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Old June 6th, 2009, 07:19 AM   #1
Hoss Blazer
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So i have a 1977 K-5 blazer w/ a dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear and 35" boggers. Last night i had to slam on the brakes and it ducked to the passanger side and then didn't really want to stop very well. I know bigger the tires the harder it is to stop. So i was thinking that the caliper was hanging up. The dana 60 is out of a 1986, so it's the last year for the slide pin. When i first got the front axle i had to replace the drivers side caliper because the bleader was broke. The rear where done when i put the front axle in, turned the drums and eveything else was new. Should i replace the other old claliper or try bleeding them again because there might be air in the lines still? Just wondering if theres anything i can do to get it to stop alittle better, maybe bigger master, booster or try to find dual pistons? Or am i SOL.


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Old June 6th, 2009, 08:51 PM   #2
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Anyone have any ideas?
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Old June 6th, 2009, 09:13 PM   #3
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Try bleeding the lines again, but i'd say that the caliper is hanging up. 35's aren't that much bigger than stock 31's, they shouldn't make that much of a difference.
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Old June 6th, 2009, 09:18 PM   #4
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If you replaced the driver side caliper and it is pulling towards the passenger side that means the new caliper is not clamping as hard as it should, try bleeding. Was both front rotors replaced at the same time? If you have one rotor thicker than the other you can experience pull to one side. As far as better performance pads make a huge difference, I have found that the cheap organic pads offer better bite and are less abrasive on rotors but the trade off is after repeated stops you will have a lot more brake fade and they also create a lot more dust and wear real fast. I would recommend Satisfied semi metallic, that's what I am running on my Suburban, they are not chewing up the rotor as other brands do, they haul my 7300lb rig down pretty good and they seem to be out lasting every other brand I have used.
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Old June 7th, 2009, 09:47 AM   #5
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If you replaced the driver side caliper and it is pulling towards the passenger side that means the new caliper is not clamping as hard as it should, try bleeding. Was both front rotors replaced at the same time? If you have one rotor thicker than the other you can experience pull to one side. As far as better performance pads make a huge difference, I have found that the cheap organic pads offer better bite and are less abrasive on rotors but the trade off is after repeated stops you will have a lot more brake fade and they also create a lot more dust and wear real fast. I would recommend Satisfied semi metallic, that's what I am running on my Suburban, they are not chewing up the rotor as other brands do, they haul my 7300lb rig down pretty good and they seem to be out lasting every other brand I have used.
I didn't put new pads and rotors on it because they where in great shape when i bought it so i just ran them. I might pull them off and turn the rotors. But i was thinking the same thing about bleeding them again because i replaced the wheel cylinders in the rear also. Satisfied semi metallic, is that the brand name?
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Old June 8th, 2009, 08:16 AM   #6
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Gonna try the machine that we have @ work that sucks the air of the the lines then bleed it this week some time see if that helps at all to. Any other ideas that i could try?
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Old June 8th, 2009, 11:01 AM   #7
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Gonna try the machine that we have @ work that sucks the air of the the lines then bleed it this week some time see if that helps at all to. Any other ideas that i could try?
The better bleeders force fluid through the caliper up through the line and the air will escape through the master cyl. And yes Satisfied semi metalic pads. If you turn the rotors use new pads or if you replace pads turn your rotors, a lot of people will just replace pads and not realize that you need to Bed-in new pads to the rotors. All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. Different pad manufactures have different techniques for this procedure. Most of the time though it is like 3 complete stops from 20mph and 3 more from 35mph and then 3 more from 55mph or some other variation...this is important or you can glaze your pads, you could have one pad that is glazed right now and that would cause your problem. After bleeding also make sure you seat them properly here is instructions http://www.ehow.com/how_2295732_seat-brake-pads.html

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Old June 9th, 2009, 06:18 AM   #8
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Gonna go and get the blazer after work today and try to bleed them tomorrow. Hopefully this works or the next step is to tair into them friday after work.

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The better bleeders force fluid through the caliper up through the line and the air will escape through the master cyl. And yes Satisfied semi metalic pads. If you turn the rotors use new pads or if you replace pads turn your rotors, a lot of people will just replace pads and not realize that you need to Bed-in new pads to the rotors. All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. Different pad manufactures have different techniques for this procedure. Most of the time though it is like 3 complete stops from 20mph and 3 more from 35mph and then 3 more from 55mph or some other variation...this is important or you can glaze your pads, you could have one pad that is glazed right now and that would cause your problem. After bleeding also make sure you seat them properly here is instructions http://www.ehow.com/how_2295732_seat-brake-pads.html
Where do i get those pads? All we have around here is Carquest and Napa!

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Old June 9th, 2009, 06:42 AM   #9
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how long has it been since you did the work from when the pull started?

when you replaced the caliper did you pull the pads off? or just leave them in the bracket?

I would pull the caliper and look at the pads and look at whare they slideon the bracket.
remove all rust and gunk and make sure the pads slide freely on both sides. then lube them up

I'm willing to bet that that's your problem
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Old June 9th, 2009, 09:47 AM   #10
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Well last year i broke a inner and outer axle shaft on my 44 and then bought the 60 out of a truck that had been sitting for a while the guy said. When i went to check eveything over the bleeder broke on the one so i just replaced the hole caliper. Then we put it in the blazer. Then when we went to bleed it and rear wheel cylinders went out. So we did the rear brakes. Then when that was done we bleed the brakes and i went to take it around the block and BOOM!! Coolant out the exhaust. So we pulled the engine and bent a rod. It was sitting all winter and got it running again about a month ago. Brakes were always alittle weak but last week when i slammed on them that happened.

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Old June 9th, 2009, 05:41 PM   #11
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yeah i bet you have a stuck pad or the caliper isnt sliding like it needs to.

i would do what i sugjested... mainly because its dirt cheap, and doesnt take very long.
and if you find everything to be moving ok then take it from there.
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Old June 9th, 2009, 06:39 PM   #12
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I have one more thing for you to check. most guys don't know how importent this is. Rotor slop. if your hubs are not tweeked to perfection the slop in the wheel bearings and rotor will "pry open" the caliper. then when you hit the brake the brake grabs one side and not the other because the caliper is fighting a wedged set of pads and it can't apply full force on the face of the rotor.
my suggestion is to jack up the front one wheel at a time and grab the tire top & bottom, see how much "slop" it has in the hub with the tire on. it better be next to nothing. plus you can check your ball joints while your there. if you find the hub sloppy then adjust the lock nuts in the hub till the wheel slop just goes away. it should fix the brake problem.
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Old June 9th, 2009, 10:20 PM   #13
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Ya i didn't play w/ anything else just replaced the caliper. It's a king pin axle also. It's kinda a pain in the butt to take the caliper back off to because its the last year for the shim style or what ever they call it.
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Old June 9th, 2009, 11:05 PM   #14
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Where do i get those pads? All we have around here is Carquest and Napa!
I dont remember where I got mine...it was online but I dont remember the site. Might have been JEGS I get a lot of stuff from there but I am not 100% sure. I found the box they came in and they are the pro classics. I think you can order right from their site? http://www.satisfiedbrakes.com/brakes/index.html

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Old June 10th, 2009, 05:44 PM   #15
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Well we bleed the brakes today and nothing happened so we looked @ the rears and the guy that helped me last year didn't adjust them what so ever, so i adjusted them and now it stops like a champ again. Still gonna pull the tires off the front and take a look @ them this weekend!
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