is a forged crank 340 ... this beatch is getting the juice!

BTW ... I tried to look at the numbers under the driver head and the rust has done too much damage to be recognizeable.
I am a MOPAR guy and I take my engines seriously...(rant deleated as I got a bit carried away). I was really only kidding, read it again! Check the flywheel/TC for weights, this tells some of the story. Start pulling it apart untill you can ID it! If you are the MOPAR guy you apparently claim to be...(sorry, I started the rant again...my appologies).

Leaving now to go look in the mirror and tell my self "you are a good MOPAR guy and people like you!"...
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Old July 26th, 2009, 08:29 PM   #8
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I did some digging tonight and what a Frankenstein engine!

- Block is a 318 (casting 2536030)
- Heads are 360 (casting 4027596)
- Early style water pump that is blocking my late style timing marks

So I have some more work to do before I get this running right. First is later water pump and correct radiator hoses so I can get it timed!

Next is headers and throwing out that carb for a 750 that I will take somewhere to get tuned for me!
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Old August 5th, 2009, 02:18 PM   #9
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Score you got the orig. engine, Now it is worth a million bucks That was a 318 car orig. & bet it is orig. Was grannys car till the guy turned it into FrankenMopar

It looked like a 360 with the 1" crank pulley. I will get the carb from ya. & I ahve found your alt. all boxed up ready to go.


Needs Headers Tuned equal length, MSD, Slap stick, 3.91 gears. GTG...
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Old August 5th, 2009, 05:14 PM   #10
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I have no idea if it is the original engine. I have to pull the engine to find the date codes. From the quality of work that has been done on the engine in it, I am scared as hell to even drive it without tearing the bottom end down and re-checking everything myself. When someone bottoms out bolts on a timing cover and intake manifold that don't seat properly and leaves them that way, God only knows what the inside looks like!

You will not get any carb from me and you can keep your alternator. I replaced all the charging components and it works now.

And yes, it needs headers, 3.73's, electronic distributor, the correct late-model water pump, correct radiator hoses, correct alternator brackets, correct P/S brackets, engine bolt kit, new air cleaner, floor shifter and then the heads milled to get a compression ratio that won't burn kerosene and then ... maybe then I am GTG...
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