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Old March 25th, 2010, 09:30 AM   #61
Daddy Dan
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If it just started when you put the headers on, it might be a tiny exhaust leak. They can sometimes sound just like a lifter. Only takes a really small crack in the seal.
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Old March 25th, 2010, 05:45 PM   #62
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Well The exhaust is leaking from both header collectors into the y pipe. Maybe I need to impact them on? or maybe there is a gasket that I can use?

Any ideas?
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Old March 25th, 2010, 06:00 PM   #63
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Don't over tighten them, but you should be able to snug them up enough with just a 3/8 ratchet. With it all being new, it might shift around a little until its all settled in. So I'd just try tightening them up again.

Thats my thoughts.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 10:49 AM   #64
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Well I got the old front bumper on the other day.
Had to do some trimming to make it fit.





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Old April 5th, 2010, 06:29 PM   #65
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engine is idling very high. Any ideas?
I cannot find any vacuume leaks and I checked the timing and it is about 10 degrees with the spout out.

1k at idle seems kinda high to me, and that is after it comes down from 1300+ from startup

Ideas anyone?
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Old April 6th, 2010, 11:08 AM   #66
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Yeah, check to make sure the throttle is actually shutting all the way. I've seen a lot of these where one of the return springs breaks and it will not quite return all the way to closed. If thats fine, check the IAC.
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Old April 6th, 2010, 08:39 PM   #67
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well I guess the idle problem goes to the back burner. Took er out for another test drive and damn near got bucked outta my seat as the trans tried to shift into 2nd.

Got all sorts of codes, so I had to reset and I kept getting one. Bad TRPS. Well I pulled it off.... in pieces.



new one will be here tomorrow, guess I'll see what happens.
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Old April 7th, 2010, 05:09 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddy Dan View Post
Yeah, check to make sure the throttle is actually shutting all the way. I've seen a lot of these where one of the return springs breaks and it will not quite return all the way to closed. If thats fine, check the IAC.
X's 2 if it still happens after replacing, The IAC (idle air control sensor) is more then likely bad. pretty common issue especially with the older fords.
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Old April 29th, 2010, 10:27 PM   #69
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trans is still not shifting properly and it still is reporting the sensor. getting disheartened..
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Old April 29th, 2010, 11:27 PM   #70
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I am sure it wiring or something.

Been there with my F250.


Great process you did. If you were me it would be 2-4 years to complete.

Where you get that front bumper? I been hunt and they are disappear so fast.
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Old September 14th, 2010, 11:13 PM   #71
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got a new computer and it is driving!
Needs front end alignment.
Pulled the IAC and the idle dropped right down.
tryin to wrap it up. It has been a long summer
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Old September 14th, 2010, 11:49 PM   #72
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When you solid swap it with that Sterling/60 hybrid I'd be interested in those radius arms...
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Old September 15th, 2010, 06:26 PM   #73
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replaced the IAC today and no diffirence!
I am totally pissed. $60 out the door and I am still having the same problem.
I wonder why it is idling so high when the damm thing is plugged in. It is only about 600-650 when I disconnect it. it runs at about 1400 rpms when I first start it, then about a miniute later it drops to 1100-1000, but never below 1000.

After I drive around for awhile, and put it in park, the lowest it will drop is 900.
It should be lower, I know it.

It is reading 12v at the connector, is that the problem?
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Old September 16th, 2010, 11:06 AM   #74
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Quote:
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It is reading 12v at the connector, is that the problem?

I would let someone else chime in, but no I don't think that is the problem.

It should receive 12 volts in to the IAC, and send a much smaller and variable signal back to the ECM.
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Old September 16th, 2010, 07:23 PM   #75
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hmmm, I plugged in the ol tweecer today and forced the thing to idle at 700, and it did. But after awhile it increased to 900 again. dunno why.
getting sick of messin with it.
I'd be interested in sellin the arms, but I'd have to get some money out of them. I mean they are new, and I was gonna make em work with the straight axle. I could build my own new ones but that would require funding, and the beer fund is suffering as it is.
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Old September 17th, 2010, 10:25 AM   #76
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engine coolant temp sensor or intake air temp sensor. Either one can be screwed up but it will still run. If it doesn't think the engine ever gets up to temp it will keep the idle high. If the IAT/ACT is bad, it may be pulsing and causing it to idle high.

http://www.broncoii.org/techpages/ee...st:%20%2810%29

They take the same sensors so the chart still applies.
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Old September 24th, 2010, 10:44 PM   #77
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I'm gonna have to move this thing to a diffirent section with all the problems I am having.

I think the idle is fixed. It runs up to about 1400 when I first start it up. After I drive it around and it gets warmed up, the idle drops to around 700 or less.

So to hell with that for now. On to bigger fish.

Now with and no more check engine lights, I filled up the tank and have been driving it around a bit.

Put a little over 100 miles on the rear tank. Filled it up again to calculate the mileage. 10mpg
Wth. I mean I expected a little drop, but this is crazy. Before I parked it, it had an engine with 264k on it, with a completly stock exhaust. 3.55 gears and 31" tires. I was getting around 14 mpg.

Now I have changed the rear axle to 4.10, but it is a sterling and not a 8.8. It has a new engine, and there is no catalytic converter at the moment. It also has headers and a 3" exhaust. ...With hardly any to no back pressure, maybe that is why the idle is so hhigh at startup, but anyway...
The tire change from 31" to 35" is significant, but the gear change should get me closer to stock ratio with 4.10s than the 31"s were @ 3.55.

I think a 4mpg loss is rediculous. Any ideas on fixing this? I mean I could remove the egr again, but that made things worse last time. I do want to drive this truck. It is not a trail truck only, otherwise I would have put 46" tires on it.

one final note, i did put a computer on it from a 93 since my computer is fried, any chance that played a role?
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 08:20 PM   #78
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In an effort to be able to go wheeling I decided to put together a front hitch yesterday. I was going to buy one from reese, But I decided to build one for about the same cost.
Check it out

Some strong .250 wall tubing





After some cutting and welding





I had to cut the bumper a little bit, and it sits back about 2" farther in than I would like, but oh well.



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Old October 2nd, 2010, 09:48 PM   #79
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Looks nice.
Now pull the stinger out of the receiver tube.
Hitch balls are NEVER used as a tow point.
They are not rated for the forces experienced during an extraction and come off like cannon balls. They have killed wheelers in the past.

I have a set up you can use for the trail ride, or just attach the looped end of the strap directly to the pin that holds the stinger in the receiver. The pin can bend under severe pulls, but it's a LOT safer than a ball flying at someone.

See you in the morning!

Last edited by Trail_Fanatic; October 2nd, 2010 at 10:45 PM.
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 10:19 PM   #80
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Looking Good! If I can ever get another DD I want to build up my truck, its the same as what you have, and I am also glad to see I wont be the only fullsize ext cab on the trails Sunday lol
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