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Old May 17th, 2006, 06:48 PM   #1
sonic
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Default most lift without other mods?

I have kind of a self imposed delema here. See, I just ordered new rear springs that are a good two inches taller than the ones I have now. Now here in lies my dilema. Do I:

A: Stick the springs in on top of the blocks I have in there right now and order the seven inch springs for the fron to match?

B: Go with my origional plan of cutting down the blocks, welding them to the purches to help with axle rap issue, and keeping the same amount of lift?


Choice A: 12" over all lift

Choice B: 10.5" over all lift

I would also probasbly have to get and indexing ring for the t-case for choice A too huh? Anyone know how much those are going for. Bet I could just make one. HmMMMMmmMMm.
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Old May 17th, 2006, 07:47 PM   #2
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Ive never been a fan of blocks so i say less block the better..
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Old May 17th, 2006, 09:21 PM   #3
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no blocks unless its a show truck and you will never hammer it
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Old May 17th, 2006, 09:25 PM   #4
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blocks work well with light trucks with v6's since they aint got the balls to shoot a block out. but id do another method instead of blocks.
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Old May 17th, 2006, 09:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biohazardbill
no blocks unless its a show truck and you will never hammer it

The blocks have been in it for two years with little problems. The truck gets run very hard as well. In fact the problems I have had have been my fault for not checking things as regularly as I should. A three inch block is not a big deal.
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Old May 17th, 2006, 09:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biohazardbill
no blocks unless its a show truck and you will never hammer it

Rams come from the factory with block in the rear and mine are probably pretty close to 3" anyway. The suspension was designed to have some in the first place. Mine are still there with the 7" springs.


The lift limit on mine was 9-10" before I had to start dealing with other issues. My t-case is only clocked one notch, though. You can probably accomodate the 12" lift if you are willing to clock more and sacrifice breakover by dropping the crossmember. I chose to go the route of buying a new front driveshaft that will solve the problem so I don't have to disturb anything else. The cost of screwing with all the other stuff might come close to that of a reasonably priced driveshaft and you'd still have the same shaft and joints in the end. I'm happy with the decision I made, as it will be a yoke and joint upgrade as well.

Last edited by PävementPounder; May 17th, 2006 at 10:02 PM.
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Old May 18th, 2006, 08:18 PM   #7
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I took a look at it today and found that with only the 7" in the front now my front shaft binds at full droop. I would like to see an indexing ring so I could possibly make one of my own. I have read that the front shaft needs to be longer but I dont see how that would help. Maybe a different style cardian joint would help since that is whats binding. Maybe I can get away with just a new joint? I'll have to talk to some people. I picked it up the extra couple inches on the hoist and I really want to do the other lift now. have you had any problems being pulled over? This will put me way over the limit.
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