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Old January 24th, 2009, 12:41 AM   #21
Mclovin
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just go Spring under it will help your axle wrap and lower it around 5"
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Old January 24th, 2009, 06:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by scramblerman72 View Post
thats becasue they use stiffer 5 leaves in the front.In the rear, to make it ride smother, they use a lesser spring rate spring, but add a extra one so the ride quality is there but carries enought overall spring rate fo the lighter rear of the jeep and some gear
Cool thanks for the info...
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Old January 24th, 2009, 08:12 PM   #23
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just go Spring under it will help your axle wrap and lower it around 5"

Thought about that, but I like the clearance you get doing a SOA. Also I'm using a 78 Ford Dana60 front axle, So it is almost a bolt in with SOA.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 07:42 PM   #24
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Haven't got much done in the past few weeks due to being busy with work (which is a great thing right now) and life in general getting in the way. But Yesterday I did finally received the STAK 3 speed mini box Tcase for the Jeep after an 11 week wait. Good thing I was not in a hurry.....

Every Jeep needs to have a little BLING BLING on it so here is mine.......


Got the E brake kit with it too, since I'm running rear disk brakes now...Also 1350 CV flanges front and rear.....


Just to show that I have been trying to get stuff done. The Front Dana 60 is now gutted and awaits a good cleaning. before my first try at a gear setup an a ARB locker install...wish me luck...
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Old February 7th, 2009, 06:53 PM   #25
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Good Luck!!!
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Old February 9th, 2009, 07:34 AM   #26
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Thats a purdy tcase...
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Old February 15th, 2009, 07:48 PM   #27
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Think I got the gears setup today. But since it is my first time I'm hoping someone can give me some input if this looks good...or what the @#$%# are you thinking...

Drive Side....


Coast side....
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Old February 15th, 2009, 08:27 PM   #28
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you will get way more flex out of the spring over i used rough country wrangler 3in lift springs ,spring over to clear my 44s,and i fabricated a traction bar that mounts to a cross member on a shakle, i still get great amounts of flex and i have no u joint binding,had this setup for about 5 years now. your jeep looks great cant wait to see it done. nothing better than a jeep on full width one tons.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 08:05 AM   #29
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pattern looks good... make sure you have the right amount of backlash and bearing preload and you should be good to go.... from memory you want about .007" backlash in the ring gear, I wouldn't set them up any tighter. up to about .009" is in the specs from what I remember. I think it's about 20 in-lbs on the pinion without the carrier and then .010" on the carrier bearing preload... (if anyone has the specs in front of them feel free to correct me)
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Old February 16th, 2009, 08:34 AM   #30
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I wish that the guy that did my gears had done that good of a job.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 08:59 AM   #31
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I wish that the guy that did my gears had done that good of a job.
go take a picture of your pattern and compare
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Old February 17th, 2009, 06:30 PM   #32
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looking to get rid of the old rims i may be interested thanks
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Old March 10th, 2009, 09:58 PM   #33
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Ok time for some update photos. Since I don't want this to turn into another of my 2 to 5 year long car projects. I decided that I'm not going to stretch the wheelbase (for now) and run the 35" tires that I have. This way I can get this thing back on the road/trail sooner and figure out what my next mods will be. After all a jeep project is never really done. I just hope to get some use out of before phase two of the build.


Got the Front Dana60 all rebuilt 4.88 gears an a ARB locker...still have to rebuilt the brake calibers..


New axle joints..just used spicer joints as I 'm running the stock 30 spline outers for now...


Installed the new front diff cover..


And now it is rolling high on 35". It does sit higher than I had wanted but it is growing on me. Height to the top of the windsheild is 77 1/2" and from the bottom of the frame rail to the ground is 24 1/2" and 21 1/4" to the bottom of the stock skid plate.



Ran my steering links and had a issue. so I'm looking for feed back if I did the right thing here. My Drag link when mounted to the pitman arm in the stock location hit my tierod bar, so I mounted the the drag link to the top of the pitman arm instead of under. it seams to clear fine now. Will this be fine or am I over looking something?????? Like a major bump steer problem????


Last edited by NitzPixs; March 11th, 2009 at 09:14 AM. Reason: Photo added
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Old March 11th, 2009, 05:48 AM   #34
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Quote:
NitzPixs;1574071]Ran my steering links and had a issue. so I'm looking for feed back if I did the right thing here. My Drag link when mounted to the pitman arm in the stock location hit my tierod bar, so I mounted the the drag link to the top of the pitman arm instead of under. it seams to clear fine now. Will this be fine or am I over looking something?????? Like a major bump steer problem????

if thats a TRE at the pitman/drag interface then flipping it means your tapper is reversed (the parts oppose each other) so youll have very little contact area between the two and it will wobble out in short order. if running it that way solves your problem, you may want to drill out the pitman and go to a hiem on that end.

if you eyeball down one end of the axle, are the tie rod and drag link roughly parallel ? if not you can get some weirdness with clearance, limited travel lock to lock, etc. if the passenger side arm has two holes, then your long term solution should be running the drag link to the arm itself, that may clear up the interferance as well.

youve got quality parts going here and a nice build keep it up !
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Old March 11th, 2009, 08:00 AM   #35
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you can ream the opposite side of the arm 1/2 way down so you basically have the same taper on both sides. make sure it's tight, I've done many this way and none have had problems.... I would do that before a heim unless you make a double shear pitman arm to mount it.
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Old March 11th, 2009, 08:45 AM   #36
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Thanks for the feed back. I'm running Parts Mike High Steer Arms with the single hole on them. Sorry the picture is sideways but they do run parallel like you said. Also I should have said that I had already removed the pitman arm and reamed it for the other direction. So I guess I'm good to go..again thanks.

The TRE nut still looks close in the picture, but we cycled the suspension and it clears. just a bad camera angle.
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Old March 11th, 2009, 08:58 AM   #37
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Looks good... Little bit tall but for a SOA its looks good.
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Old March 11th, 2009, 10:06 AM   #38
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i dont know much about leafs but why are the ubolts on the drivers side different from the pass side. also looks like the ones in the pass side are spreading apart. dunno if it matters just curious if it would cause issues. looks like a nice jeep.
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Old March 11th, 2009, 10:15 AM   #39
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hey!
ur alex`s step dad!
i was over not too long ago checkin out ur jeep, things comin along! i like it!
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Old March 11th, 2009, 04:22 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitzPixs View Post
Thanks for the feed back. I'm running Parts Mike High Steer Arms with the single hole on them. Sorry the picture is sideways but they do run parallel like you said. Also I should have said that I had already removed the pitman arm and reamed it for the other direction. So I guess I'm good to go..again thanks.

The TRE nut still looks close in the picture, but we cycled the suspension and it clears. just a bad camera angle.
my fault for assuming things - i read it like you were mocking it up to test the idea. youre all set - and again, nice work.
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