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Old June 20th, 2009, 02:01 PM   #1
BowtieWrangler
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Custom Driveshafts

Is there anywhere in the detroit area to get driveshafts cut down, lengthened or custom built?
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Old June 20th, 2009, 02:09 PM   #2
1988JeepXj
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Drives & Shafts Specialties Inc‎
27559 Schoolcraft Road, Livonia, MI‎ - (734) 522-9440‎

Are you actually IN detroit or just nearby?
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Old June 20th, 2009, 03:02 PM   #3
redline8300
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Joint Clutch and Gear. They are I think in Romulus just north of 94 east of 275.
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Old June 20th, 2009, 11:19 PM   #4
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do it yourself
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Old June 20th, 2009, 11:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Joint Clutch and Gear. They are I think in Romulus just north of 94 east of 275.
YEs !
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do it yourself
Trail rig YES Daily Driver NO
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Old June 21st, 2009, 02:18 AM   #6
BowtieWrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988JeepXj View Post
Drives & Shafts Specialties Inc‎
27559 Schoolcraft Road, Livonia, MI‎ - (734) 522-9440‎

Are you actually IN detroit or just nearby?
Nearby south of detroit


and to the do it myself i will if i have to but id rather have someone do it that can balance it, it is mainly a trail rig but i do enjoy takin it out for a cruise every now and then
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Old June 21st, 2009, 09:38 AM   #7
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YEs !


Trail rig YES Daily Driver NO
I drive mine around the streets....no issues? Just take it in and have it balanced.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 09:50 AM   #8
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I drive mine around the streets....no issues? Just take it in and have it balanced.
x2. never needed to have balanced
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Old June 21st, 2009, 10:43 PM   #9
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x2. never needed to have balanced
I have not either... just don't go above 80mph and your fine

Or you can do the trans fluid trick.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 12:04 AM   #10
Yota Bill
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I've built them for street vehicles, only had one guy saying it was vibrating (I had already told him before hand he should take them in to get balanced)...turned out he had other problems, and the shafts were fine...

I use a set of v-blocks and a dial indicator and get the runout as close to zero as possible, though I have never gotten one quite to zero...
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 12:09 AM   #11
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Dynotech Engineering in Troy.

www.dynotechengineering.com
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 12:34 AM   #12
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I have not either... just don't go above 80mph and your fine

Or you can do the trans fluid trick.

i can do 75mph with my homebuilt shaft without feeling any vibes. just gotta take your time with the tape measure and if you want to be real anal mount it up and use a dial indicator to check the read out on it. have a uniform weld will helps also/maybe grinding it smooth.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 12:45 AM   #13
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I can hold 75 and not feel it...but past 80 you can. I mounted it, tacked it, spun it and taped it straight, than welded it. I actually have to do it again tomorrow as I have the indexing wrong
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 10:54 AM   #14
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i can do 75mph with my home built shaft without feeling any vibes. just gotta take your time with the tape measure and if you want to be real anal mount it up and use a dial indicator to check the read out on it. have a uniform weld will helps also/maybe grinding it smooth.

X50 as ever since I have learned to make my own in my teenage years I have always had home built shafts back in the day I had them rebalanced now if its a bogger i just weld it and if its a DD i put a little trans fluid in it
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 12:19 PM   #15
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I'm digging the trans fluid idea, this is why I read
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Old July 4th, 2009, 12:49 AM   #16
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trans fluid for the win for sure! I put 1/2 qt. in mine... its out of balance a bit, but with the trans fluid you would never know! No vibes at all going down the road.
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Old July 4th, 2009, 01:11 AM   #17
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B&G Truck in Warren on 9 Mile
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Old July 15th, 2009, 06:17 PM   #18
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what exactly does the trans fluid do?
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Old July 15th, 2009, 08:11 PM   #19
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balances the drive shaft.
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Old July 16th, 2009, 02:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yota Bill View Post
I've built them for street vehicles, only had one guy saying it was vibrating (I had already told him before hand he should take them in to get balanced)...turned out he had other problems, and the shafts were fine...

I use a set of v-blocks and a dial indicator and get the runout as close to zero as possible, though I have never gotten one quite to zero...
After dialing it in and welding it the only way to get the shaft to zero is to dial it again after welding it and heating it red hot it the high spots and colling it with a wet rag. This will shrink it on that side and bring it to zero. This is the way I was taught to do it when I worked at Toledo Driveline/Certified Powertrain/Fleet Trucks building drive shafts.
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