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Old May 26th, 2009, 02:16 PM   #1
deerebowtie
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Old May 26th, 2009, 05:41 PM   #2
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depends. they could be from a dump truck and be a tall deck low compression boat anchor, OR it could be a late 60's HI po engine. can you get casting numbers from both engines?
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Old May 26th, 2009, 07:14 PM   #3
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454
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Old May 26th, 2009, 07:18 PM   #4
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If you can 100% verify that the one 454 is indeed a LS6 jump on that if it still has the original heads.
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Old May 26th, 2009, 07:26 PM   #5
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If you can 100% verify that the one 454 is indeed a LS6 jump on that if it still has the original heads.
X2 GOOD BUY.
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Old May 28th, 2009, 08:26 AM   #6
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I would agree with the others. If the 454 is an LS6 motor and still has the original heads, that would be the best choice. You can make some good power with those heads. The only issue I could see is if for some reason that particular block is heavily overbored already. Me personally, if I pick something up that's used, I prefer stock bore blocks.
Depending on what heads the 427 has, it's gonna be much cheaper to purchase a flywheel than better heads.
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Old May 29th, 2009, 10:51 AM   #7
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You could go either way really if you wanted to put the time and effort in to the 427 you can make it pretty sound. With a tall deck you can get alittle more stroke out of it. Some different heads and pistons will bring the compression right up. But if your gonna just put it in and run it i'd go w/ the 454.
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Old May 30th, 2009, 11:28 PM   #8
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The 427 will be good for a light car weight as it spools up faster than 454 and creates great acceleration, 454 you get more torque and can afford a taller gear.

The diffrence in heads will make a big diff, but you can always spend a few bucks to make stock heads prime and close to aftermaket racing heads.
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Old June 1st, 2009, 09:51 AM   #9
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decided to go with stroked 454 (methanol carbed 496)
Good luck trying to find methanol and how the hell ya gonna pay for it?
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Old June 1st, 2009, 11:49 AM   #10
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Good luck trying to find methanol and how the hell ya gonna pay for it?
E85...85% methanol and 105 octane oh and it is cheaper then gas.
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Old June 1st, 2009, 01:51 PM   #11
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decided to go with stroked 454 (methanol carbed 496)
Have you bought anything yet? Just an FYI, but when I put a 502 in my car years ago I was going to stroke the 454 I had put in the prior year. By the time I purchased the rotating assembly and paid for the machine work/etc., it was pretty much a wash between doing that or purchasing a new GM 502 shortblock, so I went with the 502. That was a few years back though, so I don't know what the prices are now.
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Old June 1st, 2009, 03:26 PM   #12
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Have you bought anything yet? Just an FYI, but when I put a 502 in my car years ago I was going to stroke the 454 I had put in the prior year. By the time I purchased the rotating assembly and paid for the machine work/etc., it was pretty much a wash between doing that or purchasing a new GM 502 shortblock, so I went with the 502. That was a few years back though, so I don't know what the prices are now.
Pretty soon you will be able to by any GM parts or cars for dirt cheap...the banks are gonna want their money
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Old June 2nd, 2009, 01:21 AM   #13
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M85 and E85 are different, and have different amounts of energy. That aside, I picked up a running 454 for 100$, machine work and rotating assembly run around 1300$ what can top that?
Yep...I thought E85 was 85% Methanol but it is Ethanol. Why do you want to run Methanol anyway? I was looking to get some to make a batch of bio diesel for my kerosene heater this winter and found it was really hard to find and when I did find it, it was expensive.

What are the pros and cons? If you are just looking to add a little more HP why not just spray it with say a 150 or 200 shot of nos and run pump gas? Do you think Methanol will give you more than 200hp over pump gas?

Not trying to bust your balls, I am just trying to learn what the advantages of running it would be other then burning cleaner and maybe a few extra ponies.
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Old June 2nd, 2009, 06:57 AM   #14
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M85 and E85 are different, and have different amounts of energy. That aside, I picked up a running 454 for 100$, machine work and rotating assembly run around 1300$ what can top that?
Possibly nothing, but keep in mind you'll be spending more than $1,300. You still need a camshaft, flywheel, balancer, timing chain, oil pump, etc. I'm sure you "could" reuse some of this, but if you're building a performance engine, it would seem senseless to do so.
What brand rotating assembly are you getting that is cheap enough to put the price tag $1,300 including the machine work?
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Old June 2nd, 2009, 10:02 AM   #15
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take the basic rotating assembly on summit and froogle.com shop for the parts you want. It digs through google to find the cheapest prices on stuff. I know the machinist and thats what he said he would charge to do his work, assembly will be completed by a friend.

the advantage of running methanol or ethanol are lower running temps (methanol only gives off 1/8 the heat of gas), and low to mid range torque will be boosted up considerably by raised compression. running 12:1 with the factory heads with some mild work should pull out ~650hp+ at the flywheel. besides that, both methanol and ethanol are cheaper than gas. current methanol/ethanol prices out of GR are around 2.19 a gallon...where as 112 race gas is 6.59$
Where can you buy methanol in GR? I still want to make Bio diesel for my heater.
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Old June 2nd, 2009, 12:25 PM   #16
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Van Manen Oil & Propane
0-305 Lake Michigan Drive
Grand Rapids, MI 49544
(616) 453-6344

or check out

http://www.sunocoinc.com/Site/Consum...s/Michigan.htm

to find a race fuel dealer thats closer.
Thanks...do you know if they only sell in bulk or can I buy like 5 gallons at a time? That was my biggest issue trying to find methanol is everyone only sold it in 55gallon drums.
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Old June 3rd, 2009, 05:48 PM   #17
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Ok so your gonna drive from EJ down to GR and pick up a barrel then drive all the way back to EJ..... how is that cost effective?
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Old June 11th, 2009, 09:33 PM   #18
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E85...85% methanol and 105 octane oh and it is cheaper then gas.
LOL, the E stands for ETHANOL, not Methanol! Their different! I'll buy your scrap when your done...
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Old June 12th, 2009, 02:00 PM   #19
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LOL, the E stands for ETHANOL, not Methanol! Their different! I'll buy your scrap when your done...
I already caught that about 8 post ago...make sure you read the whole thread

What would be involved in converting a stock motor over to run on Methanol? $2.19 a gallon has me thinking now! How would it perform in cold temperatures in the winter? I use my truck mainly for getting to hunting/fishing spots, some wheelin and as a DD when the snow is deep.
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Old June 15th, 2009, 02:18 AM   #20
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different fuel system (methanol and ethynol eat rubber), modified carb, compression should be in the 11:1 + range, and you won't really have a heater in the winter...Methanol produces only 1/8 the heat of gasoline. I'm not sure about cold starts, I'm still collecting parts to build my motor.

Got my block looked over and it has a few small cracks...but I only paid 50$ not bad for a forged crank,dimple rods, and a bunch of accessories
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