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Old May 23rd, 2006, 04:52 PM   #1
jeepfreak81
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Default 22R into a jeep

What would be involved if I can get everything from engine to t-case?

I am thinking of being a total bastard and puttin this into my CJ2A as I have a line on a full running drivetrain for cheap.
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 05:24 PM   #2
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It's a direct bolt in.
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 06:34 PM   #3
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why? Its heavy, doesn't make crap for power and isn't even fuel injected.

I would suggest finding an alluminum motor if you're going to go through all the work of making brackets, crossmembers, driveshafts, etc...
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 06:36 PM   #4
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Into a flattie, you want to be looking for an early trans (up to 1983)...

I'll be doing this to my flatfender whenever I build it(lord knows when that'll happen..)


Best trans is the 1983 L52.... I have one, you can't have it :-)
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 06:38 PM   #5
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A 22R on propane would be nice....(see bones complaint #1)

Its 100+ lbs lighter than the stock boat anchor motor (complaint #2)

Woudl be plenty of power in such a light vehicle, makes nice low end torque (complaint #3)
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 06:39 PM   #6
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Could consider looking for a Sidekick/tracker driveline... would also be nice, and would be cheaper.

Either would be best to switch to a centered rear axle..
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 08:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar
Could consider looking for a Sidekick/tracker driveline... would also be nice, and would be cheaper.

Either would be best to switch to a centered rear axle..

I was looking into tracker/zuk but I found the complete 22r driveline running in a mudder that has 38's right now for $125, he is only pulling it to go bigger... My buddy can help me fab all the other stuff as I think he secretly wants to help me piss off some of the jeep community I have driveshafts i can shorten/lengthen for it. Keep in mind this will see VERY mild wheeling to none. I simply plan to paint it up nice, MAYBE spring it over and drive it for the around town stuff
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 09:02 PM   #8
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Propane would be a cheap conversion, and make it different :)
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 11:13 PM   #9
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Somewhat popular for 22Rs, really.

With an earlier 22R, you could run a 20R head, which I believe make a little more power.

There are 22R propane powered forklifts that you strip for parts if you can find them.

Probably not worth it on a non wheeling vehicle..



If you go this route, I've got a 4-1 header, and a weber 38 carb wtih manifold adapter for cheap... going on ebay sometime, when I get around to pulling them from the blown 22R in my driveway..
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 11:20 PM   #10
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That just ain't right....
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 11:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak81
I was looking into tracker/zuk but I found the complete 22r driveline running in a mudder that has 38's right now for $125, he is only pulling it to go bigger... My buddy can help me fab all the other stuff as I think he secretly wants to help me piss off some of the jeep community I have driveshafts i can shorten/lengthen for it. Keep in mind this will see VERY mild wheeling to none. I simply plan to paint it up nice, MAYBE spring it over and drive it for the around town stuff
too late.. 22re is already sitting in my TJ :P
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Old May 23rd, 2006, 11:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyevil
It's a direct bolt in.
oh and I know about engine swaps.... radiator, shafts blah blah blah... went through that on the YJ. I just am not familier with the yota stuff, Much less how much room I would need to stuff a Yota drivetrain in a very short CJ2A. If I have to hammer back the firewall or modify the tub beyond taking it back to original I do not want to do it as I may decide when Im older to restore the jeep to original, but right now that doesn't fit my want/needs as restoration would be very expensive

Propane would be fun, but it would not be practical around town.
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Old May 24th, 2006, 08:58 AM   #13
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If you want me to take any pictures, let me know.

I have my truck with the 22RE mounted, another truck with no motor so you can see the mounts, and I have engines sitting on the ground for pics..


Its a good match, since the exhaust is on the drivers side.

Pretty basic angled plates off the sides of the frame. I could probably measure or let you come and measure things, if you wanted to.
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Old May 24th, 2006, 03:21 PM   #14
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The guy that is going to supposedly sell it lives around the corner from me, its in his Yota right now, I could look at that if I need to... but thank you for the offer.

What is the weight and HP in comparison to a 2.5L or even 231, I know the stock motor for the 2A was ~90 HP I havn't found any weight HP numbers of the stock motor yet in my few tries at google.

Basically I am planning on it staying stock ride height right now, But I am considering SOA on it with 34x9.5 swamper if it will fit... though I am really thinking of just doing NTB's

I want skinny tires on it. Probably staying stock like it is...

Right now the plan is to get it moving and see how it handles, and mod the height from there using the 'roller' tires for a starting point.
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Old May 24th, 2006, 03:46 PM   #15
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The numbers that I have seen over the years, was that the old L and F heads were really heavy, about 500 lbs. Don't know how much I believe that, but thats what I've read.

I want to get a scale sometime. Whenever I pull the F-head out of my CJ3a, I'll measure it, but thats a long ways down the road.

Buick V6s are light, around 390-400 lbs.

Toyota 22Rs, I think around in the vicinity of 350-400.

Stock L heads were about 60 hp and about 100 ft-lbs.

Personally, I think a 22R is an ideal motor, its more HP, more torque, a proven torquey reliable motor. Like a modern version of what should go in there.

Its pretty comparable to a Jeep 2.5 liter, IMO, having driven both. My Toyota with 36" swampers and 4.88 gears with a stick feels faster than my 97 TJ with a 2.5/auto/3.73s/31" tires.

I think you got the right idea with the skinnys, they'd look nice on there.
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