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Old June 6th, 2009, 03:14 PM   #1
unclebeaner
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91 buick century

3.3 auto fuel pressure in check, firing on all cyl, but i cannot depress gas without it sputtering and trying to die car will one do about 15 mph. 1/4 of fuel. about 88,000 on the car. will not free rev. fuel pressure is between 30 and 40 psi. any ideas?
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Old June 6th, 2009, 03:35 PM   #2
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codes 13 and 44
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Old June 6th, 2009, 04:34 PM   #3
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i doubt a faulty O2 sensor would do that, but its a good place to start, Maybe bad wiring?

I'd check for a bad vacuum leak, possibly intake.
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Old June 6th, 2009, 07:10 PM   #4
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does it have the 3 coil packs? check those. i just had a 96 camaro with same problem. wouldn't free rev and had no power above 2000 rpm. 1 plug wire was shorted out and all 3 coil packs were on there way out. i replaced plugs wires and 3 coil packs and it runs great now.
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Old June 6th, 2009, 10:43 PM   #5
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not sure if that car has one, but i think it does...i would check the cam sensor...
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Old June 7th, 2009, 07:56 PM   #6
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no cam sensor i believe its apart of the ignition module. is there a way to test those packs? cant seem to find a restance value on line. thanks
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Old June 7th, 2009, 08:26 PM   #7
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Put your hand by the tailpipe and see if the "flow" feels weak. Also, if the car seems abnormally quiet, you could have a plugged catalytic converter.
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Old June 7th, 2009, 08:28 PM   #8
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was thinking that my flow seems fine im leaning more toward electrical problem i guess she was driving car the it started doing this. was fine before
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Old June 7th, 2009, 09:38 PM   #9
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coil packs can't be tested only the ignition control module can be tested. when i was trying to fix my friends camaro i pulled the wires off one by one to see if the coil would arc between the coil pack and ground. one terminal on each coil wasn't arcing thats why i replaced all 3. they were only 25 a piece so 75 bucks wasn't that bad.
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Old June 7th, 2009, 10:02 PM   #10
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they do have spark as ive indicated in first post but im wondering if they are wout of spec i cant remember i think it was 8,000 ohms between posts and make sure no continutity between posts and common ground but i cant remember
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Old June 7th, 2009, 10:24 PM   #11
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it uses a dual sensor behind the harmonic balancer, one part of the senosr is the crank sensor, the other part takes the place of the cam sensor (2 exciter rings)

these systems often have ignition module failure, but be careful since there were multiple versions of this system, which have physically interchangable parts, that will not work if put on the wrong version...most parts stores can test these modules, but have them test it repaetedly 4-5 times....also inspect it closely when you take it off for any signs of cracking, overheating, etc...

Kodiak, that is a waste spark system, so your test of pulling one wire off at a time and watching to see if the terminal arcs to ground is inconclusive at best, not to mention harmful to the coil pack (which can be easily tested with an ohmeter)
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Old June 7th, 2009, 10:37 PM   #12
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ohm reading for crank sensor? that should toss a code
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Old June 7th, 2009, 11:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unclebeaner View Post
ohm reading for crank sensor? that should toss a code
It's OBD1, no guarantees, it might care since you have other codes.
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Old June 7th, 2009, 11:14 PM   #14
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true
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Old June 8th, 2009, 01:54 PM   #15
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seems to be firing on all six. had some new coil pack so it tossed them for the hell of it. thinking tps or map.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:45 PM   #16
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have you checked to make sure there are no vacuum leaks, or any leaks that could allow air into the engine?
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Old June 9th, 2009, 08:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Kodiak, that is a waste spark system, so your test of pulling one wire off at a time and watching to see if the terminal arcs to ground is inconclusive at best, not to mention harmful to the coil pack (which can be easily tested with an ohmeter)
i did this as per chilton

Ignition Coils

1.

Remove the ignition coil(s).
2.

Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the primary terminals on the underside of the coil. The resistance should be 0.50-0.90 ohms.
3.

Check the resistance between the secondary terminals. It should be 5000-10,000 ohms.
4.

If the coil failed either test, replace the coil.

after the coils passed the test i replaced plugs and wires because the homemade MSD wires were bad I.E. terminals were very poorly connected. and after the plugs and wires it still would have bad misfire under load.
so explain why the resistance test would pass but the coil would still cause a misfire under load??
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Old June 9th, 2009, 11:08 AM   #18
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have you checked to make sure there are no vacuum leaks, or any leaks that could allow air into the engine?
yes sir none
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Old June 9th, 2009, 11:42 PM   #19
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i did this as per chilton

Ignition Coils

1.

Remove the ignition coil(s).
2.

Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the primary terminals on the underside of the coil. The resistance should be 0.50-0.90 ohms.
3.

Check the resistance between the secondary terminals. It should be 5000-10,000 ohms.
4.

If the coil failed either test, replace the coil.

after the coils passed the test i replaced plugs and wires because the homemade MSD wires were bad I.E. terminals were very poorly connected. and after the plugs and wires it still would have bad misfire under load.
so explain why the resistance test would pass but the coil would still cause a misfire under load??

because the ohm test does not duplicate the heat that the engine puts on the coils and module...
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Old June 10th, 2009, 11:13 AM   #20
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because the ohm test does not duplicate the heat that the engine puts on the coils and module...
xx2
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