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Old February 9th, 2009, 04:45 PM   #1
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Default 9, 609, & cage build (New pics)

Well I don't know how "budget" custom axles can be, but I am doing my best to spend time instead of money on these. Also not running aftermarket housings, unit hub ends, or high pinion thirds will save some cash.

The D44's have suited me well, but I have started breaking an OEM shaft every time out, and I don't want to pull the trigger on 44 alloys. It seems cheap ones suck, and good ones are impossible to get anymore.

So out they go.

My goals for these axles:
Same or more ground clearance than my d44's (shaved)
I do not want to break parts.
6 lug

Seems pretty straightforward.

What I have so far:
Both Ford 9's
HD Dodge 60 inner c's (did not set out looking for these, but they found me... they are huge)
Chevy 60 knuckles, spindles, hubs
Chevy outer shafts
Spicer lockouts
Strange 3.250 bearing third (rear)
Aluminum Daytona pinion support (rear)
Sets of 5.43 gears
Install kits
Auburn 35 spline spool (rear)
Superior shafts (rear)
9" to Yota pinion flanges
Superior inners (ordered)

What I need:
Tube for front axle (3.25 x .3125 probably)
Front tube seals.
Strange 3.250 bearing third (front)
Aluminum Daytona pinion support (front)
ARB (front)
Pair of Spicer u-joints
All my kingpin/wheel bearings and seals
Highsteer arms (I will probably make these)
Arm Studs

I'm sure there is other stuff I am forgetting.

Still trying to decide on:
Alloy outers
Flanges

Using all my calipers and rotors from my 44's.

So far just some pics of acquired parts, and tear down...

Rear axle (65" wide), was 31 spline, 3.250 tubes, probably .1875 thick.

Naked


Tubes gouged with the plasma


Then hammered out.


About 2" of tube inside the housing.


Ended up being a 28 spline 9, with a non-banjo housing, and 3.250 x .250 wall tubes. To bad the long side was not long enough to just put c's on it


Ends cleaned up


That is all I have done on the housings so far.

Parts:
Superior shafts - yes these are 5 lug, but they are the production shafts for this housing and stronger than custom shafts would be (extra hardening.) I can fit a 6 lug pattern without being into the other holes. I will either weld them em or just hammer some plugs in them.



Auburn spool


Strange third and no-name pinion support



9" to Yota flanges...
These were $105 a piece. I knew they were machined OEM used parts, but I assumed they were going to be a little nicer. Doesn't affect the strength I guess... I was just a little disappointed. I will most likely clean these up.



That is it so far If anyone is interested I can get a spreadsheet going on costs, some of the stuff I have traded parts or labor for, but I can figure out actual value.
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Old February 9th, 2009, 05:01 PM   #2
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Hummm.....I too have been collecting parts for a 9" front and rear build...only I'd like to go upside down with portal boxes....I'll be watching your work.

Those flanges would piss me off, any chance you can call those hacks out and get an exchange?
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Old February 9th, 2009, 08:37 PM   #3
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Cool! if I didnt go the route I did, I would have made a set of these too!

one pointer if you havent already thought about it... insert the tube into the end of the housing about 4-6" and then make a plate that welds in vertically where the tube stops on the inside so you get a mini truss from each side of the tube that's inserted into the center section. This is what all of the aftermarket spidertrax, ballistic, etc. do for some added strength.

I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 04:04 AM   #4
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great to see a hybrid project

what are you thinking for the outters ?

too bad on those flanges . . . . ouch
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Old February 10th, 2009, 08:39 AM   #5
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what are you thinking for the outters ?
....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyevil View Post
HD Dodge 60 inner c's (did not set out looking for these, but they found me... they are huge)
Chevy 60 knuckles, spindles, hubs
Chevy outer shafts
Spicer lockouts
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Old February 10th, 2009, 08:55 AM   #6
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Good grief those flanges are chewed up.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 09:12 AM   #7
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i like seeing different stuff. keep this build up to date. also did a T-Rex deliver those flanges? and because he has weee little arms he had to carry them in his teeth.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 09:20 AM   #8
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...also did a T-Rex deliver those flanges? and because he has weee little arms he had to carry them in his teeth.
You guys would sh!t if you found out where the flanges came from...
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Old February 10th, 2009, 09:39 AM   #9
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You guys would sh!t if you found out where the flanges came from...
please do tell.... My dad is going to need flanges for his 60's and I need to know where to stay away from.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 09:48 AM   #10
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I will let Daryl share if he wants.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 10:01 AM   #11
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Looks cool.

