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Old February 5th, 2009, 07:59 PM   #1
dingle dave
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Default Suggestions On Tie Rod Fab

I'M WONDERING WHAT PEOPLE THINK OF WELD IN BUNGS VERSUS THREADING THE ROD ITSELF. I'M BUILDING MY OWN TIE ROD AND THE TAPS TO THREAD ARE PRICEY SO I'VE LEANED TOWARDS THE WELD IN THREAD BUNGS BUT WONDER HOW DURABLE THEY ARE. PLAN ON TRAIL DRIVING SO I DON'T NEED IT LETTING LOOSE AT SPEED.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 12:44 AM   #2
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I've had a weld in bung fail at the weld. I do think that this is related to flat towing though. If I had to do it all over again, i think I'd go with threading the rod however I think weld in bungs are a good choice too. When i reweld this bung in, I am going to add 2 thin straps 180* apart from each other on the joint to increase strength. I still think they are a very viable solution.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 07:46 AM   #3
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It should be just fine ,it is done all the time.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 07:52 AM   #4
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i don't have any experience with them but i would think if they are welded properly they shouldn't fail.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 08:02 AM   #5
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With My Luck I Wouldn't Get A Second Chance. I'm Not Ready To Die.MAYBE I BETTER JUST PAY SOMONE TO THREAD THE ROD FOR ME
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Old February 6th, 2009, 08:34 AM   #6
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JCR sells it by the inch...
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=S6

it costs more but that includes it already taped.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 09:28 AM   #7
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I like tapping the material directly. If you want to do inserts I can TIG them in for you so you'll have a better joint than a MIG bead.

I have a few common taps too if you would rather do that.

I'm not too far from you, let me know if you are interested.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 03:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodapop View Post
I've had a weld in bung fail at the weld. I do think that this is related to flat towing though. If I had to do it all over again, i think I'd go with threading the rod however I think weld in bungs are a good choice too. When i reweld this bung in, I am going to add 2 thin straps 180* apart from each other on the joint to increase strength. I still think they are a very viable solution.
Try a rosette weld 180 degrees on each insert, drill a hole in other words, into the tube and fill with weld penetrating into the insert.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 04:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Try a rosette weld 180 degrees on each insert, drill a hole in other words, into the tube and fill with weld penetrating into the insert.
I was kicking that Idea around too. honestly, I was VERY surprised that this one failed. I'm chalking it up to poor prep on my part.
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Old February 7th, 2009, 08:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrifrocks2005 View Post
JCR sells it by the inch...
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=S6

it costs more but that includes it already taped.
have to check them out

i thought about plug welding the inserts as well.

Last edited by dingle dave; February 7th, 2009 at 08:24 AM.
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Old February 7th, 2009, 09:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Try a rosette weld 180 degrees on each insert, drill a hole in other words, into the tube and fill with weld penetrating into the insert.
never thought about that, awesome idea.
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Old February 8th, 2009, 07:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
I like tapping the material directly. If you want to do inserts I can TIG them in for you so you'll have a better joint than a MIG bead.

I have a few common taps too if you would rather do that.

I'm not too far from you, let me know if you are interested.
DO YOU HAVE THE 7/8-18 LEFT HAND TAP?????????
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Old February 8th, 2009, 12:27 PM   #13
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DO YOU HAVE THE 7/8-18 LEFT HAND TAP?????????
Yes
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Old February 8th, 2009, 12:32 PM   #14
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i used 1.5" .250 wall and a set of 3/4 heims from ruffstuff.. welded the inserts in and we'll see it works.. if you want added insurance.. id go ahead and plug weld the inserts too.
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Old February 8th, 2009, 12:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Try a rosette weld 180 degrees on each insert, drill a hole in other words, into the tube and fill with weld penetrating into the insert.

That is how I did my links way back when (2001) and will do the same on my new links here shortly. Rosette weld at the bottom of the weld in bung to keep from damaging threads. Also V notch where the tube adapter meets the tube. That way you get a good weld joint to work with.
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Old February 8th, 2009, 08:13 PM   #16
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Yes
if you want to make it. pm me. i'll pay you. let me no. might as well help the local guy out, plus i'll save on shipping costs.
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Old February 13th, 2009, 04:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KILLER"B"468 View Post
That is how I did my links way back when (2001) and will do the same on my new links here shortly. Rosette weld at the bottom of the weld in bung to keep from damaging threads. Also V notch where the tube adapter meets the tube. That way you get a good weld joint to work with.
I did the same thing to my trac bar. V notched the end, drill a 1/2" hole for a rosette and TIGed it in. 12,000 miles and no problems.
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Old June 20th, 2009, 06:16 PM   #18
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I made mine out of 1.5" , .25" wall dom and welded the bungs in w/ a 110 mig. I had my ball joints fail at TRRC and the knuckle came off and it ruined the the heim. the bung is still fine....

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthr...=136235&page=2
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Old June 21st, 2009, 04:02 PM   #19
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Mine are welded bungs into a 1.75" .375 wall DOM tie rod and take direct repeated abuse being that my TR is in the stock (not high steer) location to protect my ram, and thus is used for battering. No issues for me.
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