I'm sure you have a good metal supplier, but if you are needing a quicky source, speedymetals has your axle tube material:

http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-3538-...teel-tube.aspx


What are you doing for alignment of everything as you weld it up?

Curious about the source of those flanges as well. I need some Dana 300 to yota flanges as well.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 10:23 AM   #12
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You guys would sh!t if you found out where the flanges came from...
if it's the same guy that does giveaways on pirate freqently and everybody fawns over, then I know who. I had a experience with him that would prevent me from spending any money with him.

I bought two 1410 yokes from the guy I'm talking about and he sent me 1310/1330 u-bolts. I called him to fix it and he sent me one set of the right bolts after laughing it off as a mistake. I called him one more time to let him know I thought he was a dope. I didn't care about the $5 bolts, but that he couldn't even fix the problem after screwing up once.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 10:32 AM   #13
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if it's the same guy that does giveaways on pirate freqently and everybody fawns over, then I know who.
I wouldn't care about the machining (since it's non critical) if these things cost $60. But at $105 (my cost) for a little more I could have had fully machined ones from.

http://customdrivelines.com/converter-flanges.htm
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Old February 10th, 2009, 10:34 AM   #14
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What are you doing for alignment of everything as you weld it up?
I have yet to decide. The right way would be an alignment bar.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 10:45 AM   #15
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I have yet to decide. The right way would be an alignment bar.
That is what I'm doing. I'm using this:

http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-1562-...d-000-001.aspx

$50 for a 5 footer, I'm sure there will be other projects that can use it in the future. Even just checking straightness of an axle.

I got aluminum which I turned to fit in place of the carrier bearings and bored out to just slip over the alignment bar. Then tuned some 1.75x0.250 DOM to slip inside the 40mm ID on the toyota knuckes and opened up the ID to slip onto the alignment rod.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 10:52 AM   #16
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ok that made no sense -

what i meant was; you mentioned the chevy outers up top, then towards the bottom said;

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyevil View Post
Still trying to decide on:
Alloy outers
Flanges
didnt know if you meant "Alloy outers" as in Alloy USA brand 35 spline or something else, Yukon, etc. prices and materials vary a bit - since its a budget project, i was just curious on the choice.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 11:12 AM   #17
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ok that made no sense -

what i meant was; you mentioned the chevy outers up top, then towards the bottom said;



didnt know if you meant "Alloy outers" as in Alloy USA brand 35 spline or something else, Yukon, etc. prices and materials vary a bit - since its a budget project, i was just curious on the choice.
Well right now it's almost impossible to get 4340 Chevy outers from anyone. At this point I am trying to decide whether or not I need/want alloy outers at all. I may just run stock ones, or maybe buy spicer 35 spline...

It's TBD based on budget and how I feel at the time I guess
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Old February 10th, 2009, 11:14 AM   #18
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WalrusZJ is 4x better then this thread.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 11:22 AM   #19
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You guys would sh!t if you found out where the flanges came from...
I know I did....I'd still try for an exchange, everybody has a bad day now and then.
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Old February 10th, 2009, 11:31 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
That is what I'm doing. I'm using this:

http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-1562-...d-000-001.aspx

$50 for a 5 footer, I'm sure there will be other projects that can use it in the future. Even just checking straightness of an axle.

I got aluminum which I turned to fit in place of the carrier bearings and bored out to just slip over the alignment bar. Then tuned some 1.75x0.250 DOM to slip inside the 40mm ID on the toyota knuckes and opened up the ID to slip onto the alignment rod.

Same here, only I have the ability to "borrow" random lengths of round stock (I like 1-7/16" 1045 TG&P) for checking straightness....it has paid off big time so far, has kept me from buying no less than (3) Dana 60 front housings that were hella-bent.

Use an alignment bar and machined pucks for welding the tubes in, and for squareing the bearing ends on the rear, the front will be easiest with an alignment rod centered on the ball-joint/king-pin bores, as long as you have a nice press fit on between the C's and the tube you don't need to go crazy with the mic since the joints absorb quite a bit of misalignment.
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